I thought you got a finer tune with the PC?
You mean finer than a flash? Yes, if you use the PC5 to adjust the fuel table values that were flashed to the ECU. ...but in order to do that, you need to know how much fuel to +/- every cell and for that, you need an O2 sensor and AFR Gauge.
Toby, if you want to know if your map is "good" you can do any of the following:
#1 $200 Go to a highly reputed busa tuner and have them flash your ECU. Keep the PC5 to make adjustments to the flash fueling in the future if you want/need to. You will not notice the difference between a good flash and a custom tune for your bike.
#2 $300 Go to a highly reputed busa tuner and have them custom dyno tune with their equipment and your PC5.
#3 $100-$200 Install a wideband AFR gauge. You will need to weld an O2 sensor bung into your exhaust. I suggest further research to determine exactly which location on the busa exhaust is best for an O2 sensor. If the AFR is between 12 and 13 while running, it's a good tune. Tuners might go richer at lower rpm but generally, 12~13 is a safe indicated AFR for a sport bike at any engine speed and will make the best horse power at high rpm. If you see an AFR of 14 or higher while running, that is a bad sign.
#4 $600 Install a POD300 and Wideband2. You will need to weld in an O2 bung into your exhaust if you do not already have that. The POD300 has an AFR gauge and better yet, it has a data logger. You can look at the data to find .10/second lean spots you would never see on an AFR gauge. I've used this setup to road tune my ZX-14 and it worked. It is a lot of learning just to get the basics however. It is also very dangerous to tune at high rpm on the road. Several top speed runs to get the whole map. After all was said and done, not really any better than the base map I started with.