Slippage

Haymanel

Registered
I own a 2004 busa and have nearly 4000 miles on the bike and at my last oil change I used fully synthetic oil and found that my bike couldn't take any power without slipping. I have heard a lot of bad things about synthetic oil and am hoping there is a fix I can try. any into would be great.
 
which synthetic? there's one with friction improvers
which are a no-no when it comes to clutches.
 
I own a 2004 busa and have nearly 4000 miles on the bike and at my last oil change I used fully synthetic oil and found that my bike couldn't take any power without slipping. I have heard a lot of bad things about synthetic oil and am hoping there is a fix I can try. any into would be great.
Which oil did you use ?

Redline has "one" of the highest C/O's of friction and has never been a problem with that oil in a Busa . Engines with alot more power than stock sometimes need higher clutch spring pressure .

Usually the clutch is junk if they slip " stock engine " after switching to a more friction modified oil . Just change back to what you were using for the quick fix .

Again though , what brand , viscosity did you use ?
 
If you went ahead and got some bad advice and used an Automotive synthetic it may be loaded with "MOLY". Very bad stuff for a Wet Clutch.

Also, be certain your not accidentally resting some weight on the clutch with your fingers, had a busa a few weeks ago in the shop because the customer was certain his clutch was bad. There was nothing I could do to make that clutch slip. Turns out if you just apply a few ounces of pressure to the clutch under power it will slip pretty easy.

Modern Synthetics ROCK. Just make certain your using a bike specific synthetic and go the distance. Don't Mickey mouse around with Blends and Semi-Synthetics your just wasting money without any benefit. Go to a Full Ester Based Synthetic From like Silkolene, Motul, Etc. They are expensive, but they are truly Synthetic and work wonders on your tranny.

Good news is that unless your clutch is just fried from abuse before you changed your oil, you should be able to just drain your oil, replace it with a motorcycle specific Dino or Synthetic and you should be good to go. Assuming of course that it was friction modifiers in your oil causing problems.



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If you wnet ahead and got some bad advice and used an Automotive synthetic it may be loaded with "MOLY". very bad stuff for a Wet Clutch.

Also, be certain your not accidentaly resting some weight on the clutch with your fingers, had a busa a few weeks ago in the shop becuase the customer was certain his clutch was bad. There was nothing I could do to make that clutch slip. Turns out if you just apply a few ounces of pressure to the clutch under power it will slip pretty easy.

Modern Synthetics ROCK. Just make certain your using a bike specific synthetic and go the distance. Don't Mickey mouse around with Blends and Semi-Synthetics your just wasting money without any benefit. Go to a Full Ester Based Synthetic From like Silkolene, Motul, Etc. They are expensive, but they are truly Synthetic and work wonders on your tranny.

Good news is that unless your clutch is just fried from abuse before you changed your oil, you should be able to just drain your oil, replace it with a motorcycle specific Dino or Synthetic and you should be good to go. Assuming of course that it was friction modifiers in your oil causing problems.
Listen to the Man! He knows what he's talking about!
 
Just wish I could spell it...
Molybdenum Disulphide seems to be the what your speaking of but it's only used in greases and a few gear oils these days . It will fall out of solution/suspension when used in engine oils and is dark grey in color .

The colorless molybdenum diakyl dithiocarbamate which is an oil soluable friction modifier / anti-oxident is used in quite a few JASO MA rated bike oils these days . When you see it in these oils , the primary use of it in the formulated product is ,  as an anti-oxident .

Amsoil 10w-40
Motul E-Tech 100
One of the Silkolenes

and a few others use it . Even the gold cap Extended Performance 15w-50 Mobil may people choose has 70 parts per million of it . It replaced the old red cap Mobil 15w-50 which had the MoDTC in the formula also .

Hope this helps



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Thanks for all of the advice, but I left something else out of the problem. I have strarted noticing what I think is oil on the bottom fairings. The pattern starts at the nose of my bottom fairings and looks like it was blown back in streaks. As for the type of oil, I took the shops advice and went with a brand I can't remember. I even saw it today in another shop. Go figure. It has a yellow or gold cap and is semi sythetic. The drainage of something and the clutch slipping in all gears has me really worried. I am draining it tommarrow and cleaning my clutch plates and running some regular oil through my bike to clean it out. Well, see what happens. I am also going to measure the thickness of the plates and have heard that synthetic can kill the camshaft and if used some companies will not warranty there parts in your bike. Just some thoughts thanks again:O
 
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