Question for anybody who has used a motionpro syncpro.

Easy way to think of it for me, is left, right middle. Idle throughout. One thing that I do is try to capture first reading at start and sound/feel - that way the difference can be discerned.

1+2 left 3+4 right 3+7 (add then together) in the middle.
Hey, my way of remembering works for me.

I am not familiar with a calibration procedure? I use mercurystix - plug and pull... what did you have to do?

That's the way I did it and it worked great.
1&2 (left screw)
then 3&4 (right screw)
Then the middle screw for left and right pairs.

Hey motomc1, I think you are very close with the pic you posted.
I don't think they will ever be exactly equal.
They are probably way better than when you started?
 
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That's exactly how I TRIED to do it. That's how it is in "jinksters how to sync" thread. not quite as simple as it seems in my case anyway. I synced 1 and 2 using the left screw as instructed. When I sync 3 and 4 using the right screw...1 and 2 become slightly out of sync?
 
That's exactly how I TRIED to do it. That's how it is in "jinksters how to sync" thread. not quite as simple as it seems in my case anyway. I synced 1 and 2 using the left screw as instructed. When I sync 3 and 4 using the right screw...1 and 2 become slightly out of sync?

Yeah I had to go back and forth about 3 times for them to settle down.
Mine looked like yours does now so I would take it for a spin and see how it feels.,
 
I'm gonna hook it up one more time tomorrow then button'er up and see how she does. I'll post up again tomorrow. thks everybody
 
That's exactly how I TRIED to do it. That's how it is in "jinksters how to sync" thread. not quite as simple as it seems in my case anyway. I synced 1 and 2 using the left screw as instructed. When I sync 3 and 4 using the right screw...1 and 2 become slightly out of sync?
Because you're changing the air rate to those cylinders thus causing a slight change in the engine. As said before I match 2-1, 3-2, 4-3, at 1500RPM, always compare those you've already adjusted to 1 since it's your base, and readjust the RPM after every change.
 
Orpheus, if I am understanding you correctly, you adjust 1-2 with the farleft screw...and then 2-3 with the middle screw...and then 3-4 with the far right screw. In this order. Is this correct? thks
 
You should start with the TB that has the idle adjustment. I call that number 1, then count right to left, right being if you were sitting on the bike. It's really simple, least it has been for me.

1. Set the base idle to 1500. That smooths out the idle some, spec idle is too rough for a good vacuum reading. Check reading on 1.

2. Using the screw between 1 and 2 match number 2 with number 1. Readjust idle speed cause it probably changed, and double check 1 and 2, tweak as necessary. Blip throttle, but not much you'll risk sucking in the liquid. Blipping the throttle after each change settles it in, that's why it changes after it gets put together, a lot of folks don't do that. Check idle speed.

3. Match 3 to 2 the same way. Blip throttle, tweak idle again, then double check it with 1 and 2. Tweak as necessary, check idle speed.

4. Match 4 to 3. Blip throttle, tweak idle again, and double check them. They should all now be within 1" of each other.

Consistent smooth idle speed is the key, blipping moves things to just like they are when you ride, it settles things in and does make a difference. Set idle to spec, and ride it!
 
So you consider the far right hand TB (where the idle is) as number 1 when you are sitting on the bike? Then the far left as 2?
 
Far right with the idle screw is one, so you're correct there. The next one to the left is two, next one over, three, last one with the TPS, four.

Reason I work right to left is say you turn the screw for number two. You also open three and four. You turn the screw for three, you also change four. That's why I don't subscribe to set 2-1, then 4-3, then 3-2. They're not siamese twins, they're separate units.
 
So after matching 1-2 with the far right screw...you match 3-2 with the middle screw...and then 4-3 with the far left screw? thks again
 
Far right with the idle screw is one, so you're correct there. The next one to the left is two, next one over, three, last one with the TPS, four.

Reason I work right to left is say you turn the screw for number two. You also open three and four. You turn the screw for three, you also change four. That's why I don't subscribe to set 2-1, then 4-3, then 3-2. They're not siamese twins, they're separate units.

My Clymer and Haynes manuals describe adjusting the left 2 with the left screw, then the right 2 with the right screw, then the 2 pairs together with the middle screw.
I don't know if your way is easier.
I will try it next time, but in the end, as long as they are all as equal as you can get them, then it is good.
 
Dude that pic you posted is good enough. Its never going to be perfect. Dont expect it to be another bike, its still a hayabusa. Good luck.
 
I am not familiar with a calibration procedure? I use mercurystix - plug and pull... what did you have to do?

The SyncPro uses a blue glycol solution. Prior to each use, one should calibrate columns 2, 3, 4 to #1 using a 4-way vacuum splitter.
 
Welp...no more "phantom knock" through the handlebars and idle surge has settled down. I'm looking forward to the next sync....NOT! it wouldn't be so bad if it wasn't still summer here in Texas! Thanks for all the imput and help guys.
 
This is as close as I could get it after an hour of adjustments. This is idling between 1300-1400 rpm's. The bike still doesn't seem right...even though I haven't put it back together yet. I will probably try to iron it out some more tomorrow. thks to all

Dude, that's as perfect as it gets.

Bolt it all back together and go ride it now!!!

:laugh:

--Wag--
 
Hey Wag. special thanks to you as it was your "knocking feel in the handlebars" post/thread that helped me solve my problem. cheers
 
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