Shortening Rear Signals

[OB_falcon fool]

I have mine shorted and have had no trouble with light bulb failure. Just take the lights apart and look study the stem. Now cut about half of it off and cut new slots in the stem for the head of the light to slide back in to. It is hard to describe, but if you take them apart you will see what I am talking about. I left about a 1/4 of rubber on the stalk to act as a cushion between lights and fender. I just looked through my photo album but could not find any pictures that were close up enought for details. I am sure if I did it, you can do it. It just takes a little time and some old fashion whittling. I also shorted my rear fender 5".
Good luck! I am sure you will like the look.

 

[OB_Cisco San Jose]

Starting to look like custom work on Harley's. Did the same for both my Fatboy and Heritage and I even did a dual filiment so that my brakes would work with my blinker unit. Can be done.

 

[OB_Gary Evans]

I shortened mine also but,did so on the bolt end rather than the light end. I removed the molded in hollow bolt from the plastic arm, shortened the arm, redrilled the arm to accept the bolt and epoxyed the bolt in place with J-B Weld. The light housing is now 1/2 inch from the fender.

 

[OB_Busa@11K]

Thanks Gary for the info. When looking at the stock turn sigs, this is the idea I had in mind. I'm assuming the hollow shaft in the rubber piece is threaded on one end (for the attchment nut) and molded into the rubber or plastic on the light end? Is JB welding the only way to attach the stud back after removing the rubber section?

Also, any problems with bulbs going out -- and, do you have a photo? I imagine it looks alot more sanitary that stock.

 

[OB_Busa@11K]

I've heard that its possible to shorten the stock rear turn signals by removing the rubber seciton (which is about 1.5 inches long). Can someone who has done this give some details on the mod? Or maybe point to a websight that has details/photos. Someone also mentioned that doing this may cause excessive vibration in the bulbs which could burn out quickly due to the vibrations. Maybe just a thin (1/4") rubber washer between the shortened signal and fender would help. Anyone have experience with this?

 

[OB_Gary Evans]

Busa@11k
The only mod I may have made to the bolt was the grind off some of the flange area to make it easier to press into the plastic. You want it to be a tight fit even through its epoxyed. I've used J-B Weld before with excellant results. No bulb problem yet. No pics!

 

[OB_falcon fool]

no, need to Jb weld anything...just cut off the part of the stem that is in the light head whittle down the remainder, take a dremel tool and cut slots in it for the head to slide back down and put the clip that hold the head back on( horse shoe type clip that fits in a slop in the rubber) and there you have it. The plastic part of the head is now about 1/8-1/4 inch from my fender.

 

[OB_byhalia]

The "total stalk remove" has been done as well.

Take an open up signal assembly with you to Home Depot and match approximately a quarter size flat washer for the "slotted area", then add flat head screw to attach to fender. Use same size washer for fender attach as well. Also drill holes in washers for your wires to run through and you have "totally flush" signals that retain the factory illumination. Those fat signals look nice hugged up to fender/slimming down the rear as we prefer. None of that dim turn signal action from aftermarket, plus no bulb defection.

Excellent idea on the JB Weld use.