Refrigerator Repair




UncleSteve

Gear good - roadrash bad
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Anyone know how repair a refrigerator?
Side by side and the freezer is fine, the fridge side is not getting cool enough.

:banghead::banghead::banghead:
 

NickSully

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Most side by sides that I have seen get the cold air from the freezer side through a damper door. There maybe more than one damper door but make sure they are operating properly and nothing is blocking them and make sure they are not frozen over if it's a freezer with no auto defrost setting. I believe you can set the refrigerator to its coldest setting and you should be able to watch the damper doors open. If it doesn't open and you don't hear the motor trying to open it you could have a bad thermostat which may or may not be directly part of the damper door.

That's about all I know about them. I'm sure someone with more knowledge will be chiming in shortly.
 

UncleSteve

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thanks, that is part of the problem, the freezer is icing up and blocking the pass through. I think the defrost for the freezer is not working .
I don't know what part would be bad. I assume there is a defrost element (part) or thermostat problem.
I have defrosted the freezer several times and it works fine for a week or so.
It is a Genaire frig if anyone else can help
 

Red05

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Check the coils at the very bottom for dirt and dust accumulation, especially in the lower rear area. Most fridges have a grille type panel for air inlet. The grooves in it may be clogged with dirt. If they are fairly dirty, pull it off and chances are the area around the fan that blows on the coils will be covered in dirt also. Clean it all very well with a brush and a vacuum cleaner...you'd be surprised what a diffeence it can make.
 

markiee43

Registered
if its a GE model replace the mother board in the back and that will fix it as long as the frezzer side is cold about a $100 part and 10 mins to replace it :beerchug:
 

BigBSBusa

Comin' back stronger than ever!
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Check the coils at the very bottom for dirt and dust accumulation, especially in the lower rear area. Most fridges have a grille type panel for air inlet. The grooves in it may be clogged with dirt. If they are fairly dirty, pull it off and chances are the area around the fan that blows on the coils will be covered in dirt also. Clean it all very well with a brush and a vacuum cleaner...you'd be surprised what a diffeence it can make.
Had to do that to mine a couple of months ago. Works great now.
 

NickSully

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I believe on Jenn-Air the heating element and heating thermostat is one unit and it's located on the bottom of the freezer side. If cleaning does not work get me the model of your refrigerator and I can probably dig up a wiring diagram and a parts manual for you. Here's a reference of what a heating element may look like for your refrigerator.

Jenn-Air Heatin and Tempature element
 

Mr Bogus

Trouble Makers Inc.
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I know this may sound dumb but I had a fridge that was doing that one time.. turned out the light was not turning off when the door was closed.. sort of unlikely but at least one more thing to eliminate..
 

racerV

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Mine just went out as well. Repair guy says the compressor is toast. Will be buying a new one this weekend.
 

pbghost

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last year my defrost element went out and it was icing up...not hard to replace, just took the back cover off, unplugged the heat strip from the controller, popped them out of the clips that holds them to the coil and replaced with the new one.
 

UncleSteve

Gear good - roadrash bad
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last year my defrost element went out and it was icing up...not hard to replace, just took the back cover off, unplugged the heat strip from the controller, popped them out of the clips that holds them to the coil and replaced with the new one.
I just checked the continuity of the defrost element and it was bad. ordered a new one for $40 online. Hope nothing else is wrong with it.
 

Pardini

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Jennair SXS's have a defrost board located in the upper right back corner of the console. Reach in to the very back corners at the top inside of the refer. There is a finger hole in both corner's, kind of bow the cover and yank it straight out, it's a fight sometimes. Then there are 3 1/4 inch screws one straight back by the filter 2 going up that hold the numbered index plate. Then there are two phillips screws by each light. Remove them all.

Then wiggle and slide the whole console assy gently to the right and drop it down. Don't force it, the thermostat sticks in to the freezer on the left side and you don't want to jack it or the styrofoam up. You'll see the ADC board in in back right held by 2 1/4" screws. Might be in a plastic case or an open board. Thats the problem for a no defrost very sheldom is it the heater. Heater is easy to check with and ohm meter, also check the bi metal attached to the same plug. The bi metal is closed when cold, once it hits 45 to 55 degrees it opens so check it when its frosted.

I'd be surprised if it's any thing but the board.

The board can be checked to by shorting the left two pins together with a screwdriver blade. One is marked LINE 1 the other TEST. With the refer running short them together. The fans/comp should stop and the heater come on. If it dosen't shut off the board is bad. If the rely on the board buzzes it's bad. If the fans stop check for 120 vac at the heater plug-- no voltage the board is bad.
 

UncleSteve

Gear good - roadrash bad
Donating Member
Registered
Jennair SXS's have a defrost board located in the upper right back corner of the console. Reach in to the very back corners at the top inside of the refer. There is a finger hole in both corner's, kind of bow the cover and yank it straight out, it's a fight sometimes. Then there are 3 1/4 inch screws one straight back by the filter 2 going up that hold the numbered index plate. Then there are two phillips screws by each light. Remove them all.

Then wiggle and slide the whole console assy gently to the right and drop it down. Don't force it, the thermostat sticks in to the freezer on the left side and you don't want to jack it or the styrofoam up. You'll see the ADC board in in back right held by 2 1/4" screws. Might be in a plastic case or an open board. Thats the problem for a no defrost very sheldom is it the heater. Heater is easy to check with and ohm meter, also check the bi metal attached to the same plug. The bi metal is closed when cold, once it hits 45 to 55 degrees it opens so check it when its frosted.

I'd be surprised if it's any thing but the board.

The board can be checked to by shorting the left two pins together with a screwdriver blade. One is marked LINE 1 the other TEST. With the refer running short them together. The fans/comp should stop and the heater come on. If it dosen't shut off the board is bad. If the rely on the board buzzes it's bad. If the fans stop check for 120 vac at the heater plug-- no voltage the board is bad.
Great info, I will check it out, thank you :thumbsup:
 
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