Real world valve adjustment interval on GEN2???

FlatlandBusa

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I am getting my '08 ready for the up coming riding season, it has 15,500 miles on it.

Primary use of the bike is sport touring with an occasional top speed run.

How ofter is every one finding that the valves need adjusted? Are you following the recommended interval in the manual or what mileage are you using?

Thanks,

John
 
If it's quite and running smoothly...you're good to go. Have them checked
@30k.
Posted via Mobile Device
 
If it's quite and running smoothly...you're good to go. Have them checked
@30k.
Posted via Mobile Device

I am sorry, but a "quiet" valve is not necessarily in spec. It could be quiet because there is no clearance. That is a mistake that will result in a burnt valve. . .:whistle:
 
I am sorry, but a "quiet" valve is not necessarily in spec. It could be quiet because there is no clearance. That is a mistake that will result in a burnt valve. . .:whistle:

I said "quite AND running smoothly..."

A tight valve on a bike with 15k on it ???
Posted via Mobile Device
 
I said "quite AND running smoothly..."

A tight valve on a bike with 15k on it ???
Posted via Mobile Device
OK, 1st of all it is spelled Quiet! 2nd of all, unless you are tearing up a track "POWERHOUSE", there really isn't a reason to be concerned. Every Hayabusa that I am aware of has been within in Spec beyond 16,000 miles. I think it would be safe to say that a check at 30,000 would be adequate.
 
Yeah I can spill without your help Jonh...thanks buddy!!!
Posted via Mobile Device
 
OK, 1st of all it is spelled Quiet! 2nd of all, unless you are tearing up a track "POWERHOUSE", there really isn't a reason to be concerned. Every Hayabusa that I am aware of has been within in Spec beyond 16,000 miles. I think it would be safe to say that a check at 30,000 would be adequate.

The bike idles smooth when warmed up, always a little rough the first few seconds on cold start.

30,000 miles was the interval I was think of waiting until, just wanted to see if other owners were having to adjust at the recommended intervals or if the titanium valves were holding up to miles and staying in adjustment.
 
I am sorry, but a "quiet" valve is not necessarily in spec. It could be quiet because there is no clearance. That is a mistake that will result in a burnt valve. . .:whistle:

Very true! I just checked my girls ride and all of them were out of spec by .003" or more from the minimal setting. Her bike has 37k plus... its Yamaha. Needless to say they all got adjusted. The engine ran fine, but I am glad that I fixed it before it got worse!
 
Very true! I just checked my girls ride and all of them were out of spec by .003" or more from the minimal setting. Her bike has 37k plus... its Yamaha. Needless to say they all got adjusted. The engine ran fine, but I am glad that I fixed it before it got worse!

Tim,

We are talking about a Gen2...not sone twenty year old Moped lol!!!
Posted via Mobile Device
 
Very true! I just checked my girls ride and all of them were out of spec by .003" or more from the minimal setting. Her bike has 37k plus... its Yamaha. Needless to say they all got adjusted. The engine ran fine, but I am glad that I fixed it before it got worse!

You said it right there "Yamaha" they have better quality than Suzuki I hate to break peoples hearts. I have no brand loyalty but in my valve check experiences Honda and Yamahas hold their tolerances better than Suzuki and Kawasaki. I had to do a check on my friend's track bikes his R1 and CBR has perfect tolerances at 16,000k while all the Suzuki's and Kawasaki's I have checked around 16k always needed shims. My 05' ZX10R needed 4 shims, lucky enough I was able to switch out two of them and ended up just buying one shim that I needed. The valves might be titanium but you have to remember that they are slapping against an aluminum head. To me, I'm more concerned with a quiet valve than a noisy one. If you do a lot of red lining and track I would take a peak around 20k. I do my own so its free for me.
 
You said it right there "Yamaha" they have better quality than Suzuki I hate to break peoples hearts. I have no brand loyalty but in my valve check experiences Honda and Yamahas hold their tolerances better than Suzuki and Kawasaki. I had to do a check on my friend's track bikes his R1 and CBR has perfect tolerances at 16,000k while all the Suzuki's and Kawasaki's I have checked around 16k always needed shims. My 05' ZX10R needed 4 shims, lucky enough I was able to switch out two of them and ended up just buying one shim that I needed. The valves might be titanium but you have to remember that they are slapping against an aluminum head. To me, I'm more concerned with a quiet valve than a noisy one. If you do a lot of red lining and track I would take a peak around 20k. I do my own so its free for me.

Yep, my higher revving Yamaha R1's recommended valve check comes only at 42,000 km, twice as much as the Hayabusa's.
Do you hear that, Suzuki??
 
If it's quite and running smoothly...you're good to go. Have them checked
@30k.
Posted via Mobile Device

I said "quite AND running smoothly..."

A tight valve on a bike with 15k on it ???
Posted via Mobile Device

OK, 1st of all it is spelled Quiet! 2nd of all, unless you are tearing up a track "POWERHOUSE", there really isn't a reason to be concerned. Every Hayabusa that I am aware of has been within in Spec beyond 16,000 miles. I think it would be safe to say that a check at 30,000 would be adequate.

Yeah I can spill without your help Jonh...thanks buddy!!!
Posted via Mobile Device

You bunch of grumpy old men :poke:

Anyway, I ran the piss out of an '06 36K miles and running strong when I wrecked her. '08 has over 17K no issues. Rockadaous just had to have his '06 adjusted, don't know how many miles he had on the bike.
 
As the valve seats they go up,hence getting a little tighter..but Ive checked a bunch all were in spec for many miles..
 
Does any one know if you could go from a .18-.28mm exh. clearance to .08-.18 like the intake valve lashing. I was wanting to do somewhere around a .10 on the exh. What do you all think.
 
Um, all of the information regarding Gen I valve adjustment intervals is useless. Ti valves (even with lighter springs) wear at the seats a lot faster than SS valves. I'm a lot harder on equipment than some, but mine were out in first thousand miles. If you think they will go for 15k you are mistaken.
 
Can't we just ride it till it breaks?:laugh: What would a burned valve sound like on a bike? I have never had a burned valve on any motor in my life, so no experience with it. If Suzuki would bring out a 1400cc 4 cylinder 2 stroke engine, then by golly I would be a buyer sight unseen! I figure about 190 to 200 hp with no valves and a nice scream at full rev, maybe 13,000 rpm? 400lb full up wieght. Makes my juices flow.......:thumbsup:
 
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