Reasons for not stretching
- Thread starter BusaTrip
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TurboR1391
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How is the prepping at the track where you run? IMHO unless you are at a track that is not prepped correctly you will get traction with Michelin Power Ones and if you want a cheaper tire try a Shinko Hookup ($125+). You pay initially for the Power Ones ($225+), but they are good tires on a prepped surface. The one currently on my Busa has been on there since February last year and it's still hooking with no problems. I would say it still has at least 50 passes left before I have to think about replacing it. It's got around 75 passes on it now. Just a thought.........You will definitely hook with the M/T flat slicks
, but they usually don't last as long as a normal tire and you lose a little mph on the big end.
How is the prepping at the track where you run? IMHO unless you are at a track that is not prepped correctly you will get traction with Michelin Power Ones and if you want a cheaper tire try a Shinko Hookup ($125+). You pay initially for the Power Ones ($225+), but they are good tires on a prepped surface. The one currently on my Busa has been on there since February last year and it's still hooking with no problems. I would say it still has at least 50 passes left before I have to think about replacing it. It's got around 75 passes on it now. Just a thought.........You will definitely hook with the M/T flat slicks
How will you loose MPH on the top end? the tire is taller than a stock sized tire - should give you more top end speed. I ran the Shinko 003 for 2 years - good tire but just not a big enough foot print for the HP i wanted to put down. BTW - my bike is drag only.
TurboR1391
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Easy guy don't get defensive???..................I'm referring to square slicks...........I didn't ask about your bike (Icemansid's land based missle) I was referring to Rick D's street bike. We all have our opinions based off experience and I'm sticking with what I know and that is a M/T slick is not the best bang for the buck for drag racing street style bikes (I'm not referring to Pro Mods) its currently the Michelin Power One. The Michelin also gives you the ability to run 20-25lbs of air instead of running a near flat slick which hurts your mph.
Oh and BTW my bike is a drag only bike too (never seen the street). Now that we have introduced ourselves Icemansid what kind of bike is your drag bike?
2006 LE - saw 2 years on the street, been drag ever since. currently putting on a 10-over chassis swingarm from Chassis Werxs, 16/54 sprocket combo, Boost By Smith auto shifter, ECU Editor & NOS control, 3000PSI HPA air shifter system, lowered in front, single front rotor, MSD 2-step, AEM wideband /w Daytona Sensors NOS Control/Data logger. sorry for the messy shop - belongs to my fater :/
allmotor01
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Hi rickD what we did down here took some timing out of first where its most violent that gives you confidence to go full about 1.2 sec into the run. my 2cents worth.
TurboR1391
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Nice looks like lots of work has been put into your setup. Where are you planning on running it as far as bike circuits? Out here on the east coast we have the MiRock Series and a few more smaller circuits, but MiRock is the main show in town for bikes.
Here's my bike last season at the beginning..........and at the end after the track clean up crew failed to clean up antifreeze on the big end a car leaked before they sent the bikes down
This is how it will look this season
It's a Real Street bike and it's been 8.10s @177 on the back wheel backing of the throttle to control wheeling. It had trouble last year with a grimlin keeping it out of the 7s. Real Street is a stock hand clutch class so the limit of the bike is wheelbase and clutch configuration. Won't go into detail on the motor setup but let's just say nitrous loves stroke and not too much bore. Also the number above is with a 220lb rider not a "man cub"
Nice looks like lots of work has been put into your setup. Where are you planning on running it as far as bike circuits? Out here on the east coast we have the MiRock Series and a few more smaller circuits, but MiRock is the main show in town for bikes.
Here's my bike last season at the beginning..........and at the end after the track clean up crew failed to clean up antifreeze on the big end a car leaked before they sent the bikes down
This is how it will look this season
It's a Real Street bike and it's been 8.10s @177 on the back wheel backing of the throttle to control wheeling. It had trouble last year with a grimlin keeping it out of the 7s. Real Street is a stock hand clutch class so the limit of the bike is wheelbase and clutch configuration. Won't go into detail on the motor setup but let's just say nitrous loves stroke and not too much bore. Also the number above is with a 220lb rider not a "man cub"
Ouch - tough news about the freeze.... They dont allow that at our track. I live about 14 miles from an NHRA track. Next closes track is about 200ish miles in Sturgis SD..... So i dont ever travel far from home
allmotor01
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No need JUst have a look at the time slips First time out 1299 swb lowered strapped , wheighs 207 kgs & thats our baby bike more to come next week.
No nos , no turbo , no strech , no bull **** , no nothing , just all motor. lol.
No nos , no turbo , no strech , no bull **** , no nothing , just all motor. lol.
If you want it to be stock wheel base, your just going to need to relax on the throttle, ease in to it more. Also if you lower the bike, that helps a lot too.
Mines boosted, and sitting at about 65inches.(7 over) and im at 300hp. My bike hooks HARD on the street, but it does spin sometimes.
My advice to you is pul the rear wheel in some so its about 4 or 5 over, and then play with the rear shock. Im willing to bet your spring is to tight for your weight, or your compression is set to hard. give that a try.
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