right side rotor and brake removel

pwall97

Banned
how to i remove the right side brake rotors and calipers and use the one on the left side only???so i need to get a longer brake line or something????
 
Get a set of braided brake hoses and use only one of them. Use the original single banjo bolt at the master cylinder instead of a double that will come with a set.

Or maybe a sponsor on here will sell you just one hose on it's own. Don't worry more will chime in as the USA wakes up.:poke:
 
ummm what are you doing to change the brakes m/c ratio? To go to a single front caliper (which has less displacement than duals) you need to swap to a single line and banjo fitting and the master cylinder should be swapped as well to compensate. If you only swap the brake line your brakes will be really stiff when you yank the brake lever.
 
You can also remove one rotor without buying new brake lines if you are on a budget. Remove right rotor and caliper like mentioned then take banjo bolt from the caliper and replace the banjo bolt in the master cylinder with the shorter bolt while removing the right side brake line. Then make sure you bleed your lines. You can always upgrade to stainless lines later.
 
Why if I may ask, would you want your braking ability reduced by 50%? :dunno:
 
Why if I may ask, would you want your braking ability reduced by 50%? :dunno:

It helps with Drag racing. Reduces rotating mass. You would think it reduces braking by 50% but when riding it actually has the opposite feel. This is what happens. Now you have all the fluid from the master cylinder going to one caliper so it actually stops faster with less pull on the brake handle(it actually is very touchy). The problem is the rotor heats up much faster. So for drag racing it is fine but for canyons or road racing it is terrible if you are on the brakes alot.
 
So pwall97, you Drag Racing the bike or do you have another reason for going to a single front rotor/caliper?

Dont mean to be too nosey...
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Now you have all the fluid from the master cylinder going to one caliper ... (it actually is very touchy).

This is exactly the reason why someone should swap m/c when going to a single rotor setup. It's an all to common mistake to stay with the same m/c. You loose all feel to your braking system.
Granted, for drag race only apps it really doesn't matter how the brakes feel.
 
This is exactly the reason why someone should swap m/c when going to a single rotor setup. It's an all to common mistake to stay with the same m/c. You loose all feel to your braking system.
Granted, for drag race only apps it really doesn't matter how the brakes feel.

Agree if doing alot of street riding. :thumbsup:
 
am putting on a spinner kit and i will like for the right side to be clean so when it is lited up at night u can see it better...
 
what kind of master cyclinder do i get and what size stainless steel lines do i get???thanks everone for all the info..
 
It helps with Drag racing. Reduces rotating mass. You would think it reduces braking by 50% but when riding it actually has the opposite feel. This is what happens. Now you have all the fluid from the master cylinder going to one caliper so it actually stops faster with less pull on the brake handle(it actually is very touchy). The problem is the rotor heats up much faster. So for drag racing it is fine but for canyons or road racing it is terrible if you are on the brakes alot.

I'm not sure you are on the right track there bud. Please explain how increasing the volume of fluid to a single caliper will increase the pressure which is the only way to increase braking on a rotor?
 
I'm not sure you are on the right track there bud. Please explain how increasing the volume of fluid to a single caliper will increase the pressure which is the only way to increase braking on a rotor?

Makes more sense than the Harley theory that the front brake will simple "getcha killed".:laugh:
 
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