Brakes, any brake will fade during extended use. If you were pressing on the rear brake continuously for a long time (down a hill doesn’t matter) you will overheat the rotor and glaze the pads making them useless. Use your gearing for deceleration and brakes for stopping. Now, replace your pads with EBC HH sintered pads and bleed them with a new can of brake fluid. Only then will you know if the MC needs replacing. If not, your brakes will work much better.
Oh, fill in your profile. Where are you?
Good advice. If you boiled your brake fluid, the brake should come back when it cools down though, shouldn't it? Road racers have brake fade but I thought the brakes come back as they cool.
Go check if the rear brake is back.
If the fluid got really hot, it seems possible it might have overflowed the reservoir under the seat. Wash the fluid off imediately if you find any, it will eat through paint and etch ABS plastic.
Check the rear brake reservoir.
You can fill the reservoir. Check if it's low.
If it's empty, you might have air in the system and the only thing you can do is bleed it. The first time I bled brakes, it was confusing but I got the hang of it. You can't screw up your brake by bleeding. If you mess up and suck more air in you just keep bleeding until you get the knack of it. Ask questions here if your not sure about something. It is very obvious if you are doing it right or wrong by how the pedal feels while you are bleeding. Out of rear brake, front brake and clutch, the rear brake is the easiest to bleed. Good way to start practicing.
If bleeding doesn't bring the pressure back, then I guess you would look at replacing the MC. You should start to feel the pressure come back almost immediately when you bleed.
You do not need to close the bleeder valve TIGHT when you are bleeeding. Just snug is adequate. No sense to wear those threads. When you are done, tighten it and torque it. Inspect for leakage from the bleed valve after every ride and wash it off with water. If you really need to, tighten the valve a touch more but DON'T strip those threads. It often takes a while but the fluid will usually stop weeping frm the bleed valve without tightening beyond the specced torque. The thread stripping is the only thing you might mess up. The rest isn't too bad.
Give it a try if you feel up to it. Steps 13~21 here:
Brake and Clutch Fluid Bleed and Drain The brake fluid in brake and clutch systems is bled primarily to to rid the system of air that may have entered the system during maintenance procedures. Fluid may also be bled in order to change old, worn out brake fluid for new. In this case, the...
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