SS or Kevlar brake lines?
- Thread starter Cykill
- Start date
go with what lines you like....there is such little difference in performance with street use it's almost silly.
Probably the single best buy you could make is in a set of EBC HH pads for the fronts. Even with stock lines, the brakes improve drastically.
StreetNTreack (a site sponsor) had/has a decent price ongoing for them.
Probably the single best buy you could make is in a set of EBC HH pads for the fronts. Even with stock lines, the brakes improve drastically.
StreetNTreack (a site sponsor) had/has a decent price ongoing for them.
WWW.NAARDEN.BIZ
Registered
"Kevlar is an Aramid fiber. It is stronger than steel per unit weight, which is one of Kevlars inherant advantages over steel. However, Kevlar is very susceptible to degradation secondary to cummulative UV exposure, and will succumb to rapid mechanical weakening caused by flex cycles. For these reasons, Kevlar is not a good long term brake line material for a street or typical track bike application." someone on another forum ask the same q and this is the response. Ive had SS on my old bike and had no problems, id go with either when i buy some for my new bike
...if you want to improve breaking efficience, then changing only the liners is not going to help you much. I suggest you get some HH rating pads as well
You will not feel a difference between Kevlar and SS, but you will feel a difference going to either from the factory lines. Do the dual full length lines up front instead of the single with the xover. I am doing the new pads this winter.
I'm going with the SS lines this winter too.
We have seen more kevlar lines leak then the stainless steel.
Hey charles, Im wanting some SS lines with chrome banjo's dual full lenth fronts, stock lengths for rear as well and matching clutch, also do you have the Chrome bolts too? Actually now that I think of it. Since im not doing the XOVER in the front will I need a longer bolt at the fluid cylinder since now there are two banjo's instead of one, then do I need a shorter one on the front caliper? Also are the SS lines covered in clear tubing type stuff?
What brand do I want. I hear great things about Galfer and not soo great about goodrich.
Also can you pm a price to me to order.
JD
What brand do I want. I hear great things about Galfer and not soo great about goodrich.
Also can you pm a price to me to order.
JD
I have SS on front and back, Wave Rotors front and back and I went with the EBC HH's front and back I like riding the twisties and the 2 years that I've had them on my busa there has been no problems. I suggest using the double banjo with a bleeder on the master cylinder it makes it easier to get the air bubbles out. Lines and rotors are Galfer but make sure to state whether you have coarse or fine threads. When I got mine it came with fine threads and when I called Galfer the sent me the correct ones without a hitch. Hopes this helps.
I'm no expert on all the technical differences, but after I added steel braided lines to the front and rear- whole new bike. Finally, I get to enter the mythical land of one-fingered braking. Don't even need the rear brake anymore. Coupled with some HH sintered pads, incredible braking power. Don't even need the rear brake anymore.
you will feel a bigger difference switching the lines then the pads. you will feel the best difference if you do both.
I added SS lines by goodridge and HH pads. The difference is more than significant, braking had much better response and feedback. I kept kevlar pads and stock lines in the rear, this is because I can already lock up the rear tire and the need for feedback is not as vital as the front brake's. I installed the dual line SS on the front and it took me a couple hours, the hardest part was the bleeding. I found out later that a trick is to use a syringe to pump the fluid down the line.
bigoltool
Registered
A bit late but I thought I should throw this out.
It is my understanding that all of the brake lines (whether S/S or Kevlar) have a teflon inner line that is actually doing the work. The Jacket on the outside is simply to protect this hard plastic inner line. Some of the "Race only" lines I see out now are touting a smaller bore to increase line pressure. I don't know why this would be a "Race only" requirement?
A side note to us "Larger" riders. On my last bike, when I added preload to my forks to get my sag right, I wound up extending the forks (at rest) to the point that I felt that my S/S brake lines were under tension. In a Wheelie situation this scared me. So I had to extend the upper line on that setup. So whatever lines you get, make certain they are the right length for your mods (springs, bar risers etc.)
It is my understanding that all of the brake lines (whether S/S or Kevlar) have a teflon inner line that is actually doing the work. The Jacket on the outside is simply to protect this hard plastic inner line. Some of the "Race only" lines I see out now are touting a smaller bore to increase line pressure. I don't know why this would be a "Race only" requirement?
A side note to us "Larger" riders. On my last bike, when I added preload to my forks to get my sag right, I wound up extending the forks (at rest) to the point that I felt that my S/S brake lines were under tension. In a Wheelie situation this scared me. So I had to extend the upper line on that setup. So whatever lines you get, make certain they are the right length for your mods (springs, bar risers etc.)
We can have you lines made to any length in any color.
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