Ram Air Tube Removal

Mythos

Registered
Gen 2 Ram Air Tube Removal​
The ram air tubes do not normally need to be removed except for general disassembly. I took my ram air tubes off to seal them and to remove the grommets which had been pushed inside by the fairing projections.

Do First:
Remove side and lower fairings (see https://www.hayabusa.org/forum/gen-ii-busa-information/127746-gen2-hayabusa-fairing-tutorial-videos-w-pics.html)


Remove dash panels and nose fairing (see https://www.hayabusa.org/forum/maintenance-do-yourself/178519-gen-2-upper-fairing-removal.html )

Tools:
4mm hex tool
non-permanent thread locking agent



Removal

1. Use a 4mm hex tool to remove the screw which retains the right ram air tube.
Rramtubescrw.jpg

2. Pull the ram air tube straight out perpendicular to the frame where it inserts.
Rramairtubrmvl.jpg

3. Use a 4mm hex tool to remove the two screws (indicated by arrows in the pic below) that fasten the fuse block bracket to the left ram air tube.
FusblockbrktscrwsLram.png

4. Use a 4mm hex tool to remove the screw that fastens the left ram air tube to the fairing stay.
Lramtubescrw.jpg

5. Pull the left ram air tube straight out perpendicular to where it inserts in the frame.
Lramtubermvl.jpg

Installation
6. Installation of the ram air tubes is the reverse procedure. Rout the 4 wires on the left side to the outside of the left ram air tube. The wires rout around the front of the bracket on the ram air tube that fastens to fairing stay as shown below.
Lramtubewireroute.jpg

7. Use non-permanent thread locking agent on the screws that secure the ram air tubes to the fairing stay...
ramtubefstnrloktit.jpg

and the screws that secure the fuse block bracket.
fusblokbrakloktit.jpg

These screws do not have a torque spec but I suggest good and snug or about 1 to 1.5 foot pounds. Do not over-tighten on the plastic parts.
 
7. Use non-permanent thread locking agent on the screws that secure the ram air tubes to the fairing stay...

sorry for my hard writing
but
what a damn nonsense using thread lock for 4mm Allen bolts :banghead:

all screws (except some 2 or 3 inside motor or Allen at front sprocket or rear footrest "arms" to frame) never! get a thread locking at all.

see/follow the manual - only if a thread lock is expressly prescribed there may it be used - nowhere else!

especially these tiny allen bolts at the ram air or at front fender (same bolts) or so - never use thread lock !

when the locking does its work, you are in largest danger to destroy the Allen-head when you try to loosen the bolt again
and the you got the worst job on earth - you will have to drill out the bolt(s).
THANKS :banghead: for that - totaly unfunny !

last 12 years I've seen this scenery a dozen times and always drilling the Allen screws was the only chance.

torque these Allen screws (like all others too) with max 8 Nm or as demanded in the manual and they never get loose.
 
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(...)
These screws do not have a torque spec but I suggest good and snug or about 1 to 1.5 foot pounds. Do not over-tighten on the plastic parts.

very hidden but yes! - they named a torque of 8 Nm for these Allen screws
look at the fender page 9D-11 - "Mudguard Construction"

and this torque i use for all this kind of Allen screws.
 
sorry for my hard writing
but
what a damn nonsense using thread lock for 4mm Allen bolts :banghead:

all screws (except some 2 or 3 inside motor or Allen at front sprocket or rear footrest "arms" to frame) never! get a thread locking at all.

see/follow the manual - only if a thread lock is expressly prescribed there may it be used - nowhere else!

especially these tiny allen bolts at the ram air or at front fender (same bolts) or so - never use thread lock !

when the locking does its work, you are in largest danger to destroy the Allen-head when you try to loosen the bolt again
and the you got the worst job on earth - you will have to drill out the bolt(s).
THANKS :banghead: for that - totaly unfunny !

last 12 years I've seen this scenery a dozen times and always drilling the Allen screws was the only chance.

torque these Allen screws (like all others too) with max 8 Nm or as demanded in the manual and they never get loose.

Or....you could’ve just related what your experience has been and let it go at that instead of coming off as the one and only know it all of the Hayabusa. Jus sayin.... :confused:
 
@WuzzaCBXRider

dear wuzza, ;)
the worst experience i got was a broken off little "finger" (for front fender) at a gen1 fork
when out drilling the (thread locked) allen screw.
(the same damn crap happened to me at the same place many years before , when i once tried to punch carefully a little bit bigger torx into the demaged Allen - that leaded me then now to drill out only)

or
the danger of melting the surrounding plastic while drilling the screw i don´t want to explain this extra.

and it is not only a problem at busa´s - it is a prob at all similar bikes.

i´m really not "the one and only", but in some cases i guess i have to warn all "screw drivers", if there might be a real risk of a following danger.

i apologize (again) if my writing seems too strong.

but my experiences of more than 15 years in forums/boards like this here made me writing my sometimes strong way - shaking awake a bit
 
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very hidden but yes! - they named a torque of 8 Nm for these Allen screws
look at the fender page 9D-11 - "Mudguard Construction"

and this torque i use for all this kind of Allen screws.

Thanks for bringing that to my attention. I'd go back and edit that into the tutorial but it's not possible to do that after this length time.
 
No wonder germans have a world wide reputation as rude and aggressive azzholes!

Good work @Mythos
And even if not really necessary (thread lock) - I does not hurt if its the IMpermanent one!
 
Thanks, Sandow.

Nothing terribly rude about those coments. The man is good enough to speak English like every German is taught to do and I sure appreciate that as an English only speaker. He just doesn't go for thread locker.

I use it a lot on screws that the SM does not spec it for. The reason is that I often put aluminum screws in (except for inside the engine and the serious load bearing parts like brakes) and I usually torque them 2/3 to 1/2 what is specced. The reason is that aluminum stretches easily and I am loosening and tightening bolts quite frequently. The blue Permatex Lock-Tite works quite well for most stuff. I will agree with BG that it can at times create a problem. I had threads cross on one bike where I used thread lock on a fairing. I think the buildup of dried thread lock might have encouraged the bolt to establish a new thread and after two or three difficult thread-ins, the aluminum bit came out trashed. I got a thread restoring tap (believe it was made by a German company) and fixed it but reminds me to be careful to not allow a buildup of thread locking agent or use a thread cleaning tap to remove it. I rarely use thread lock every time. There is always some left in the threads and it works like a nylock so fresh Lock-Tite is usually not needed.
 
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