Replace bearings after pulling?

[ROADTOAD1340]

i personally strongly doubt whether such ceramics are used in motoGP or in the "world super bike class".

I be interested to know the answer to that , both top tier racing classes have teams which usually have pretty healthy budgets , so unless there is something in the rules , I would think there was a good chance they did . You can get ceramic bearing fitments in engines as well . maybe they use them too ?

 

[Klutch556]

Ok guys... Great news! We are changing the bearings per the mechanics recommendation! Lol
He called and asked if I wanted to replace them. He said he could reuse them but suggested I replace.

 

[Bigboy Busa2]

Why would you purchase bearings from Brock. He is not a bearing manufacturer, neither a distributor?

You can get standard stock for close to $4 a bearing and SKF or NSK ceramic for close to $20 each.

In short, if you are not a bearing guy, all you have to do is read the bearing number off the actual bearing, call a SKF dealer and ask him for the ceramic equivalent.

Why pay Brock almost 100% margin, to supply something which may not be stocked for time and conditions as bearing distributors are audited to do?

I said a little something about brocks "margin" a few years ago on here when he had a "sale" and thought I was going to get kicked out and banished for life. Great stuff but you going to pay.

 

[Klutch556]

I said a little something about brocks "margin" a few years ago on here when he had a "sale" and thought I was going to get kicked out and banished for life. Great stuff but you going to pay.

I'm not vendor loyal, but I do always try to support local vendors first if at all possible and Brock is 20 min north of me. my bike is currently in the shop so the parts I order, I need asap because the mechanic is waiting on the parts and brocks has always delivered next day. I have currently had to double order 3 different things from RevZilla and sport bike track gear and rebuy them from brocks because the other places just aren't delivering... like literally... Paid for next day shipping on Aug 2nd for stuff from those two and nothing has shown up yet. But everything from brocks, standard shipping, shows up next day.
I'm aware brocks is only so quick because he's literally in the same county, but the other two are 8 days late at this point. I like rev and sbtg and will keep buying from them.

 

[ottafish]

I said a little something about brocks "margin" a few years ago on here when he had a "sale" and thought I was going to get kicked out and banished for life. Great stuff but you going to pay.

Don't forget the advice of taking an angle grinder to your disc pads..

 

[michael parris heuberger]

Don't forget the advice of taking an angle grinder to your disc pads..

Hi. That is for someone that wants to get the last .001 sec out of there bike. Like me, I did not go with the magnets in the brake pistons that suck the pads away from the rotors [have to pump lever to get breaking] as I will drive my bike on the street. I will push the pads away from the rotors before I make the run for the record {[ I I even get close to one] as I will have over 1 mile to stop. DO NOT DO THIS ON THE STREET MAY CAUSE DEATH ] !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! See now I am covered if someone one does this on the street. I know no one on here will do this,

 

[jellyrug]

I said a little something about brocks "margin" a few years ago on here when he had a "sale" and thought I was going to get kicked out and banished for life. Great stuff but you going to pay.

No criticism towards Brock.

In a similar comparison to buying a bearing from a non bearing vendor, with respect; The guy who has to go to a speciality lighting store to get advice on which 60watt light bulb he needs to replace on his ordinary kitchen light, rather than picking one up at Lowe’s Hardware store for 1/3rd of the price obviously has no idea.

 

[sixpack577]

My friend keeps his '18 gsxr1000r at my house, and I do All the maintenance and any mods or repairs.
MooresMafia in SC flashed the ecu and dyno tuned it a few months ago...amazing job. He was told by them he could get up to 4 hp on the dyno with ceramic bearings.
So, now he wants ceramic wheel bearings. He completely understands rideability vs what paper numbers say, but he is doing step by step mods to see what he gets as he plans to pass 200whp soon.
Probably with a Bazazzz and MR12 tune next(bike a/f was done through ecu, no power commander on it).
Cams after, then who knows(it'll stay NA).
Regardless, he wants ceramic bearings.
The Q4's are done and he's ordering Q3's, and wants me to do ceramic bearings while I have the tires off and can fit the wheels in my press...otherwise he waits until next tire change.
With all the above explained;
Can anyone recommend where to buy ceramic wheel bearings for this bike, by bearing number, from a bearing manufacturer? And is there any way to find the wheel bearing number without physically getting it off of the stock bearings that are in the wheels now?(so they could be ordered before removing the wheels).
Thanks for any info

 

[jellyrug]

My friend keeps his '18 gsxr1000r at my house, and I do All the maintenance and any mods or repairs.
MooresMafia in SC flashed the ecu and dyno tuned it a few months ago...amazing job. He was told by them he could get up to 4 hp on the dyno with ceramic bearings.
So, now he wants ceramic wheel bearings. He completely understands rideability vs what paper numbers say, but he is doing step by step mods to see what he gets as he plans to pass 200whp soon.
Probably with a Bazazzz and MR12 tune next(bike a/f was done through ecu, no power commander on it).
Cams after, then who knows(it'll stay NA).
Regardless, he wants ceramic bearings.
The Q4's are done and he's ordering Q3's, and wants me to do ceramic bearings while I have the tires off and can fit the wheels in my press...otherwise he waits until next tire change.
With all the above explained;
Can anyone recommend where to buy ceramic wheel bearings for this bike, by bearing number, from a bearing manufacturer? And is there any way to find the wheel bearing number without physically getting it off of the stock bearings that are in the wheels now?(so they could be ordered before removing the wheels).
Thanks for any info

Cannot help you with the bearing sizes, you will need seals as well.

