Secondaries, stage 2 recommended

tcbusa

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Hey guys Im going to be getting my busa motor built up. I've been running a Hahn stage 1 for 12k and the motor is pretty much done so it's going to be overhauled. Low comp, studs, maybe pistons. I want to aim for 350 maybe 400hp. What do u all recommend? I want to
keep the Hahn 16g. I was looking towards the port fueler looks clean. Also what about water injection? Thanks in advance
 
:bump: for ya

I am not a turbo or tech guy or criticizing the bike.. mostly curious but is 12K what a turbo bike supposed to last???

What kind of riding did you do with it full racing drag/LSR ??? or racing an street riding ??? mostly street riding???

I am sure the guru's be here soon with something for ya:thumbsup:
 
I would invest in a set up rods over pistons. As far as secondaries. There are lots of options. I'm not a fan of the portfueler because of it's injector location. However I've never used it so my opinion doesn't mean much. I run a megasquirt. It works well.
 
Please help !

I tried to connect to the Megasquirt wiring diagram that is attached, but we injectors do not work, we need to make some modifications to the Megasquirt?
I have installed the appropriate MSQ, but does not work :-(
'm Totally confused, all other work on my bike was finished, only the secondary injectors does not start !?
Is it maybe a problem as I have MS2 processor?
:-(:-(:-(
Thanks much in advance.

MS.jpg


MS_wiring.jpg
 
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Rods over piston ( for over 300hp) ..both is a plus.
HD output shaft
billet clutch basket
studs
spacer
65 springs
can adjuster gears
light clean up of the head
Deff need secondaries for over 280hp.
Cut tranny
Do it all and do it right while your inthere. THats why I chose to wait unitl next winter for motor.:beerchug:
 
Hey guys Im going to be getting my busa motor built up. I've been running a Hahn stage 1 for 12k and the motor is pretty much done so it's going to be overhauled. Low comp, studs, maybe pistons. I want to aim for 350 maybe 400hp. What do u all recommend? I want to
keep the Hahn 16g. I was looking towards the port fueler looks clean. Also what about water injection? Thanks in advance


If you want 400 hp, you are not going to do it with a 16G. Upgrade to the 20G shootout turbo. Your 16G will barely get you to 350 - I'm not saying it won't, just that it will be screaming at that level - backpressure fighting you all the way. Regardless, do an external wastegate modification with a Mitsubishi turbo, it will be much better. Pistons, rods, studs, stronger valve springs - a must. A high output oil pump gear (which also spins the water pump faster), stronger clutch springs, undercut tranny and heavy duty output shaft are strongly recommended. And although the portfueler was a good concept, the big downfall of that setup is the Split Second fuel controller, which does not track correctly on a bike. Getting the fuel right on that box is a crap shoot. Go with secondary injectors with a different controller, like a Microtech, which happens to work well. Water injection will get you to 14-15 pounds boost on pump fuel - Aquamist is the best system we have seen so far.
 
16g doing 400 on 16 lbs (unless you want good gas) it not realistic. the compressor is too small, the hot side A/R is too tight and the wastegate won't likely be able to control. You'll most likely spike to about 18-19psi and settle around 16. you can get a 20g for next to nothing now in days, and many companies offer billet wheels and upgraded center cartredges.
 
I agree with powerhouse, my old hahn kit needed 20 psi or so of boost to make 344 hp.

No way its going to do 400 efficiently imo.
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alot of useful info thanks guys. i think il go with low comp, rods, valve springs and studs. i already have a HD output shaft. im going to stick with the 16g and aim a for low 300hp number. ive been looking into water injection and the good stuff is too spendy for me now. i dont want to waste my time with a cheap unreliable setups. What do u all think about using secondaries, sticking with the 16g turbo and running E85? i have fillup stations here so it would be an option for me.
 
A/f on a gasoline setting will still be wanting the same readings
remember the readings are a number dirived from a 0-5v scale
if reading on an ethanol scale i think 9 is stoich or 2.5v and on a gas scale 14.7 is stoich again 2.5 v
 
A/f on a gasoline setting will still be wanting the same readings
remember the readings are a number dirived from a 0-5v scale
if reading on an ethanol scale i think 9 is stoich or 2.5v and on a gas scale 14.7 is stoich again 2.5 v

An O2 sensor measures O2, has nothing to do with the fuel. You will still be looking at the same data (percentage of oxygen remaining in the exhaust by volume) so you do not need to look for a specific voltage or anything like that. With ethanol you want to run the engine with an A/F ratio of 8.5:1 to 9:1 for best efficiency. Same rules as gasoline apply to ethanol (richer is safer). With ethanol, you want to run an effective compression ratio of aprox. 18-20:1, if you are running 9:1 turbo pistons or the like, it would take a huge amount of boost (think 40+lbs) to make an effective ratio of 20:1. That's why most alcohol dragsters (what I used to run) run naturally aspirated with 17:1 and higher compression. It is just easier to set up. At lower compression/boost with ethanol the vehicle will run like crap.
 
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