Stator wiring

Quiksilver

Registered
About two years or three ago I ran into some electrical issues on the bike. The stator and stock rectifier went out and the connector between the two melted. I changed both and I decided to take the connector off and crimp the two together. Everything seemed to hold up fine. I did my best to make sure everything was sealed and tight. A few weeks ago I noticed the wired going into the rectifier is melted. As far as electronics I have a wideband, GPi and pcv with autotune. There is a plug in the front that provides a 12v access power source and that's what my wideband is connected to. I'm really not sure where the GPi is getting its power from. The pcv is connected straight to the battery. I'm thinking of rewiring the stator with larger wiring. I seen a site that sells mosfet style rectifier like I have and said that he used 12g wiring from stator straight to rectifier. I'm wanting to do this also but M not sure if 12g would fit. I'm also wanting to install a fuse panel and relay to run power to my accessories. My wideband says sensor offline quite frequently and am not sure if I'm having a sensor/gauge issue or not getting enough power to it.

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You are asking for trouble! melted wire means there is something causing high resistance which builds heat. the most common source is wire with too much juice going through it or bad connections. I would use the lowest gauge, highest quality wire you can get between stater and rectifier. Not sure what Amps are but you need to handle at least that much. I use marine wire. Certainly over kill but it is bullet proof and corrosion resistant and you don't need much of it. Also always include maintenance connections. nothing sucks than having to cut all that wiring if you need to work on that area. IMO, solder all connections. there are a bunch of youtube videos on good technique. It's not hard.

get a fuse block for accessories. I recommend something like a Rowe electronic PDM60. This is a digital breaker and if you have a fault you fix it and turn the bike on and it resets itself. no pockets full of fuses. Power blocks are great because the draw from the battery and control power draw by accessories to a max of 60 maps or so. I'm using an Amplink on my current upgrades. it's a BT cell controlled power block, also from Rowe.
 
Thanks! I went with the the element after a short web search. I figured if you had one it would be good enough for me. I might have gone with the amp link if I came across it before hand. The terminals look much cleaner on the amp being they dont hang off the side.
 
Thanks! I went with the the element after a short web search. I figured if you had one it would be good enough for me. I might have gone with the amp link if I came across it before hand. The terminals look much cleaner on the amp being they dont hang off the side.
Yes that is one reason why I switched to the Amplink on the Busa. On the BMW I add remove accessories more as it's a touring bike. Best way to mount the Neutrino is to put it on a base (I used a plastic base on the BMW) and attach the wires to the base so they do not pull on the terminals for the Neutrino. Other than that it was pretty smooth. As with all wiring, it works better if you plan it out and run the wires long then cut them to size on the bike. This is the diagram I did for the PDM60 - planning pays of big with this stuff.

PDM60 Wiring Diagram.jpg
 
Yes that is one reason why I switched to the Amplink on the Busa. On the BMW I add remove accessories more as it's a touring bike. Best way to mount the Neutrino is to put it on a base (I used a plastic base on the BMW) and attach the wires to the base so they do not pull on the terminals for the Neutrino. Other than that it was pretty smooth. As with all wiring, it works better if you plan it out and run the wires long then cut them to size on the bike. This is the diagram I did for the PDM60 - planning pays of big with this stuff.

View attachment 1600060
I love how you bring your blueprinting skills to the table!! Your a wise man!
 
Yes that is one reason why I switched to the Amplink on the Busa. On the BMW I add remove accessories more as it's a touring bike. Best way to mount the Neutrino is to put it on a base (I used a plastic base on the BMW) and attach the wires to the base so they do not pull on the terminals for the Neutrino. Other than that it was pretty smooth. As with all wiring, it works better if you plan it out and run the wires long then cut them to size on the bike. This is the diagram I did for the PDM60 - planning pays of big with this stuff.

View attachment 1600060
Arch you are the man! I appreciate the diagram and knowledge. I have minor wiring and soldering skills but I really do enjoy the planning and execution involved, it is my wusahh next to riding. I'm glad you brought up the base for the neutrino, I had planned on doing this but did not think to anchor the wires to the base. I'm not entirely sure on where I will mount but I'm thinking in the trunk towards the back will be the best spot. I was also wanting to relocate the power commander in the trunk but would also like it to be towards the back if possible. With my hump cut I have a good amount of space for items and that's why I didnt want to mount the PC towards the front of the tunk but the for factor should be a problem if needed to mount it there. I recall you saying that the neutrino has clean grounds, do you know if this would be equivalent to a sensor ground?
 
Arch you are the man! I appreciate the diagram and knowledge. I have minor wiring and soldering skills but I really do enjoy the planning and execution involved, it is my wusahh next to riding. I'm glad you brought up the base for the neutrino, I had planned on doing this but did not think to anchor the wires to the base. I'm not entirely sure on where I will mount but I'm thinking in the trunk towards the back will be the best spot. I was also wanting to relocate the power commander in the trunk but would also like it to be towards the back if possible. With my hump cut I have a good amount of space for items and that's why I didnt want to mount the PC towards the front of the tunk but the for factor should be a problem if needed to mount it there. I recall you saying that the neutrino has clean grounds, do you know if this would be equivalent to a sensor ground?
I don't know how clean. Haven't seen any hard data on this. But I bet they would love to help you out as I think this bike is a perfect place for a lot of what they are doing - they just need some people to take it and run with it. I mount my stuff in the trunk vertically. This gets it out of the way and keeps it up out of water if I get caught in the rain. I try not to mount electronics flat (on the BMW the Neutrino is up on a pedestal).

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@fallenarch has more
electronic gizmos
than most ,
I am sure

he can help
you out . . .










:poke:


#AmplinkOrPDM60 ~ #HeatedGlovesOrGrips ~ #WeakSystem ~ #THEoRg *

 
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