Rear wheel hardly spins




Super Trucker

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I have it all put back together and now the rear wheel hardly turns. I have about 3/4" play in the chain. I put on a Sun Star 16T front sprocket and a speedo healer. I have the bike on a race stand and as I am turning the wheel by hand and get only 1 revolution. I started it and in 1st gear at 8 mph (still on the stand) as soon as I pulled the clutch in it had about 1 more revolution. That isn't right is it? If not what did I do wrong? I did tighten the nut on the front as tight as I could get it using 3/4 drive ratchet and a cheater bar.
 

A'Busa'd

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Don't know much about the stock setup, but if your new front sproket is smaller than the stock one, it will be harder to turn. Other than that, the alignment of the sprokets could be off, but I doubt it.
 

grabntwist

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I had a race stand with rubber pads and when I used it on my CBR the rear sproket bolts would hit the pad. This you stopthe rear tire. Not sure what kind of stand you got but hope it helps.
 

Super Trucker

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One revolution to what?  Does something jam up?
When I try to give the wheel a hard turn (spin hard) while looking at the tire it turns 1 complete turn the stops. Is it jammed, I don't know. A'Busa'd mentioned the smaller sprocket will make it harder to spin. I am going to lift the rear of my wife's bike and see the difference.
 

Super Trucker

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I put my wifes bike (sv650s) on the stand and got 2 revolutions on her tire. ( I put the valve at the bottom spin it and count the turns) I checked the brake drag on both bikes and they are similar both have a slight drag not much though. I think after work tomorrow I will try to ride it and see if it handles ok on the street.
 

BigBSBusa

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Were you having clutch problems before the sprocket change?
 

pure_ego

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you didn't over tighten the axle nut did ya?

have you tried turning the wheel with the chain off of it?

maybe got a dud bearing... you could probably feel/hear that.. but it's a possibility.

But if you cranked the torque on the axle nut like your describing for the sprocket... my vote is your binding the whole rear wheel up.
 

drumminman

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I can't remember the exact factory specs, but I think the chain should have a little more slack. Lik 1.1-1.2 inches. A tight chain could cause binding. Check your owner's manual.


smile.gif
 

mjn

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Did you mess with the brake pads? Could they be dragging?
 

Super Trucker

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Were you having clutch problems before the sprocket change?
no clutch problems before the change.


I did not mess with the brake system.

I am not sure if I over tightened the sprocket nut. It was hard to break loose so I cranked it back down.



<!--EDIT|Super Trucker
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pure_ego

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you really don't need to torque the crap out of the axle nut..

I don't know the exact specs.. but I normally tighten mine until I can put the cotter pin back thru the axle/bolt fairly easily.

I don't mean the sprocket nut.. crank the torque to that baby.. thats no biggie.

I mean the rear axle... ya know.. where the wheel goes.. ahha.
 

BusaWhipped

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you really don't need to torque the crap out of the axle nut..

I don't know the exact specs.. but I normally tighten mine until I can put the cotter pin back thru the axle/bolt fairly easily.

I don't mean the sprocket nut.. crank the torque to that baby..   thats no biggie.

I mean the rear axle... ya know.. where the wheel goes.. ahha.
The torque spec for the rear axle nut is 72.5 ft lbs. It is important to properly torque the nuts and bolts according to the specs. If you are going to be doing your own work, buy a good torque wrench and download the service manual from here. You'll also need a 36mm socket for the rear axle nut. I would recommend getting good tools for working on it and leaving the tool kit under the seat for emergencies.
 

Super Trucker

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you really don't need to torque the crap out of the axle nut..

I don't know the exact specs.. but I normally tighten mine until I can put the cotter pin back thru the axle/bolt fairly easily.

I don't mean the sprocket nut.. crank the torque to that baby..   thats no biggie.

I mean the rear axle... ya know.. where the wheel goes.. ahha.
The torque spec for the rear axle nut is 72.5 ft lbs.  It is important to properly torque the nuts and bolts according to the specs.  If you are going to be doing your own work, buy a good torque wrench and download the service manual from here.  You'll also need a 36mm socket for the rear axle nut.  I would recommend getting good tools for working on it and leaving the tool kit under the seat for emergencies.
I did buy the 36mm socket a while back for chain adj. I was refering to the front sprocket nut when I stated, I got it as tight as possible, not the rear axle. Thanks for checking though, I am always open to suggestions.
I took it out for a ride last night and it seems to function properly. I will need a lot of practice with the throttle to keep the front end down though. I want to thank everybody once again for the help and all the info you have given me.
 

NearDeath

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you really don't need to torque the crap out of the axle nut..

I don't know the exact specs.. but I normally tighten mine until I can put the cotter pin back thru the axle/bolt fairly easily.

I don't mean the sprocket nut.. crank the torque to that baby..   thats no biggie.

I mean the rear axle... ya know.. where the wheel goes.. ahha.
The torque spec for the rear axle nut is 72.5 ft lbs.  It is important to properly torque the nuts and bolts according to the specs.  If you are going to be doing your own work, buy a good torque wrench and download the service manual from here.  You'll also need a 36mm socket for the rear axle nut.  I would recommend getting good tools for working on it and leaving the tool kit under the seat for emergencies.
I did buy the 36mm socket a while back for chain adj. I was refering to the front sprocket nut when I stated, I got it as tight as possible, not the rear axle. Thanks for checking though, I am always open to suggestions.
I took it out for a ride last night and it seems to function properly. I will need a lot of practice with the throttle to keep the front end down though. I want to thank everybody once again for the help and all the info you have given me.
download the service manual from this site and torque'em down properly... Never wrench something on until you can't turn it anymore, that is a sure way to strip/break stuff...

Get the chain slack right as well... The details for this are in the service manual...
 

Big Red

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Lightly lube the threads and surfaces then use a torque wrench and torque it to factory specs; use a new cotter pin. Keep extra cotter pins on hand.
 

frisbee

GODSPEED RACING
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Does it sound like the brake pads are rubbing? If not its the torque.
 



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