Son of a....

BigBadDodge

Registered
Took my newly put back together bike to work today, had this little ticking noise i've been trying to track down on the front end, get to work and try looking with the light on my phone (430am:banghead:) Cant see anything that would be ticking but do see oil on the throttle side lower fork tube, checked it out after work and sure enough its leaking and pretty decent, enough to put fluid down onto the wheel and tire.

So needless to say the ride home was extremely careful and up right to keep from catching any of that oil. Now question is what all do i need to replace, i've heard i dont need to take the cartridge out? Also best advice for doing this without a front stand?

wondering if it wouldnt be easier just taking the forks into the dealer and having them do em, i dont trust taking the bike in there, is it worth pieceing together the diy setup with the pipe and threaded rod. Very mechanically inclined just never got into the forks:whistle: Whats a rough estimate on them doing forks?

Also the ticking i found the throttle side brake pads chattering a bit, gonna put some more lube on the backing plates when i take it apart. Luckily its supposed to rain through the weekend.
 
Fork seals need replaced.

And just what do you mean by "lube" on the backing plates?? They are supposed to go in with nothing on them.......
 
Forks are easy, just go by the manual and you'll be fine. The only special tool you really need(other than the one you mentioned) is a piece of round bar stock tapped to M10x1. You need it to thread on to the center rod to pull it up(a sliding T handle through the top helps), slide in a thin plate to hold it there, and screw the fork cap back on.
Make the tools for a few bucks, and then see how you get ripped by the dealer for an easy job.:beerchug:
 
Could be why they're making noise then:laugh: i dont think i put any grease between the back of the pad and caliper, its been awhile
 
Talk to Charlie "TwoBrothersBusa" he can guide you through the intire process without all the fancy or home made tools.

Don't put any lubricant in or around your brake calipers. It will only attract grit and brake dust and act like sand paper. Bad Idea!
 
If brakes sqeak that's the first thing I do. A little dab of brake grease on all metal to metal. That said I don't think I've ever used it on motorcycles just car and truck brakes.
 
I have never dug into a sportbike style of shock. If its like Harley Davidsons then it is simple and you should be fine.
 
This guy can do em after a few cocktails at 11pm at the bash, Im sure you can handle em. Id just weight the time and effort vs the ease of bringin to the shop.

Oh and John, seals still working great:thumbsup:

Phones stupid again, try pics again later...
 
Last year I followed the guide I found on the forums. I made the tool, followed instruction and was done in about 1.5 hours. First one took about 45, because I keep going back and double checking... One more thing, make sure you get them empty... That fluid likes to come out slow.


1ibandit
88 ZL1000, 07 KaBusa
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
Sent twobrothers a pm, so by changing viscosity of the fluid you can firm/soften up the forks? Cause i would like to quit coming down on my fender with the nose:laugh::whistle:
 
https://www.hayabusa.org/forum/maintenance-do-yourself/57010-fork-service-how-3.html
Post#51 There's a link to a PDF file, shows you what you're asking for.
It's really no different than what's in the service manual though.
You work on your bike with MC Mustang, he can't show you how?
Forks seem to scare alot of people, but they are very easy.

Yes they are not bad at all, intimidating at first but once you have done it once you will ask yourslef what the hell was I scared of?
 
You will probably need to change the brake pads also, I noticed that you said the noise from the brakes was coming from the same side as the fork was leaking on. The pads probably have fork oil on them.
 
If brakes sqeak that's the first thing I do. A little dab of brake grease on all metal to metal. That said I don't think I've ever used it on motorcycles just car and truck brakes.
I'm not saying what you suggest won't work, but getting grease anywhere near the brake pads just sounds like a terrible idea. A better choice is CRC Disc Brake Quiet, which (I think) is a high-temp silicone. Cheap, works great, available in any auto parts store, and a single bottle will last you for years.
Amazon.com: CRC 05016 Disc Brake Quiet: Automotive
 
I'm not saying what you suggest won't work, but getting grease anywhere near the brake pads just sounds like a terrible idea. A better choice is CRC Disc Brake Quiet, which (I think) is a high-temp silicone. Cheap, works great, available in any auto parts store, and a single bottle will last you for years.
Amazon.com: CRC 05016 Disc Brake Quiet: Automotive

Thats the stuff i was talking about

twobrothers has a pretty kick ass write up, gonna give her a go:thumbsup:
 
Got all the seals minus the upper o-rings which are on order incase mine come out in pieces, everythings loosened and ready to pull. Gonna get her in the air when i get home and yank em :thumbsup:

For those thinking of doing em, twobrothersbusa's write up simplifies the hell outta the procedure

https://www.hayabusa.org/forum/general-bike-related-topics/147920-another-run-fork-seals.html

:rofl:But he leaves out the best part, compressing the spring for removal, and again for assembly. Everything just doesn't fall out when you take the fork caps off.:laugh:
 
Not sure what you mean by this. If you loosen the top cap while the fork is still on the bike, then remove the 8 mm allen bolt on the bottom (once the fork is off the bike) they most certainly do fall apart. Nothing needs compressed to reassemble since you never take apart the cartridge.

:rofl:But he leaves out the best part, compressing the spring for removal, and again for assembly. Everything just doesn't fall out when you take the fork caps off.:laugh:

ForkSeals013.jpg
 
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