Go to Google Maps, enter “bearing supplier” and even if you live in the boonies, one will be within an hour driving distance.

Good luck with the 4hp….

 

[Bumblebee]

My friend keeps his '18 gsxr1000r at my house, and I do All the maintenance and any mods or repairs.
MooresMafia in SC flashed the ecu and dyno tuned it a few months ago...amazing job. He was told by them he could get up to 4 hp on the dyno with ceramic bearings.
So, now he wants ceramic wheel bearings. He completely understands rideability vs what paper numbers say, but he is doing step by step mods to see what he gets as he plans to pass 200whp soon.
Probably with a Bazazzz and MR12 tune next(bike a/f was done through ecu, no power commander on it).
Cams after, then who knows(it'll stay NA).
Regardless, he wants ceramic bearings.
The Q4's are done and he's ordering Q3's, and wants me to do ceramic bearings while I have the tires off and can fit the wheels in my press...otherwise he waits until next tire change.
With all the above explained;
Can anyone recommend where to buy ceramic wheel bearings for this bike, by bearing number, from a bearing manufacturer? And is there any way to find the wheel bearing number without physically getting it off of the stock bearings that are in the wheels now?(so they could be ordered before removing the wheels).
Thanks for any info

Should be able to get the bearing sizes from a dealership as they will have that info.

 

[jellyrug]

My friend keeps his '18 gsxr1000r at my house, and I do All the maintenance and any mods or repairs.
MooresMafia in SC flashed the ecu and dyno tuned it a few months ago...amazing job. He was told by them he could get up to 4 hp on the dyno with ceramic bearings.
So, now he wants ceramic wheel bearings. He completely understands rideability vs what paper numbers say, but he is doing step by step mods to see what he gets as he plans to pass 200whp soon.
Probably with a Bazazzz and MR12 tune next(bike a/f was done through ecu, no power commander on it).
Cams after, then who knows(it'll stay NA).
Regardless, he wants ceramic bearings.
The Q4's are done and he's ordering Q3's, and wants me to do ceramic bearings while I have the tires off and can fit the wheels in my press...otherwise he waits until next tire change.
With all the above explained;
Can anyone recommend where to buy ceramic wheel bearings for this bike, by bearing number, from a bearing manufacturer? And is there any way to find the wheel bearing number without physically getting it off of the stock bearings that are in the wheels now?(so they could be ordered before removing the wheels).
Thanks for any info

I was going to do these calculations for you, but without the bearing hub sizes, the bearing itself, there is too much guessing. If you twist my arm, I will do it based on guesses.

Think about this though...

If the stock wheel bearings are robbing you of 4hp, that is equal to 2,983 watts. A hair dryer is normally around 700 watts. So it means those five bearings (3 rear 2 front) are soaking up more than four times the heat of a hair dryer. After a few minutes, the grease in those bearings will be cooking, because the heat capacity of grease is around 1.6kJ/kg K whereas the aluminum hub only has a specific heat capacity of around 0.9kJ/kg K. So that grease will absorb heat faster than the actual wheel hub.

It follows that those bearing will self destruct in a short time period and if you get off your bike, you would not be able to touch the center of the wheel without getting burned.

All respect to Moore Mafia, these guys are not educated trained automotive Engineers, they are tinkerers and be careful with what they tell you. The next thing will an uneducated person trying to prove this wrong, with a back wheel dyno test. That is pretty inaccurate. You can probably get more than 4hp, by just increasing the back tyre pressure to around 60psi. There is a reason why we as manufacturers test crank hp. Simply by increasing the strap tension holding the bike on the dyno, will actually change the numbers.

 

[sixpack577]

Should be able to get the bearing sizes from a dealership as they will have that info.

......lmao
maybe where you live

 

[Bumblebee]

......lmao
maybe where you live

I know if I go into our dealer and ask them to look up the sizes for the bearing, they will....I've done if for my other bikes. But of course I also ordered the bearings and seals from them too.

 

[sixpack577]

I was going to do these calculations for you, but without the bearing hub sizes, the bearing itself, there is too much guessing. If you twist my arm, I will do it based on guesses.

Think about this though...

