Pitiful Busa Owner

rdj6107

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I am calling my self out as the pitiful owner. I have a 2008 that I purchased brand new. I have 1869 miles on it. i keep stabil in it and keep the battery charged. this year i have vowed to ride it more. i dropped it off at the shop yesterday for an oil change and to address a recalled part. when i got the bike, i put a 6over, chromed the factory wheels and put a set of shorty slip ons on the busa. my problem is, the slip ons look cool but are extremely loud, almost Harley Davidson like. i want to swap the slip ons for a full 4 2 1 system. i have eyeballing an M4 system. i recently came across Black Widow Exhausts. Any thoughts on their systems?? What power commander is recommended for the Busa. thanks for your input.
 
Black Widow stuff is cheap but reasonably good. Not up to the quality of Akro or M4 but you get what you pay for.
 
I wouldnt think you'd need a powercommander , it's not as tho your gonna get heaps of HP from a zorst or burn ya motor up
unless you want to run your bike flat out everywhere then maybe.
 
I'd hate to be the bad guy here, but you said that it's a 2008 and it only has less than 1900 miles on it. You need to leave the bike alone or turn it into a show bird. If you haven't ridden it and enjoyed the bike's energy, why would you put a lot of money into it now.
 
Agree, powercommander only helps if you start it, sorry jmo. Ride it for a while and see how it feels then decide.
 
Hate to beat a dead horse here, but if you want the air/fuel to be correct, add a PC and get your bike custom dyno tuned. If you don't care, just ride it the way it is and be happy :banana:
 
Yeah if you do slipons maybe no PC needed. But a full exhaust and you need it. Now someone will post that they have been riding for years without the right A/F mixture. Maybe they are telling the truth and maybe they don't even have a Busa and are posing? I doubt the guys who fried their bike are going to admit they needed a PC with a new full exhaust! Lol! Face it a PC and a dyno tune is not that much money. Personally, I would recommend a good dyno tune even on a stock bike. You may not get a big HP boost but the stock tune is not as smooth and clean as the engine can run.
 
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I have run all my Busas with the same generic flash map and they run great. Guess what? Doing a map compare I find the only tuning done on this map is the full throttle stuff at higher rpms. I did wear out a set of rings on one bike ... after 9 years and 4000 passes at the drag strip. I've flashed this tune into lots of bikes with good results on the street and strip.

My recommendation: Put the exhaust on and decide if you need any fueling changes or not. Flash would be preferred. There are plenty of Powercommanders around used if you want to go that route. It might cost no more to just see what exhaust you like from Brock and get his tune with it if you are going to pay for exhaust and tune anyway.
 
Brock's tunes are not all that, and the same goes for a generic flash. The reality of it is that without checking the actual air/fuel on a dyno, you have no idea what is going on, no matter what you "feel". A custom map entails checking and correcting afr at 2%, 5%, 20%, 15%, 20% throttle, right on up to 100%, and through every rpm. Every target in the entire fuel map is checked and corrected. Properly done, the bike is smoother, has better throttle response, more torque, more overall power everywhere and better mpg. It can even eliminate any decel popping that may be going on. Most customers relate a "night and day" difference. Then again, there are a lot of "hack" tuners out there, and I may not know what I am talking about, anyway. This topic has been beat to death, and everyone has their opinion. Mine is based on 17+ years of dyno tuning the right way. To each his own!:bowdown:
 
Brock's tunes are not all that, and the same goes for a generic flash. The reality of it is that without checking the actual air/fuel on a dyno, you have no idea what is going on, no matter what you "feel". A custom map entails checking and correcting afr at 2%, 5%, 20%, 15%, 20% throttle, right on up to 100%, and through every rpm. Every target in the entire fuel map is checked and corrected. Properly done, the bike is smoother, has better throttle response, more torque, more overall power everywhere and better mpg. It can even eliminate any decel popping that may be going on. Most customers relate a "night and day" difference. Then again, there are a lot of "hack" tuners out there, and I may not know what I am talking about, anyway. This topic has been beat to death, and everyone has their opinion. Mine is based on 17+ years of dyno tuning the right way. To each his own!:bowdown:

Typo - 2%, 5%, 10&, 15%, 20%, 40, 60, 80 and 100% and from 1,000 rpm to redline . . . .:race:
 
I installed the Black Widow on my 2008, the header and cans are excellent, very high quality workmanship, really like how it looked on my bike, easy installation, no problems, however, I didn't like the sound. Its a bargain, paid under $520.00 that included shipping from UK to Hawaii, all stainless steel. The inside diameter is smaller compared to the Yoshimura. So I kept the header pipes but bought a used Yoshimura R77 can, cut it 4" and bought a stainless steel pipe adapter to fit to the Black Widow's header pipe. The idle sound is awesome, has a lopping hotrod sound, however, once its warmed up, the sound goes away, most likely not the race cans & I would assume there is a big difference in the sound level and diameter of inside pipe (anyone has the inside diameter pipe measurement of the race version?). Anyway, I like the Yoshimura's better, but if you are getting them, buy the race not street version. I wouldn't recommend the Black Widow, unless you want a really quiet exhaust that is slightly louder than stock & gain a few more horses, or your short on cash & want a full system (just a note: when I bought the bike last year, it had the Yoshimura dual Slip On's which I sold to buy the Black Widow, because the stock header had the catalytic converter, the power level was no where near the Black Widow's, FYI). Aloha & ride safe.
 
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I installed the Black Widow on my 2008, the header and cans are excellent, very high quality workmanship, really like how it looked on my bike, easy installation, no problems, however, I didn't like the sound. Its a bargain, paid under $520.00 that included shipping from UK to Hawaii, all stainless steel. The inside diameter is smaller compared to the Yoshimura. So I kept the header pipes but bought a used Yoshimura R77 can, cut it 4" and bought a stainless steel pipe adapter to fit to the Black Widow's header pipe. The idle sound is awesome, has a lopping hotrod sound, however, once its warmed up, the sound goes away, most likely not the race cans & I would assume there is a big difference in the sound level and diameter of inside pipe (anyone has the inside diameter pipe measurement of the race version?). Anyway, I like the Yoshimura's better, but if you are getting them, buy the race not street version. I wouldn't recommend the Black Widow, unless you want a really quiet exhaust that is slightly louder than stock & gain a few more horses, or your short on cash & want a full system (just a note: when I bought the bike last year, it had the Yoshimura dual Slip On's which I sold to buy the Black Widow, because the stock header had the catalytic converter, the power level was no where near the Black Widow's, FYI). Aloha & ride safe.
Someone asked for additional info because he was attempting to do a mod to his exhaust system. It was sent to me on a conversation & couldn't upload any pictures so I am resending it on this site. Anyway, I mated the reducer adapter which I bought via ebay (takes long to receive as its coming from china, quality is good & inexpensive). I cut it on both ends to fit up, its a perfect fit to the Black Widow Headers, tight fit & slides right in, there are no springs attached, haven't had any problems with movement or air leaks. Without the reducer, I modified a left side Brock's muffler to fit on my right side (it had to be flipped over, see photo, there are 2 rivets on the right side between the hanger clamp, that's where the Brock plate was previously), which was cut about 4", the inner perforated tubing is only 2" & don't really care for the soft sound which I repacked, so I ordered a 2.5" perforated tubing & plan on pulling out the 2", modifying the 2.5" to fit-up with the end pieces and see if it sounds & performs better, hope this helps.

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