SS brake lines

Sam Lin

Hi, I'm new to bikes, but my dad just got a new '03 Hayabusa, and I'm modding it some for him. I've dug through tons of old posts on here, and the one mod I'm still not sure on is Stainless Steel brake lines, specifically which to get.

I read a post that said the Goodridge front SS lines were 2 separate lines, elimininating the crossover line. Is that unique to Goodridge, or would the Galfer lines give the same results? I assume, based on car experience, that the front lines are the most important mod. Is there *really* a benefit to going to SS lines for rear brake when it's already easily locked up, or to SS lines for clutch, which really doesn't see much line pressure?

Thanks a lot, I've already learned a bunch reading through at least 5 pages of posts in most every section of the forums - once I get this and a question about frame sliders finalized, I'll post some pics of all the mods and a list.

Hi Sam,

Welcome to the board. You ask some great questions. The clutch is not worthy of stainless. People so it to match the brake side look. There is no preformance gain at all there.

I didn't replace the rear. I left it stock. The rear brake is just about worthless when using the fronts really hard. We have enough front rotor to loop the bike forward. It is sufficient for trail braking if you find it neccesary. Maybe there is some weight savings with -2 lines in back. Smaller diameter means less stainless and less oil. And that is UNsprung weight.

The fronts are where stainless excels. Galfer and Goodrige are both top quality. And both are two line systems. I used Galfer and they are good. The best suggestion is to make sure the double banjo bolt for the master cylinder has a bleeder valve at the end of it. This is where the air rises to from in the line. You'll never get all of the air out of the banjos without it.The air in the calipers comes out of the lower bleed valves. Speed bleeders will save you a lot of trouble and time for $12-$15. I think they are 6mm - the smaller ones. 8mm are too big.

Goodrige also has Kevlar lines which may be lighter yet and I saw carbon lines on-line two days ago. Can't remember where though.

One last thing is that DOT 5.0 fluid is not to be used on our bikes. This type will eat up the seals and cause brake failure. DOT 4 and DOT 5.1 is compatable. Both are close in performance/spec but 4 costs 1/3 as much since 5.1 is synthetic.
Another thing I remembered from the install is to make sure the crimped-on end fittings don't touch when you torque the Banjo bolt. I put the straight tubes to the top and the bent tubes on bottom. If you line up the hoses at the master like this they will touch and cause a side load on the seal washers. It will either break the end off the hose or cause leaks. It is a force the tubes are not designed to have. I staggered mine a couple of degrees radially to provide space.

The bottom line is that I had clearance until the bolt was torqued. So after you torque the banjo, make sure you can see some light between them or enough space to slip a piece of paper between.
Thanks a lot for the info - does the double banjo bolt with bleeder valve come with both the Goodridge and Galfer setups? If so, I'm pretty well set on getting the Galfer front kit. If not, where can I find a double banjo bolt with bleeder separately? Just thought of this though - if air in the line is an issue, can't you unbolt the calipers after the lines are attached, thread them up and hold them above the master cylinder, then bleed, and then lower and reattach them?

Any recommended sources? I've got the brake lines, Speedbleeders, Powerbronze "Airflow" windshield, and some sort of frame slider left to order. Right now am planning on going through - tried to order today but their credit card system is down for a few days.


Edit: oh yeah, and a source for SpeedBleeders would be nice if I could get all of that stuff together, otherwise I can get them straight from Speedbleeders. I've run them on my cars for a long time, didn't even think about using them on the motorcycle - thanks!
That technique won't work even though you are thinkng about the problem correctly. As soon as you get the bubbles out and lower the lines to reattach them to the calipers, the oil will run out and air will back in. Before you can tighten up the lower banjoes, the bubbles will be back up in the upper banjo.

My Galfers came with a bleeder type double banjo bolt. They are available seperately from various websites if your lines don't have them. Speed bleeders on the calipers are the hot ticket.