I agree. He did get very conservative in regard to timing and fuel as well. A little insurance can go a long way, but can leave some rwhp on the table at the same time . . .
Project update- transformation of my 2004
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I agree. He did get very conservative in regard to timing and fuel as well. A little insurance can go a long way, but can leave some rwhp on the table at the same time . . .
The water injection was a safety item since I wanted longevity while I build my next motor. I was advised that I'd be fine running just the C16, so we did some test pulls to compare the power loss from the C16 vs C16 + water. I'm unsure whether I'll run just C16 on high boost.. C16/93 mix, C16/93 mix + water, or just 93+water. Some data logged highway pulls are in order.
If your not innercooled, water injection is your next best bet to keep combustion temps down. However if you use a water/methanol mix, or straight methanol you'll benefit from lower iats from the methanol dissolving in the charge pipe, and lower combustion temps as well. Methanol (water) injection is effectively high octane on demand. Octane is a fuels resistance to detonating, which also results in it being harder to burn. That's how a lot of supra, GN, and turbo ls guys are able to make so much power on pump gas, they dump a ton of meth.
Now c16 is for big boost. 25 plus. IMO it's "tuners" that don't know turbos, or aren't competent in they're skills that recommend c16. It's a HUGE safety blanket. Like wearing 2 condoms. Even with stock compression, and 10 psi your killing your power. You made 240 on 93, and on 10psi c16 260. It's almost text book ever 1 psi will net you 10hp. C16 costed you 20hp. But then to run c16 and meth, your just killing the burn....and your spark plugs.
Order yourself some boost juice, and slap it back on the dyno with some 93, and put all the timing back in it. You'll see that it runs a lot better, and makes good deal more power.
Oh yeah. VERY conservative.
jermzfree
Registered
Were you running straight H20?
yeah, was straight water.
So.. I've learned some important things over the past few weeks:
1) Aeroquip FCN0620 socketless hose + Jegs push-loc fittings are not as compatible as people say. After installation + heat + c16, even the slightest bend causes the inner liner to separate from the jacket, which will then get pierced and cause flow issues.
2) Earls 35 micron billet fuel filters only flow 75psi reliably. Don't run one after the pump while troubleshooting cavitation issues on your Bosch 044. (Lean / stutters / breaks up over 5k)
3) Bosch 044 is meant to be pump fed. If you are running it as a single pump, have it as low as possible to avoid cavitation.
4) Plastidip instantly disintegrates when it touches fuel, it doesn't make a suitable frame covering.
5) Gauges in the side "dash panels" are absolutely useless. Don't waste your time and money. Buy good, electric sending unit gauges and mount them by the upper triple.
6) If you're doing a DIY build, don't assemble your own fuel lines. Measure and buy precut / crimped stainless braided line that are rated for fuel (especially race gas).
7) Russell makes a 5/16" SAE quick disconnect 6AN fitting that fits the stock fuel pump feed when using it as a return.
8) Loctite your ****ing gas tank bulkhead fitting.
So.. I've learned some important things over the past few weeks:
1) Aeroquip FCN0620 socketless hose + Jegs push-loc fittings are not as compatible as people say. After installation + heat + c16, even the slightest bend causes the inner liner to separate from the jacket, which will then get pierced and cause flow issues.
2) Earls 35 micron billet fuel filters only flow 75psi reliably. Don't run one after the pump while troubleshooting cavitation issues on your Bosch 044. (Lean / stutters / breaks up over 5k)
3) Bosch 044 is meant to be pump fed. If you are running it as a single pump, have it as low as possible to avoid cavitation.
4) Plastidip instantly disintegrates when it touches fuel, it doesn't make a suitable frame covering.
5) Gauges in the side "dash panels" are absolutely useless. Don't waste your time and money. Buy good, electric sending unit gauges and mount them by the upper triple.
6) If you're doing a DIY build, don't assemble your own fuel lines. Measure and buy precut / crimped stainless braided line that are rated for fuel (especially race gas).
7) Russell makes a 5/16" SAE quick disconnect 6AN fitting that fits the stock fuel pump feed when using it as a return.
8) Loctite your ****ing gas tank bulkhead fitting.
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