Question about soupys adjustable rear lowering dogbone links

cyclefarm

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I scored a set of used adjustable Soupy's rear lowering links on ebay. Look like new but I can't adjust them to fully collapsed. I think they need to be fully screwed together for stock height, which I will want at times. On both, the left hand ends will not fully screw in. They get VERY tight with about 5/8" threads left. No sign of former loctite, but on one side the left hand threads have a flat spot for a ways (looks like it was built that way, not shiny but anodized even on flat portion). Right hand threads are great.

Questions:

1. Am I correct that fully collapsed is stock height? Should be about 4 11/16" fully compressed?

2. They should screw together fully, correct? Something is wrong with mine?

3. If I want to lower the rear 1", do I extend them about 1/4" from fully collapsed?

Thanks!
 
I dont have Soupys I have roaring toyz (same setup)
Yes I had to cut the threads in order for mine to also be same as stock suspension. Why do they design em this way I dont know either all I know is I knew I had to cut some of the threads in order to screw em further to have stock height or even raise it over stock height.
 
1. Am I correct that fully collapsed is stock height? Should be about 4 11/16" fully compressed?

Thanks!

On my Gen1 Stock length from end to end is 5 3/4" I know this because I replaced them with shorter dog bones to raise the rear 1". I thought Soupys were supposed to be able to raise the rear 1" as well which would explain the fully collapsed length you report.
 
I was measuring from eye center-to-center more like 4 3/4", overall outside length collapsed would be around 6" on mine. Tough to be exact cause can't collapse mine.

I think the raising links are shorter than regular, soupys make both. Not sure what I have.

Guess I will try to chase the threads with a 1/2-20 left hand die if I can find one.

Thanks for input.
 
im about to install my links sunday. is it clockwise or counterclock to raise? I haven't messed around with em yet but just curious which way lowers it and raises it before I bottom out the tail light on the rear tire cause of stretch ???
 
I was measuring from eye center-to-center more like 4 3/4", overall outside length collapsed would be around 6" on mine. Tough to be exact cause can't collapse mine.

I think the raising links are shorter than regular, soupys make both. Not sure what I have.

Guess I will try to chase the threads with a 1/2-20 left hand die if I can find one.

Thanks for input.

Installed Soupy's on my Gen II and if i remember right they came with a fair amount of threads showing,supposedly already set to stock height of 4 3/4" center to center(which is what my OEM links measured).
 
If you still have them off the bike make sure you get the 2 links equal in length...then mark / mount them so the left / right threads face up or down...it will make adjusting them easier later. Another easy thing to do is stamp /mark the flats on the center section to keep track if you give it an adjustment of a few flats / turns.
 
I have 2 sets of these. The Stock to 4" drop. And the 1/2" over that starts at a 2" drop and goes to 6" I like em. They are well made. The only issue I ran in to was at the fully retracted position. The Jam Nuts touched lightly on both the Cushion Lever and the Swingarm. I beveled all 4 areas and cured that. Yours will probably be fine with a little thread clean up. FYI... Get a good die to clean them. That is a very hard material...
 
Ordered a die on ebay, good advice. The 4 areas that you beveled, were they on the soupys or on the bike? Will it be noticeable as soon as I mount them or just during compression when riding? Did you find about 1/4" extend on links = 1" drop on bike?
Thanks Popie!
 
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Any link, adjustable or not, would break when installed ass-backwards, like the ones in that pic. As shown in the pics, the links are installed with the flat side of the ends facing OUT instead of facing IN, as indicated in the included instructions. This is no different from the stock links that mount as a flat piece. When the links are installed backwards the entire rear suspension's "pivoting" design is voided because the bearings no longer are used. The link is effectively connected straight to the pivot (which obviously "pivots") and uses no bearing. Use no bearings in a system that revolves around the use of them and something will eventually fail.

Actually adjustable lowering links are known to be ridiculously strong, especially ours. They are made from steel and have a 1/2 inch diameter thread.

Please follow the instructions and let a qualified shop do the work if you're inexperienced!
 
Got my thread chaser die from ebay for $10, fixed the threads, fully collapsed and ready to install. They are a little longer than stock links at about 4.9" center to center but I think they will work. I'm not worried about them breaking after i install them correctly, look pretty stout to me. Thanks for all the advice.
 
Got my thread chaser die from ebay for $10, fixed the threads, fully collapsed and ready to install. They are a little longer than stock links at about 4.9" center to center but I think they will work. I'm not worried about them breaking after i install them correctly, look pretty stout to me. Thanks for all the advice.

If you cut 2mm off each thread they will allow you to adjust 1" higher then OEM and still lower your bike a good amount.

*hint*
Leave the nut on when cutting the end of the thread, this way when you unscrew the nut it will fix the thread that may have gotten boogered during the cut
 
Old thread resurrection! How long are the links to raise the rear 1"? I was thinking about checking on parts to make my own links, but I need to know how long they need to be. Shorter is higher, correct? I have three hole lowering links now, and would like to be stock to +1" for riding twisties. Thanks!
 
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