Question about riding with a built motor without turbo installed.

[sbarna992]

Hi family,

So, I have a question. I'm planning on doing doing a 2-step (for financial reasons) turbo build on my 2013 Hayabusa.

Step 1 is is install:
- Studs
- HD valve springs
- Stainless Steel Valves
- Wossner (9:1 compressions) pistons
- Wossner Rods

Step 2 is install:
- RCC turbos stage 1 kit
- HD clutch springs
- BOV
- Water Injection

I'm currently having my transmission undercut, so I figured now is a good time to do the studs, valve springs, valves, pistons and rods. There will however be a 3-4 month gap between building the motor and installing the turbo.

My questions area

1. Are there any potential issues with this approach?
2. Out of curiosity, since the turbo pistons will lower the compression what will be the side effects of this when I ride my bike in the time period between the motor build and the actual turbo install?

Thanks fam and happy safe riding!

 

[ColdBusa]

1. No. It's no different than riding a completed project on the street under vacuum (not revving past the spool point of the turbo to build boost). However, see point 2.
2. You'll see a decrease in power output, but don't think you'll notice it unless you race it set up that way. Time slips will tell that story.

 

[c10]

A bigger loss in power than stated above.
9 to 1 from 13 to 1 is a huge jump . Probably a 20 hp decrease over stock .

 

[202mphbusa]

A bigger loss in power than stated above.
9 to 1 from 13 to 1 is a huge jump . Probably a 20 hp decrease over stock .

I gained about 20 just going from stock compression to 13-1. 1397.

 

[ItsDooomz]

You'll be fine, send it!

 

[c10]

I gained about 20 just going from stock compression to 13-1. 1397.

You went up in cc's the member above did not state he was doing a big bore kit .
Also Stainless valves weigh more / stiffer springs with no boost will rob a small amount of hp over the light Titanium valves , and softer spring rate .

You can of course ride it after the build , but why ? you just lost a good deal of power without boost being present .

Personally would ride bike untouched till all parts /$ for build are ready to go . Then do it all and enjoy fruits of the labor .

 

[202mphbusa]

You went up in cc's the member above did not state he was doing a big bore kit .
Also Stainless valves weigh more / stiffer springs with no boost will rob a small amount of hp over the light Titanium valves , and softer spring rate .

You can of course ride it after the build , but why ? you just lost a good deal of power without boost being present .

Personally would ride bike untouched till all parts /$ for build are ready to go . Then do it all and enjoy fruits of the labor .

My point was more, dropping just the CR should not cost him 20 hp

 

[michael parris heuberger]

Hi family,

So, I have a question. I'm planning on doing doing a 2-step (for financial reasons) turbo build on my 2013 Hayabusa.

Step 1 is is install:
- Studs
- HD valve springs
- Stainless Steel Valves
- Wossner (9:1 compressions) pistons
- Wossner Rods

Step 2 is install:
- RCC turbos stage 1 kit
- HD clutch springs
- BOV
- Water Injection

I'm currently having my transmission undercut, so I figured now is a good time to do the studs, valve springs, valves, pistons and rods. There will however be a 3-4 month gap between building the motor and installing the turbo.

My questions area

1. Are there any potential issues with this approach?
2. Out of curiosity, since the turbo pistons will lower the compression what will be the side effects of this when I ride my bike in the time period between the motor build and the actual turbo install?

Thanks fam and happy safe riding!

Hi Who is cutting the trans? What gearing will you run? What turbo kit? I will be running 10 to 1 JE pistons. You can also run Inconal exhaust valves, a lower 1 st gear and get the trans micripolisher.