PAGING JOHNNY CHEESE

rubbersidedown

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hey Johhny , have you ever installed a Hindle Full Titanium system ? I'm having only moderate success thus far . The nearest dyno is a hundred clicks away,so I'm hoping to "Backyard Bob" the thing , till I can get up there .
I've got zero power down low ( I know that I can expect some loss down low, but not this much , its a street system,not race,or full race.) I've also got a serious hiccup @ 3000 RPM.
Here's the map I'm goofin with right now, its installed and in , and I've gone 1 click to the rich on the mid,with the manual control .
She's a 2000 GSX1300R
stock air box,stock cleaner
stock motor
no TRE I'm using a PC II.

Anyone have a thought....anyone have a sweet map for this particular application...
THX fer readin' Johhny.....RSD.
P.S. no fouled plugs or bad this or that....
she runs MINT with the stock pipe an' cans.

newest_map_I.jpg
 
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something is not right with that map it has nothing in the 2%.
I just got home I will check tomorrow if I have something.
The 3K-5% on the MP map is to high to do anything try adding 10 to the AAP map at 3K 5% to see if the hickup is gone
 
thank you Johnny.....figured you were the man for the job.

U R Da' man.....thx Johnny C
 
something is not right with that map it has nothing in the 2%.
I just got home I will check tomorrow if I have something.
The 3K-5% on the MP map is to high to do anything try adding 10 to the AAP map at 3K 5% to see if the hickup is gone
its kind of odd eh Johnny... theres one change at 8 for the manifold pressure...but nuthin' for barometric pressure till the next step .
I havent messed with ignition timing or throttle position sensor , I think this system shouldnt (hopefully) require any alterations there , certainly not ignition anyway.
Thats my feeling . I'm usin' mid-grade right now...I was doin' a little experiment , when I decided to slap the Hindle on.
So I'm runnin' pump 89....just so ya know...

thanks dude....

ps... why does Dynojet call it a AAP map section....
the others make sense....
TP=throttle position
MP=manifold pressure
Ign=ignition
I just dont see how they get baro press sens.. outa AAP

hav a good night.....RSD.
 
something is not right with that map it has nothing in the 2%.
I just got home I will check tomorrow if I have something.
The 3K-5% on the MP map is to high to do anything try adding 10 to the AAP map at 3K 5% to see if the hickup is gone
its kind of odd eh Johnny... theres one change at 8 for the manifold pressure...but nuthin' for barometric pressure till the next step .
                I havent messed with ignition timing or throttle position sensor , I think this system shouldnt (hopefully) require any alterations there , certainly not ignition anyway.
Thats my feeling .   I'm usin' mid-grade right now...I was doin' a little experiment , when I decided to slap the Hindle on.
 So I'm runnin' pump 89....just so ya know...

  thanks dude....

    ps... why does Dynojet call it a AAP map section....
               the others make sense....
                  TP=throttle position
                  MP=manifold pressure
                  Ign=ignition
 I just dont see how they get baro press sens.. outa AAP

   hav a good night.....RSD.
call me
 
You have a system to get the exhaust out, you need a free-flow air filter to get the air in...
biggrin.gif
 
You have a system to get the exhaust out, you need a free-flow air filter to get the air in...
biggrin.gif
I was thinkin' that same thing aswell...guess its K&N time
I was reading that the BMC racing filter is better than K&N...

Does anyone else have an opinion on this?
hey Barnicle...you OK man? you dont seem quite yerself .

You have'nt stopped going to counselling have you...

And remember what the doctor said about quitting that medication...

SERIOUSLY , Rippah....you just seem so technical all of a sudden .
Everything cool ?

........................RSD .
 
talkin with one of the fastest guys in Seattle today... the bmc race filter got him 3hp more than the k&n. the k&n gave him NO gain from stock paper. real numbers. you add ram air to that, it is more.


My K&N will be on ebay after Laguna.
 
You have a system to get the exhaust out, you need a free-flow air filter to get the air in...
biggrin.gif
I was thinkin' that same thing aswell...guess its K&N time
I was reading that the BMC racing filter is better than K&N...

Does anyone else have an opinion on this?
hey Barnicle...you OK man?   you dont seem quite yerself .

 You have'nt stopped going to counselling have you...

   And remember what the doctor said about quitting that medication...

   SERIOUSLY , Rippah....you just seem so technical all of a sudden .
             Everything cool ?

          ........................RSD .
( :

Everything A-okay...

Me just doing some hard studying on the bus.

I like to know mucho grande about my toys, and I am spending time learning bro.

I am a little bummed about not climbing Rainier... But, I will do it soon!

-The Rippah
 
Hey RSD,

BE WARNED! The BMC "race" filter will not fit a stock airbox. There is a lip on the bottom of the airbox the stock sized filters slide over to center it. You have to cut this lip off so the race filter will fit all the way down. The problem is that the inside of the filter is smaller in diameter then stock.

I did a small airbox mod when I installed the filter. I took a dremmel tool and a small rotory rasp bit and cut through the bottom of the box just outside of the lip. This takes out the flapper and the tube it fits in. The filter has a foam gasket on the bottom. It is squeezed between the bottom of the airfilter and the bottom of the airbox. So stay close to the lip when you cut it off so the gasket has somthing to seal against. You could leave the flapper by grinding just the lip off the bottom, but that would be a lot more work and you would have the flapper restriction on airflow at the higher RPMs. That would defeat your intent to improve airflow by buying a race filter?

I learned about the BMC on this board. It came highly recommended from everyone.The race filter is good. No regrets.

This is only half of it though. You will not get the 3 extra HP without tuning. Stock mixture is already lean in the lower RPM ranges. Adding the exhaust and race filter will really let the engine breath and lean you out even more over the entire RPM range. Without tuning, the HP will actually drop with these mods. So for anyone thinking of doing these types of mods, they have to think about how they are going to control the mixture and plan to buy a unit to control it. There are many ways to do it, but it needs to happen when you make the mods or it will disappoint you.
 
Serria is correct it will run slight worse at low speeds,
but better at some aswell due to the fuel map is in a rich/lean condtion through out the rpm and TPS range.

The 3 Hp gain is due to the HP reading is at 100% throttle
this also can be done by removal of air filter.
BUT......
Great for the drag strip.
Bad for everyday riding espceially in the desert or saltwater areas.
If I did and airbox again (I don't have one now... BOOST)
I would do a small box mod but remove the airfilter and lay Unifoam prefilter like in a big box mod
kickass.gif
 
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