Replacing oil pan, anything to lookout for?

[NuckaMan]

Well, my dumbass must have over-torqued the drain hole thread and now have to replace it.

Looking at it, doesn't look to difficult, just a PIA and little PO'ed at myself for having to even do it.

Question is, to those who have gone there....any tips or advice?

While I'm at it, I'm gonna do the PAIR valve removal to hopefully cure the back-firing on cold days.

BTW...anyone have a source for a Gen 1 Oil Pan? ebay is looking dry right now.

 

[teddypenn]

dont beat yourself up bro. ive done the same thing, and its a pretty simple and straight forward replacement. just time consuming and the worste part is getting the headers off. just take your time and you'll be ok. last time i did it i didnt tighten all the pan bolts up and had to remove the headers just to get to the bolts up front on the pan to tighten em up right. good luck and take your time to double check everything

 

[Ludicrous Speed]

You can always retap it, or use one of those self tapping drain plugs

 

[berryman]

Or you can start chocking up on your wrench and grab it closer the the bolt to tighten it up, it will never happen again. I'll shut up now.

 

[Runin2nite]

I would retap it... you might be able to slip a Heli-coil in there to?

 

[turbobusa2000]

That sucks man too bad.

 

[busa-saga]

been there done that, and heli coiled it! solved

 

[071300r]

it tried retapping it, I had a shop do it, it did not work out then they offered a heli coil. it was great till the first oil change I pulled out the drain plug and the coil came out with it. bought a pan I put it in it wasnt too bad. now I am very cautious on tighting that bolt.

 

[twotonevert]

Just changed my oil yesterday, even had a torque wrench on it, but I couldnt bring myself to keep pulling on it until it clicked. Its snug and no leaks, will keep an eye on it for a week or two anyway.

 

[Nicholas]

remember always use a new washer and only about 15 ft-lbs