Rear Brake Caliper follow up

wardie

Donating Member
Registered
I had great brakes not too long ago on the rear. Running Ferodo F&R. Could really trail brake with the rear set-up. Got on the bike recently and the rear caliper had a good hard pedal but didnn't seem to hardly slow bike down. Pulled pads and sanded out what appeared to be glazing. Reinstalled and had negligible affect. Bleed the caliper today. Marginally better? Back bleeder definitely bleed more fluid that the bleeder on the outboard side. Just seems like I don't have enough pressure applied to the pads to stop. Now I realize 75% of the stopping power is on the front but I had real good stoppers on the back and now they are just marginal. Any ideas or suggestions? :please: Wardie
 
Possibly a sticky piston...pick up a kit and rebuild the caliper...easy job :thumbsup:
 
I also lightly sand the disk each year.
I go at a 45 degree angle from the inside to the outside and then again at the opposite 45degree angle, inside to outside.
It takes the glaze off the disk too.
I use a 150 or 220 (max) grit paper and don't take off too much but just lightly scuff it up.
You have to correctly bed the brakes after you do the disks and the pads:

https://www.hayabusa.org/forum/maintenance-do-yourself/50885-how-properly-bed-new-brakes.html

Good luck brother!

Brake Disk Sand.jpg
 
Last edited:
I did sand the rotor. I tend to lean towards a stuck piston. Inboard side when bleeding pushed fluid pretty well. Outboard side hardly pushed any no matter how many times I bleed it. Might as well grab an ss line while I'm at it. Wardie
 
If you have a Gen 1 remember there are 2 bleed screws on the rear caliper.

*** " Inboard side when bleeding pushed fluid pretty well. Outboard side hardly pushed any no matter how many times I bleed it. " ***

He bled BOTH sides.
 
*** " Inboard side when bleeding pushed fluid pretty well. Outboard side hardly pushed any no matter how many times I bleed it. " ***

He bled BOTH sides.

Yeah I missed that, thanks.

Us ****'s don't see that well at times. :laugh:
 
Hey wardie

In thinking about the one bleeder that won't let fluid flow, that must be a bleed screw problem.
There should be no reason for the fluid not to flow in the cylinder, even if one of the pistons is seized.
Why not try and switch the 2 bleed screws and see if that will let you flush the bad side?
Then you would know.
 
Disassembled caliper found outboard piston stuck. Cleaned everything and installed new piston seals and dust covers. Installed everything bleed the calipers . Now I decided to check my factory manual in addition to the current Clymer I was using and the factory manual showed that the seals could be put in wrong!!! I don't know about you but I was so pissed at myself I know better than to install without looking at them. I yanked everything apart popped the pistons pulled the seals and guess what? They must new updated versions because they didn't have the beveled edge the manual said to install last. DANG... Next problem all the fluid drained out of the reservoir. That means I'm going to have to pump the crap out of the master cylinder to get the air out. Well, after half an hour of getting no where (even tapping the lines) I finally broke loose the banjo bolt and bleed the fluid from the line and retightened. Brakes bleed pretty easily after that. Test drive later today for the final but from what I can see the stuck piston was the entire problem. PS manual said to remove tail...you don't have to. Removed the lower cover bolt and the frankenstein bolt and had enough clearance to get fingers down to remove reservoir cap. Wardie
 
i think my fronts do that...wore out the outside pads way more then my inner pads
 
Great that you got the brakes sorted.

Now, what's this "trail braking" thing you were talking about? I think I come from a different school of riding than you did. :poke:
 
Yeah I probably come from the "slower" riding school than you TruWrecks especially after chasing Dave and his B KING all over God's Creation Friday...

By definition the brakes (rear) are used beyond the entrance of a turn and gradually released up to the point of the apex. It allows for a less abrupt and more accurate final corner speed and a stronger steering action.

In other words for me I don't like to use the front unless I have to and almost always in conjunction with the rear. Whenever I use the front brake medium to harder pressure the front tends to right itself and definitely doesn't steer (counter steering) as well through the corner. It elimintes upsetting the chassis. For me it works better but... I have some friends who still drive around and under me no matter how good I think I am because the old saying is always true, "there's always someone better". I am just glad I recognize it and don't get in over my head. You with your experience probably do some sort of braking like this only maybe call it something else? Wardie
 
Back
Top