Should I install a 16T front sprocket myself?

Juggler

Techie Answer Guy
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I'm not a mechanical idiot, but I wouldn't call myself gifted either, so I don't know if I should install it myself, or have the dealer do it.

I've been quoted from 40-70 bucks. Less if I remove the fairing myself.

Thanks in advance.

--Juggler
 

blas32

Registered
I am not good at that kind of stuff, but I did the front and back with no problems.  Used a 4 ft. piece of pipe on the end of my socket wrench to loosen the nut.  If you have a rear stand, torque wrench, threadlocker and the correct sockets(32mm front/36mm rear) it's a piece of cake.
 

ks-waterbug

Group Buy Guy
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Don't forget the keeper 6mm on the front sprocket....... This is an average do it yourself project! Take your time and everything will come out fine.
 

Doc_Busa

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Personally, I would avoid a 16T front sprocket. But a 43 on the rear and get the same effect without stressing the chain. I would never go DOWN on a front a sprocket, plus, the rear is easy to change.
 

HP Junkie

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pretty easy mod really and cheap too. ive done it with the last 3 bikes and never had a rear stand or any kind of chain failure. just adjust the slack and use a torque wrench.
 

Jace

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or you could just take a file and file down one of the teeth and make it a 16 .....:blush:

uh .....wait scratch that idea

Call a DENTIST about any TEETH questions :laugh:
 

BulletTrain

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pretty easy mod really and cheap too. ive done it with the last 3 bikes and never had a rear stand or any kind of chain failure. just adjust the slack and use a torque wrench.
do you really need a torque wrench to do this?
I'd say so. I'd think it would be fairly critical that you get the sprocket tightened to spec. Some other fasteners might not be as critical but anything in the driveline or suspension should be torqued to specs, IMHO.
 

ks-waterbug

Group Buy Guy
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Its basically a bolt used to keep the bigger bolt from backing out on its own............ And in this case its located in the dead center of the larger nut. I think it uses a piece of steel to prevent the bigger nut from turning. Once you get to this stage it'll all make sense!
 
um, I think you are referring to the "speed sensor"? you may want to have the bike in 1st gear when removing the output shaft nut with the chain on, and maybe fix the rear brake so the tire wont spin, this will freeze the output shaft. remove sensor bolt and sensor, rattle the nut off shaft, romove and replace sprocket, loktite and torque the nut, install sensor, loktite and torque sensor bolt. you may want to DL the service manual its around here somewhere?
 

HP Junkie

Registered
pretty easy mod really and cheap too. ive done it with the last 3 bikes and never had a rear stand or any kind of chain failure. just adjust the slack and use a torque wrench.
do you really need a torque wrench to do this?
I'd say so. I'd think it would be fairly critical that you get the sprocket tightened to spec. Some other fasteners might not be as critical but anything in the driveline or suspension should be torqued to specs, IMHO.
agreed, especially axel nuts.
 

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