Power Commander V...Worth it?

PMW717

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2017 with K&N and Brock's slip on. Worth it or not?

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No. Not unless you plan to go with a full system and even then, those usually run fine on stock fueling. I feel better having my fuel management modules on my bikes with full systems. I don't worry about any dangerous fueling if there is any.

Good maps are not very easy to come by these days either. Everyone is going with flashing and maps aren't out there for grabs like they were ten years ago. If you think you'd be into self tuning on the road, a PC5 is a great way to go but plan on buying the full setup. Wideband2 and PC5 to start. Ignition module and POD300 sometime down the road. A TRE to keep it one gear map would also be useful. As for tuning on the road, expect to be doing several runs to top speed if you want to tune the whole map. I couldn't stomach it. I got to 180 on my 14 and that was risky enough for me on the road. Good way to go to jail.

If you plan to flash, ask the tuner if he recommends a PC5. Sometimes they do.
 
I disagree. My Gen2 was a MONSTER with a PCV and a full system. It transformed that bike. A PCV alone would make a difference, but with a full system, it really will. If you can afford Autotune it works fantastic.
 
I don't want to butt heads here too much but Autotue or WB2 doesn't do squat for tuning the whole map unless you use it properly. It will tune for cruising on the spot but every time you roll off the throttle, all those cells you cross get changed by Autotune as it winds down through them. It is WAYYYY too slow to maintain a perfect AFR as quickly as would be necessary to just ride the bike and let Autotune do the work. It won't hurt much if you have your trims set low enough but it isn't helping either. It works when you maintain a steady throttle position as you do when you cruise. It will perfect your AFR while you cruise at any TP but it takes 5 seconds or so to do it. How much do you cruise when you're sport riding? Almost not at all.

When you tune with Autotune, the way to do it is to start at as low of an rpm as you can and snap to whatever TP you want to tune. Then let the rpm climb to redline and literally let the throttle spring shut or flip the Autotune switch to off if you have that set up. You don't want to pass through any of the cells on the map you just gathered trims for or you will screw the trims up. Save the trims you gathered and do the same run again a few more times. You will eventually see all of your trims for the TP you are tuning are 0 or +/-1. You are done then. Save trims and and your work is safe. DO NOT accept trims when you are "just riding the bike." You can leave Autotune enabled all thetime if you want. Autotune can't permanently save any trims it comes up with by itself unless you save them. Your perfect map will remain as it was. Turn Autotune off after tuning if you want. It is good for cruising but after you have tuned as described, your AFR isn't going to be far off at any TP unless you change altitude. If you leave Autotune enabled and look at the trims table, I doubt very much you will see very many 0s or +/-1s. You need to use Autotune methodically to get that.

Other AFR tuning devices that cost way more money are much faster than Autotune and they actually will keep the AFR very steady under any conditions. They sample 300x/second where Autune samples 10x/second. That is why you need to simplify things for Autotune and also do multiple runs to allow it to close in on the perfect AFR. If your bike is run on a dyno, I think the tuner will have a similar approach to what I just described.
 
So you see why a TRE that locks you in one gear map is advantageous. If you make a map, you don't want that map getting thrown off by the 6 fuel tables the bike has in its ECU. One fuel table in the ECU for one PC5 map created with Autotune is simple and effective for all gears. You can tune by gear if you want but I haven't tried that. I run all ECU gear maps adjusted by one PC5 map and it works fine. It would be pretty hard to see how far off the fueling is in every gear without examining data logs. I don't see anything alarming when I look at my AFR gauge but it might be off by one or two numbers at times. With a TRE, I expect it would be very close in all gears, TPs and RPM.

I know, TMI. The takehome is that Autotune works for cruising but you have to make it work to tune the entire map, about 95% of which is not in the cruising zone.
 
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Your probably fine if your just a causal rider. But if like to do some highway bombs you should get it tuned. Power commander is a good product but for a gen 2 it’s not the best. Cause you have need to buy 2 products to tune the bike. As the power commander only tunes the lower injectors. Plus ecu flash does wake the bike up a lot. Personally I would have someone tune it Thur the ecu. If you want it tuned and done right. Rob at boosted cycle performance does great work. If your to far from him search for someone closer that can do ecu tuning. But if your just a laid back rider just rock it as is.
 
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