If the stock wheel bearings are robbing you of 4hp, that is equal to 2,983 watts. A hair dryer is normally around 700 watts. So it means those five bearings (3 rear 2 front) are soaking up more than four times the heat of a hair dryer. After a few minutes, the grease in those bearings will be cooking, because the heat capacity of grease is around 1.6kJ/kg K whereas the aluminum hub only has a specific heat capacity of around 0.9kJ/kg K. So that grease will absorb heat faster than the actual wheel hub.

It follows that those bearing will self destruct in a short time period and if you get off your bike, you would not be able to touch the center of the wheel without getting burned.

All respect to Moore Mafia, these guys are not educated trained automotive Engineers, they are tinkerers and be careful with what they tell you. The next thing will an uneducated person trying to prove this wrong, with a back wheel dyno test. That is pretty inaccurate. You can probably get more than 4hp, by just increasing the back tyre pressure to around 60psi. There is a reason why we as manufacturers test crank hp. Simply by increasing the strap tension holding the bike on the dyno, will actually change the numbers.

I can agree with all of that.
I have had my belifes in ceramic bearings in the past, but have also seen data for years too.
Lab vs real world arguments exhist, but I can't debate that.
Regardless, the dyno thing I do get.
4 hp can be "made" easily with tire pressure(just as a sticky tire can rob a little), or just the conditions of the day or individual bike.
I think he's sold on them because the dyno tune and ecu flash(with pipe and stacks) literally is phenomenal.
From decades of sportbikes, I have no doubt he gained the 40hp claimed, from a sick slug that wouldn't break 100mph til redline 3rd gear...now it'll hit the rev limiter at 107mph in 1st(speedo, and over revved but quick reference to the improvement).
Anyway, I will pass the info and see what he wants to do.
I say buy tires now(as he's wanting to buy bearings first), that way I can keep riding, lmao, as the rear is flat right now.
Thanks for the info

 

[jellyrug]

I know if I go into our dealer and ask them to look up the sizes for the bearing, they will....I've done if for my other bikes. But of course I also ordered the bearings and seals from them too.

My guess is they will have no idea, unless they are willing to go and draw their stock OEM bearings from the shelf and measure them, or look at the numbers on the actual bearings. There is a chart somewhere here on the forum with all the Gen 1 wheel bearing sizes, as well as the seals. I don't know about the Gen 2, or the 1000 gixxer.

 

[Bumblebee]

My guess is they will have no idea, unless they are willing to go and draw their stock OEM bearings from the shelf and measure them, or look at the numbers on the actual bearings. There is a chart somewhere here on the forum with all the Gen 1 wheel bearing sizes, as well as the seals. I don't know about the Gen 2, or the 1000 gixxer.

Don't know personally, they must have a chart or it tells them in their ordering program. All I know is I sent to the dealer and got the bearings and seals for my bike without taking the old bearings in with me...

That is the only alternative is to take out the bearings and get the number off them but even if you go to a bearing outlet, you will still need the specific seals.

I buy bearings for my power equipment (lawn tractor, snow-blower) a few times and take the old bearing with me for those...we have a bearing outlet not far from me.

 

[sixpack577]

I talked to him and sent him a screen shot of post#31.
He said he values my opinion and appreciates an engineers input.
So he's not going to buy them.
I think if I put BST's on a bike I'de gamble the ceramic bearings, otherwise I'de leave it be.
Thank you @jellyrug

 

[jellyrug]

Don't know personally, they must have a chart or it tells them in their ordering program. All I know is I sent to the dealer and got the bearings and seals for my bike without taking the old bearings in with me...

That is the only alternative is to take out the bearings and get the number off them but even if you go to a bearing outlet, you will still need the specific seals.

I buy bearings for my power equipment (lawn tractor, snow-blower) a few times and take the old bearing with me for those...we have a bearing outlet not far from me.

Sigh, I need to go play somewhere else.

Bearing vendors always stock seals and bearings, plus more.

Extremely unlikely that a Suzuki dealer will purchase a part outside of the dealer support network, those bearings from the dealer will have Suzuki Part numbers on them and will be part of the OEM inventory.

 

[Bumblebee]

Sigh, I need to go play somewhere else.



View attachment 1639351

....and why might that be?

 

[jellyrug]

....and why might that be?

LOL, probably a lack of empathy on my part. See you changed your reply a bit?
No worries, we all good. Before you changed your reply, yes there are a lot of variables on a non manufacturer's dyno, especially if it is measured from the rear wheel.

For new development, or quality control, we test at the crank in a controlled conditioned environment, so the exact conditions are always a constant based on NTP. I am retired, but say we, as I am still involved and spent a great part of my career with one of the major manufacturers. I have to be careful, but they are normally pretty close to the top of list with F1.

So, in short, it gets interesting when I see what "professional tuners" on Haybusas sometimes claim and how folks believe in what they read on the internet.