Rebuilt my forks last night....

[CAT3]

I have a stem mount front stand, and rear stand. I'm going to try and find the material local to make the compressor tool myself. Basically a 2" ID steel ring, with a hole drilled and tapped on each side, then thread a blunt tip rod into it....make it look like a tap handle. I like the "shop" type compressors, might try and fab one of those up to make it a one person operation.
Let me know if you want a hand and I can see about riding over there. GL.

 

[Wag]

Okay, worked up this parts list on RaceTech's site.

I think I got everything and then some.

--Wag--

 

[CAT3]

Dang Wag, you aren't playing around huh? 1.2kg springs, that spells heavy rider on Race mode, wow. I didn't get the copper washer (since I wasn't doing an R&R on the Dampening Cartridge inside), the bushings, I had checked the bushings for wear earlier so didn't do them either. The GV I may end up doing in the spring or summer. Depends on the setup feels on the daily commute/twisties etc...

 

[GJoker]

Thanks for the info, Cat3... very cool~  

Thanks for narrowing down to the penny, Wag!  

 
That's a print out that will hang in the garage until I can git-r-done~  

 

[BA BUSA]

(Wag @ Dec. 10 2006,08:39) Okay, worked up this parts list on RaceTech's site.  

I think I got everything and then some.

--Wag--

Louis 1.2 springs are too stiff for your weight...if you only did street riding I would use the 1.0
springs, but since you do like to do some AGRESSIVE street riding and you will be going to the track
go with the 1.1's

Stock is .85

Also when you go on one of your longer rides with luggage and want to crank up the speed a
bit in the corners the 1.1's will work better than the 1.0's  

 

[Wag]

(CAT3 @ Dec. 10 2006,10:35) Dang Wag, you aren't playing around huh? 1.2kg springs, that spells heavy rider on Race mode, wow. I didn't get the copper washer (since I wasn't doing an R&R on the Dampening Cartridge inside), the bushings, I had checked the bushings for wear earlier so didn't do them either. The GV I may end up doing in the spring or summer. Depends on the setup feels on the daily commute/twisties etc...

I figure as long as I'm going to the effort of taking this thing apart, I'm going to replace anything under there I can. 'Specially if it's under $20!

--Wag--

 

[Wag]

(BA BUSA @ Dec. 10 2006,14:40)

(Wag @ Dec. 10 2006,08:39) Okay, worked up this parts list on RaceTech's site.

I think I got everything and then some.

--Wag--

Louis 1.2 springs are too stiff for your weight...if you only did street riding I would use the 1.0
springs, but since you do like to do some AGRESSIVE street riding and you will be going to the track
go with the 1.1's

Stock is .85

Also when you go on one of your longer rides with luggage and want to crank up the speed a
bit in the corners the 1.1's will work better than the 1.0's

Yeah, you're probably right. I'm a big boy but maybe not THAT big!

I tell you what, though. As good as the food is here in NM, I may NEED the 1.2's by the time September rolls around!

--Wag--

 

[hayabusa99b/w]

 

[HT_USMC]

Nice write up! Thanks!

Tagging this for future reference.

 

[texlurch]

When installing the longer, heavier Racetech springs, did anyone cut the stock spacer to obtain proper preload? According to my instructions, I need 20mm preload, which will require me to cut off around 1/2" of the stock spacer. Waiting on callback from Racetech so I thought I would ask on here....

 

[winlite]

cant see pics. would like to see them. can any one help with this?

 

[roadthing]

You can feel free to cut the spacer down to the needed length. Just remember to double-check your measurements.

BTW This thread was from 2006!

 

[raydog]

Wag, Rich's advice is so right on. I weigh 240 lbs and with really hard riding (track or twisties) my 1.1 springs with Gold Valves are perfect....AND they are dialed down to the minimum preload.
A guy at the track said to me "dude, how can you ride with those adjusters backed all the way off?"....he had no idea how stout those forks are! Casual touring is slightly stiff but well worth it (very tolerable when loaded with touring gear for a few days outing).

Not to change the subject but doing a Race Tech rear shock is another quantum leap! Remember that for the future. Doyle


2006 THREAD! 2nd time in my life I didn't look at the date...I'm so stupid.

 

[JusPlaynBob]

2006 or not,
its too Bad the pictures are gone.
I've read this thread several times, trying to get the courage to do this myself.
Still good though.

 

[ktw88q]

Yes old but who still has the pictures???

 

[Hayabusa2005]

Thanks for the info...

 

[spotrot]

The fork seals on my 04 were leaking - this post was a big help.

A few extra notes hopefully of use:

Essential Tools:

10 mm allen (3/8" may work, it's smaller and may strip the bolt) at least 3" long for the 'drain plug' called the "damper rod bolt" in the manual
After breaking it loose, an impact wrench is probably essential to remove it.

24 mm allen (I found a nut partially insert and turn with a wrench) to remove the axle shaft

Work the fender down to remove it

Manual said to use threadlock on the damper rod bolt, use new copper gasket (it's really not a crush gasket) and tighten to 40 Nm (29 lb ft)

Manual said 480 ml (16 oz) fork oil

I needed to remove the upper triple plate for access to loosen the cap

I did not need to remove the fairings, just the piece under the headlight

Parts from Justin 10-13

Parts needed for 2004 GSX1300R

Fork seal kit (for both forks) $14/ea Dust Seal, $14/ea Oil Seal, $1/ea Bottom Bolt Gasket
Fork oil - 1 L Maxima 10W
$30 ‘spacer nut’ for front axle
Upper O-Ring - seldom sells

Ut's a fairly easy job - the second time.