Rear Wheel Inspection, Gen 2 Hayabusa

[Mythos]

Rear Wheel Inspection Gen2 Hayabusa​

1. Test the condition of the cush drive rubbers by turning the sprocket forward and back by hand. This may be done with the rear wheel installed. If there is any movement in either direction, the cush drive rubbers should be replaced.

2. Remove the rear wheel (see Rear Wheel Removal, steps 1 through 11).

Remove the collar from the rubber dust seal and inspect the dust seal for wear or damage.

Place your fingers in the outer bearing in the sprocket carrier and feel for smooth rotation. If any abnormal noises or roughness in the bearing is detected, the bearing should be replaced.

Test the inner bearing located in the rear wheel in the same way.


3. Mark the position of the rear sprocket carrier to the wheel hub so that the sprocket carrier can be installed exactly as it was removed.

Pull the sprocket carrier straight out of the wheel hub. Be careful that the retainer does not fall out. It usually sticks loosely to the inside of the sprocket carrier.

Mark the wheel dampers for reinstallation and remove them. Clean any dirt from the cells within the cush drive.

Inspect the wheel dampers for wear or damage. If they did not hold the sprocket carrier in place before it was removed, it probably would be a good idea to replace the wheel dampers.

I replaced my OEM wheel damper with Sensei cush drive rubbers. They held the sprocket carrier very firmly in place.


4. Make sure the retainer is properly installed to the sprocket carrier.

Insert the sprocket carrier to the cush drive rubbers using your finger to hold the retainer into the sprocket carrier.

New wheel dampers will fit tightly to the cells and the sprocket carrier fingers. The sprocket carrier required compression to seat it deep enough into the new rubbers. After pushing the sprocket carrier in as far as I could with my upper body weight, I placed a block of wood over the axle hole in the sprocket carrier and stood on it (make sure the LH wheel spacer is removed) to press the carrier further into position. There was still a very small gap between the sprocket carrier cover and the wheel hub.

I covered the center of the sprocket carrier with a piece of wood and delivered a few light blows with a large rubber mallet. That seemed to have pushed the sprocket carrier in far enough to close the gap. It is normal to see the unpainted edge of the sprocket carrier cover but there should not be a gap.

5. Install the rear wheel (see Rear Wheel Removal, steps 12 through 20).

 

[RedBull]

NICE !

 

[Mythos]

Looks like the hammer might not be necessary. People are pressing the sprocket carrier in far enough to fit in the swingers. Tightening the axle bolt should push the sprocket carrier in all the way. I would test the torque of the rear axle nut frequently until the sprocket carrier is seated all the way in the wheel. Also check that there is no gap between the sprocket carrier and the wheel as shown in the last pic.

 

[HayaWakened]

@Mythos Your tutorials are amazing and I love them! Thanks!

 

[Mythos]

@HayaWakened thanks, bro. It's a little motorcycle side hobby I picked up over the last ten years. I was impressed with tutorials I found others writing and I try to the same. I'm glad they help you out. I still refer to them too.

 

[Mythos]

People are pressing the sprocket carrier in far enough to fit in the swingers.

That should be "pressing the sprocket carrier in far enough to fit in the SWINGARM."