R1 Throttle On Gen 2

Blkoutbusa

Registered
Ok, so I have done the R1 throttle tube on bikes in the past, but only on stuff up to my 06 1000 I had last.

For a daily ridden street bike, is the Gen 2 Busa too much for the R1 throttle? I realize the throw isn't that much shorter, but I do know it is noticeable and makes input more drastic etc.

Feedback?
 
Never tried one but I'd say about the last thing I need is a throttle that is more touchy. Might be a good mod if you go WOT often but for most of my street and sport riding, I think a stock throttle is fine.
 
To be completely honest after the first ride I couldn't tell a difference. I didn't use the R1 tube, but the Shnitz Racing tube, but I think they are about the same. Sorry, my point being if you want to do it go ahead, it's not hard to get used to at all.
 
i think the r1 tube made a noticeable difference. I would do it again. Prob even try the r6 for a little quicker twist.
 
Here's the deal in a nut shell . stock tube you can't go WOT without placing wrist near 1 O clock or grabing two hand fulls of throttle .
R6/R1 tube make it a one hand full twist .
Bird is no more touchy than oem tube as it adds zero hp or changes fueling .
 
Here's the deal in a nut shell . stock tube you can't go WOT without placing wrist near 1 O clock or grabing two hand fulls of throttle .
R6/R1 tube make it a one hand full twist .
Bird is no more touchy than oem tube as it adds zero hp or changes fueling .

Right, I understand how i works and that it does NOT add HP, but it makes small inputs of throttle a greater percentage of input. If before 5 degrees of rotation was 5% of throttle increase, now that same 5 degrees of rotation will mean 8% throttle increase. You are essentially making throttle input more sensitive to changes as smaller changes to what you twist mean bigger input to the bike.

I just wanted to make sure that the shorter throw was still manageable on the street. I know how much better it made my 1k, but this bike is more powerful etc.
 
Here's the deal in a nut shell . stock tube you can't go WOT without placing wrist near 1 O clock or grabing two hand fulls of throttle .
R6/R1 tube make it a one hand full twist .
Bird is no more touchy than oem tube as it adds zero hp or changes fueling .

I agree with most of that.
But I ride alot of long stand up wheelies.
Having ridden bikes with short pull throttles added, I found it noticeable trying to keep the throttle exactly where it needs to be.
It did make it more touchy, twitchy. But otherwise, yeah, you get used to it. And it's nice being able to go from closed throttle to wide open, without having to regrip the throttle.
 
Bird is no more touchy than oem tube as it adds zero hp or changes fueling .

it does NOT add HP, but it makes small inputs of throttle a greater percentage of input.

maybe I have some work to do on my busa or my riding technique but when I am entering a corner fast ay 0% throttle (which I do a lot), I find I am searching for the tiniest crack possible to get back into the throttle. I often don't find it perfectly and the result is a pretty abrupt jump back into the power and it has been pretty scary a time or two. I have adjusted throttle cables as close to 0 play as possible once. ..or maybe it is a fueling problem. Both of my bikes do this and both are too powerful to need any less precision at small TPs.
 
maybe I have some work to do on my busa or my riding technique but when I am entering a corner fast ay 0% throttle (which I do a lot), I find I am searching for the tiniest crack possible to get back into the throttle. I often don't find it perfectly and the result is a pretty abrupt jump back into the power and it has been pretty scary a time or two. I have adjusted throttle cables as close to 0 play as possible once. ..or maybe it is a fueling problem. Both of my bikes do this and both are too powerful to need any less precision at small TPs.

I understand what your talking about with the anticipation of the throttle opening. What I have found to be helpful here is to go a gear lower and be on the throttle already. That way instead of waiting for it to crack open you only have to roll into it.
 
Kinda funny that I just got home from my first ride with my new R1 tube installed and see this thread. I give it a thumbs up for sure! Just a little learning curve to retrain my muscle memory, but really no different than the first time I rode it after having my ECU flashed. Is it necessary? No, but it sure does work as advertised. No complaints from my point of view.
 
I understand what your talking about with the anticipation of the throttle opening. What I have found to be helpful here is to go a gear lower and be on the throttle already. That way instead of waiting for it to crack open you only have to roll into it.

I've been trying to do this--get on the throttle early. I always downshift a gear or two before a slow corner and I'm used to letting the engine do the final braking. Recently I've been practicing staying on the throttle longer and relying on the brake to slow down just before tipping in. I might be on the brake and the throttle at the same time when I get this technique down. LOL I do recall once being on the brake, throtttle and modulating the clutch all at the same time last summer. LOL I guess it worked. Nice clean entry, never got off my line!

If you do this sort of riding, I think just a plain throttle tube without a grip might be the best for fine control. That is often all they use for road racing bikes. If the R1 tube is just a fatter tube, that may be the reason, they often don't have a grip on them for track riding anyway.
 
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I can not belive some things I read that a throttle tube will help you make corners better or worse
1st a little reading from some of the fine instructors out there like Keith Code , Nick Ienatsh
Or Total control writer will improve every day skills.
You should have 1 to 2 mm of play on your throttle cable . NO play makes for touchy throttle .
A track day or two , but don't go out wanting to ride the fast group. Take it easy , and spend the extra money to have a instructor follow you with video so they can show you your good or bad habits .
Tire choice will affect your entry / exit .
Carry on now .
https://www.amazon.com/dp/1893618072/?tag=hayabusamazon-20
 
Corect me if wrong but shouldnt you be turning with some throttle (just to keep pace) and not zero throttle (engine braking through the turn).
 
I try to do all my braking before the turn (not starting a conversation about trail braking). As c10 said throttle tube has nothing to do with it. As far as tube diameter goes that just applies to the cam the cables goes around, as far as I know the grip size is the same.
 
You should have 1 to 2 mm of play on your throttle cable . NO play makes for touchy throttle .
Depends who you ask. I've had my cables adjusted with some play and that leads to the problem I initially brought up, you can't find where the throttle starts. I try to get as close to no play as possible and like that far better. Actually, I think I read that in Total Control last winter but I've been doing it for years because I hated having even a couple mm of play.

Corect me if wrong but shouldnt you be turning with some throttle (just to keep pace) and not zero throttle (engine braking through the turn).
Yes, that keeps the suspensions neutral. Handling is poor when the suspension is pitchig forward. I don't decelerate through the corner but always before. I accellerate into the corner and that's why it is important to know just where 1% or less throttle is. I need that fine of control in some of the more technical corners.

As far as tube diameter goes that just applies to the cam the cables goes around, as far as I know the grip size is the same.
Ah--the R1 throttle tube must have a higher cam so it swings a bigger arch. I suggested no grip if you wanted a little more finesse on the throttle. ...but if your looking for quick WOT, a higher cam would pull the cable from 0% to 100% in fewer degrees of throttle grip rotation. ..and that would be nice for WOT. I think I end up holding the throttle with my fingers rather than my palm.
 
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