Quick disconnect wheelie bars any interest?

jeepinocala

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I am considering making some prototype wheelie bar quick connect/disconnect and may even fold up wheelie bar brackets for those quick weekend races anyone interested in this?
 
Thanks, but I'd rather learn proper clutch/throttle technique.
 
I understand some of the negativity toward a bar on a busa, but what about the guys who want to run NHRA brackets and other Pro ET style classes on a Busa? A non-bar bike simply will not be as consistent and as competitive as a bar bike. There is no sense in banishing or putting these guys down that want to run a bar as long as they are disclosing the use when comparing times/results.
 
I understand some of the negativity toward a bar on a busa, but what about the guys who want to run NHRA brackets and other Pro ET style classes on a Busa? A non-bar bike simply will not be as consistent and as competitive as a bar bike. There is no sense in banishing or putting these guys down that want to run a bar as long as they are disclosing the use when comparing times/results.

i hear ya, and it still takes talent to learn throttle/clutch with a bar bike, although there are computers for this, still takes talent.
 
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i hear ya, and it still takes talent to learn throttle/clutch with a bar bike, although there are computers for this, still takes talent.

+1 on this....most bracket racers now run a delay box with multiple timers that can control launch timing and advance timing down track as well as shift the bike...apply and shut off nitrous. I feel wheelie bars would make a bike more inconsistant...they dont always react the same. Sometimes a bike hooks great goes back on the bar and it unloads the rear suspension causing a very dangerous wheel spin. Bars will work great if you plan on running a square drag slick and set the chassis up to leave on the bar. As far as a street tire or soft compound track tire..it seems a little dangerous to me. Im not bashin anyone for the idea of running the bars...it seems like a great idea but its not very safe...in my opinion. Pingel has made these bars for years and they have run into this same problem....bars only belong on all out race bikes with full race chassis and suspension
 
I was looking at this one with interest this weekend.

KirksBusa.jpg
 
I did the same on myt swb R1. They'll worko on a bike with a strut or if they're mounted and stiff enough to keep the rear end from squatting, otherwise they WILL NOT WORK. On a working rear suspension, as soon as you transfer weight to the bars and the chassis continues to rise it WILL unload the rear tire unless the chassis is sooo stiff it allows no compression. Ask me how I know, I've got pictures and videos somewhere... :(
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I did the same on myt swb R1. They'll worko on a bike with a strut or if they're mounted and stiff enough to keep the rear end from squatting, otherwise they WILL NOT WORK. On a working rear suspension, as soon as you transfer weight to the bars and the chassis continues to rise it WILL unload the rear tire unless the chassis is sooo stiff it allows no compression. Ask me how I know, I've got pictures and videos somewhere... :(
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Lol....the pucker factor!!! been there done that!!!:rofl:
 
Yeah, nothin quite like thinkin you're on a rip and all the sudden your REAR tire is 10-12 inches off the pavement!
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Used to get some of that trying to run bars on the street back in the day on my Kaw triple 2 strokes. Had to have the bars' wheels about 3" off the pavement to turn at all but when ya launch ya had to rock it back on the bar very gently or you'd do what we called "riding a f'ing jackrabbit"- not fun!
 
I"d like to see the proto type, It would have to be very stout. I"ve been running a bar for three years. Its not just some thing you can bolt on and go. There is no getting around the strut. It must be dead level, and a the right height. the list goes on. Get it right, and you can luanch at 9000rpm on the two step and dump the clutch:laugh: I dig it!
 
I"d like to see the proto type, It would have to be very stout. I"ve been running a bar for three years. Its not just some thing you can bolt on and go. There is no getting around the strut. It must be dead level, and a the right height. the list goes on. Get it right, and you can luanch at 9000rpm on the two step and dump the clutch:laugh: I dig it!

Doesnt seem to be of enough interest, you see I own a cnc prototype shop and once in a while I look for a new idea to build and possibly produce, until a company takes it over, but first thing is to check the interest. I will check back to see if it ends up being worth while, and yeah there is no worrie about it being stout or accurite I am a certified tig welder/medical and have been in the medical tooling field for 22years and have a shop that can hold tolerances of .0005 and better. It is just that time where my ongoing projects are all complete and I am looking for another project. This is my hobby regular job is medical/tooling.
 
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