Pazzo Clearance problem

Im really glad you posted that Steve, looks like its hitting the same spot. The Pazzo guys have decided to keep the same levers as for the K7 but they clearly need a re-design.

I'm taking mine back and getting my money back - that's a bit shocking really.

I dont want any chance of my front brake coming on when im doing slow speed manouvering
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I'm having the SAME problems, i've tried two different sets of levers, and both hit the inner plastics! I do have "Brocks" top triple tree plate, which it still hit with my "stock" one too.....but now i cant even turn all the way to lock the steering ??? PLEASE HELP, any others having this issue? Thx
 
You've tried to angle down the lever a bit?

I'm also wondering the same thing. The levers can be rotated on the handlebar, plus moved in and out a bit if you loosen the two screws on the insturment cluster. That help any?
 
In both pictures it looks like levers almost horizontal, I have no idea how you can ride like that. My levers rotated down, approximately 45 degrees. Rule of thumb is that palm should be as straight as possible.
 
I had EXACTLY the same situation on mine, but my wife's Pazzo's fit perfectly. Go figure.

Anyway, the levers have a little more meat than the stockers at the pivot point, and they end up being closer to the inner panels than stock levers. There is a fix, and you may not want to hear it.

I tried to shift the switch housings and bar around, but it still hit. I didn't want Helibars, Genmars, Converti-bars, or any other gizmos. I like my bars where they are, thank you. I was not about to go back to stock, so I played around with the adjustment cam in the Pazzo levers. Long story short, you can get the ADJUSTER lever to stop hitting by flipping the cam. Be aware that the cam profile is really designed to work one way, so this fix isn't the best, but it works.

If the lever of the body hits, the fix is actually simple...Sort of. You need to do a couple of things here, and if you get lucky, you'll be done in about 10 minutes. You need to remove the inner panels and get to the innermost push rivets and the JIS screw (there are no Philips screws on your bike, they are JIS screws-use the right tool!) under the upper inner panel, nearest the gauge pod. Get on in there, and see if you can manipulate the inner covers to sit more flush, replace everything and test it out. If you are lucky (some people just are), the lever will clear the inner cover. If not, I suggest that you gird your loins for a cowl wrestling match.

Pull the lower cowl on the offending side, and the inner panels, and you may, or may not need to yank the wind screen. Once you have access to the upper cowl's mounting hardware, loosen the fasteners, and pull/push the cowl forward gently. Snug up the hardware, and install the upper inner covers and test. Don't panic, it's a hit-or-miss adjustment. You may be better off yanking both lower panels, and leaving the upper cowl on. That method exposes EVERYTHING that the upper cowl mounts to, and lets you visualize exactly where you need to move the cowl. Bear in mind that you won't have tons of adjustment with the cowl, but for every incremental move you make on the cowl, you are also adjusting where the inner panels will end up.

It sounds like a lot of labor just to get a pair of levers to fit. Trust me, once they line up perfectly, you'll love your Pazzo levers, and curse the sadistic engineers at Suzuki.

I'm sorry it my description is confusing. If anybody has any questions, PM me. If I have the time when I get back from my upcoming road trip, I'll try and post up a better explanation of my fix, with photos.
 
Wow, total bummer that y'all are having these fitment issues. Even more disturbing is that some are obviously striking their inner cowls, and others are not.

I had a clearance issue on the brake-side upon initially installing the Pazzos, but a slight rotation down, violia, no more striking! That said, I also have Heli-Bars, so, I suspect this helps out the situation in my case.
 
I've been thinking about those levers.

Can they be adjusted any closer to the bars than the stock ones? If so, how close can you get them?

I have Helibars and have about 5/8" clearance from the stock lever to the fairings. Is that enough?
 
I have Helibars and have about 5/8" clearance from the stock lever to the fairings. Is that enough?

Yes. At least, it proved to have sufficient clearance on my K8 with HeliBars...

Can they be adjusted any closer to the bars than the stock ones? If so, how close can you get them?

Not 100% sure, since I haven't used my stock levers very much.

Here, try these comparison shots.... the top photo is the clutch-side Pazzo on my K8, with it set in the furthest *out* position (setting #5). The second photo is the same Pazzo, adjusted for the furtherest *in* position (setting #1):

PAZZO-OUT.jpg


PAZZO-IN.jpg
 
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Thanks for the pics. If I may impose a little further....... Can you provide a measurement at a right angle from the bar to the closest point on the lever? Please.... Those things are to expensive for me to take a blind leap.
 
Well guys, THANK YOU ALL very much for the replys and help:bowdown:, BUT i think im SCREWED.....like i said earlier, when the stock triple tree top plate was on, it did just barely,BUT DID HIT. I was still able to lock my steering. NOW, that i have the Brocks triple tree plate(moves the bars even closer), the brake lever hits so bad i cant even lock the steering!:banghead::cursin: i've tried two different sets....SAME THING!
BTW, YES, i've tried to adjust these damn things every which way possible, and i guess there's no way around it ??? No nice levers for these fingers :boohoo: .....DAMMIT! ANYWAYS, Thx again guys for the help.
 
My ASV levers just kiss the plastic too. Guess there's not much room to play with and slight bodywork manufacturing tolerances.

But why on earth would lowering the bike make a difference???
 
My ASV levers just kiss the plastic too. Guess there's not much room to play with and slight bodywork manufacturing tolerances.

But why on earth would lowering the bike make a difference???

i dont think its the "lowering" that's causing the problem, its the fact that you gotz(or at least most people do)to change out your top triple tree plate to after market....ie; brocks,ape,spencer cycles, ect....So the fork tubes can slide through. And by doing so, it takes and moves the "bar" placement forward about 3/8"-1/2" and cause's the levers to hit "BAD"! I guess you could go with the "genmar" set up, and would not have as big of an issue....wait, well then you would be moving the bars higher!.....So you STILL would more than likely have a problem:banghead: OH HELL, i dont know, im tired of d!cking with these's damn things. They just need to actually design the RIGHT LEVER for the 08's and quit trying to sell GEN1's that obviously are NOT fitting correctly!!!
 
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