Redo Wire At Stator Connector To Rectifier

Kevin Jones

Kevin Jones

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Seems a bad design the way that the 3 yellow wires go into the harness and I had a bad stator cooked some insulation. Im going to redo the connections and run the good and beefy conductors outside of the main harness back to the regulator. I was going to order the Rick's hot shot kit but I cant tell by looking at it that it is what I need. I will take some pics as I go. Maybe I can list some parts and this cant be that big a deal and somebody else might want to do this. I just couldn't find it with search.
 
Well as I dug the 3 yellows out of the harness and followed en route to regulator, one had burned insulation, discolored bare conductor and miraculously didn't cook any other adjacent wire. I am going to run 14ga new conductor for all 3 to the stator connector and R/R separate from the main harness and up and under the frame away from anything.
 
actually if you are experiencing similar problems, I am actually going to run the three conductors from the stator in 12ga wire in a separate loom outside of the main harness. I found some connectors. I can give you the link. I am going to put it all together tmrw night, should be able to get it done. I attribute a lot of the problems to insufficient wire gauge. It may have been fine for a stock gen 1 but with a bunch of piggybacks, 2 fans, intercooler water pump, fuel pump pulling serious amps under boost and all kind of poop. needs upgraded. I don't think 2 batteries is the answer.
 
Lets just make sure the connectors are decent quality and that I will be able to stuff the 12ga into it. Ive tried stuff like this before and if you go too big of a conductor and try to stuff the terminal in, it wont fit in the plastic connector well.
 
Rick's has a stator "hot shot" connector kit but I opted with connectors from cycle terminal. Connectors are of varying quality, but the busa uses Yazaki brand/style. Lets see how these cycle terminals do. I couldn't even determine what comes with the Rick's kit. I called and asked them to tell me what the kit consisted of. He said "everything you need". I hate when people do that. How many terminals, how many connectors? Any wire? WTF? I didn't even describe the harness I was going to make, how does he know what I am doing? Will get some pics up later. Biggest problem you will see is the Rick's stator has big conductors which bottleneck at the factory harness connector ( I swear it looks 16a) and go into the main harness for even more heat retention and then I have a Rick's R/R which has big conductors. Going to make a nice and low resistance path.
 
I have a gen 2 radiator with 2 fans, an intercooler water pump, aem failsafe and oil and fuel pressure gauges, a beefy fuel pump, power commander, microtech lt9c for secondaries, woolich log box pro, and an ams1k. My c02 shifter runs with ecu shift, MPS harness. I rewired everything while installing some other things. Ok, sequence of events. I would do about 3 passes and my battery would be dead. Checked battery, sucked, got lithium. Still didn't get good volts. Stator didn't pass test. Got Rick's stator and Ricks R/R. Got decent volts (low 13s). As I was rewiring my bike while motor is being built, I ran into a cooked yellow (1 of the 3) in the harness between stator and RR. I had no choice but to make a new harness. I decided to up the gauge for heat handling and to run the new harness outside of the main harness for heat dispersion and if it cooks, it wont take out the whole harness. I ordered the applicable parts which I can list from cycle terminal. Everything I have done is to avoid a second battery.
 
Last edited:
Here is the culprit wire. It was after the connector which then goes into main harness en route to regulator.

culprit.png
 
Here is what I began, measured the length of the connector to the regulator and added 8 inches. Then began to crimp/solder up the 12ga wire. I do not have a fancy crimper, I used a needlenose pliers. I do not solder terminals like others, even my dad who is an electronics tech. I use both the forward and rear lugs on the connector as a solder point. Most use the rear to crimp to insulation. My way does leave a little exposed conductor out of the back of the connector when you insert, easily fixed with a little liquid electrical tape to the back of the connector.

mycrimps.png
 
The worst thing you can do is push the conductor too far so that it will not lock in the connector. Here is the harness in progress

making harness.png
 
My cheesy solder station. I dip the conductor in the flux before I crimp. Then make sure you wipe with a wet rag after the solder to remove flux. Supposedly flux is corrosive.

mysolderstation.png
 
I completed 3 wires of equal length and the end of the harness going into the stator connector and used a section of 3/8 wrap and put my female connections on the other ends of the wires where they will go into the connector at the regulator.

complete harness.png
 
I needed to remove the old stator wire and connectors from the harness. Had to remove a lot of electrical tape and I cut the connector off at stator and I cut the yellow wires and the red and black at the regulator connector. Took about 15 minutes to work that wire out. I also had to retape the sections I removed which took a while. I wish I had some of that good wrap and not electrical tape.

pullingoutwire.png
 
New harness going in and routing new harness. I wanted to avoid anywhere that it might get pinched and wanted some distance from the main harness in case it got hot it wouldn't take it all out.

newharnessgoingin.png


routingnewharness.png
 
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