overheating - unusual cause but maybe not

[spotrot]

My 2004 started overheating when idling or at stop lights. but the reservoir level was fine and the fans came on on time.

I searched the forum and came up with lots of useful info, especially about how critical it is to bleed all the air out of the system and how to best do it.

Also a number of members noted issues with the cap radiator sealing and that made sense because air should not have gotten drawn into the system. Plus the level in the reservoir didn't seem to change. The rubber sealing area on my cap was a little eroded so I bought a nearly new cap. (Hey, the bike's 15 years old, I didn't want the other parts to get jealous.)

After a run on a hot day, I let it idle for 10 minutes and saw it dripping coolant from the cap area. I disconnected the reservoir hose from the radiator and blew into it, expecting bubbles in the reservoir but no air would pass. Expecting the hose to be pinched somewhere, I disconnected it from the reservoir but the hose was fine.

The bottom of the reservoir was plugged solid. I guess bits of aluminum or other material eventually settled at the bottom and became glued together. I removed the plastic reservoir (2 screws) and cleaned it with soap and a long wire. All better now.

Then I thought that this could be a common problem, and maybe it's the reason many people thought their caps were bad.

Therefore this post -- in case it helps someone.

[Suzuki should have made the hose port start up a little on the side instead of at the very bottom]

 

[Berlin Germany]

the location where the temp feeler is originally mounted is not the best choice

have a look where i and lots of buddies moved it.

after that never again we had any issues with water temp - even at 39°C / 102°F here in town + stop ´n go over half an hour.
(feeling like ass cheeks "well done")

the second reason is that this new place saves your head gasket´s live for sure.

clean the radiator
this worst zenario i already have found (pure horror)

if you´re able to understand german read the entire site at

Temperaturfühler versetzen

 

[Kiwi Rider]

the location where the temp feeler is originally mounted is not the best choice

have a look where i and lots of buddies moved it.

after that never again we had any issues with water temp - even at 39°C / 102°F here in town + stop ´n go over half an hour.
(feeling like ass cheeks "well done")

View attachment 1617183

the second reason is that this new place saves your head gasket´s live for sure.

clean the radiator
this worst zenario i already have found (pure horror)

View attachment 1617184

View attachment 1617185

if you´re able to understand german read the entire site at

Temperaturfühler versetzen

Thanks for posting that info Frank, that green gunk in the radiator tank is a shock horror to see!
I like where you mounted the thermoswitch for the fan, very good, so it works well then? Where did you get the metal block housing for the switch?

 

[Berlin Germany]

Thanks for posting that info Frank, that green gunk in the radiator tank is a shock horror to see! (...)

for the shock i showed the pics - here and at my site
and dear - it was NOT a "tank" ,
but the radiator itself and that was the big big horror - the rad. more or less got partially blocked in its work by this "gunk" and the temp rose to sky - red light came alight - so head gasket was in biggest danger damn maintenance bitch back then

(...)
I like where you mounted the thermoswitch for the fan, very good, so it works well then?(...)

with very best results you ever may think - it saves the head gasket´s live for dozens of times
and if you wanna increase that behavior you buy the other feeler from the suzuki burgmann (scooter) with switch-point of 95-98°C instead of the haya´s with 105-108°C
helps a lot to get the fan to work earlier.

(...)Where did you get the metal block housing for the switch?

at very first - this block you only need for the GEN 1 !!! (gen2 is differnet)

i took it off my workshop´s shelf - looooool - (i always have 1-2 sets as reserve )

it´s hard to get because :
the T (the block) you can buy anywhere but they all have a too small inner thread 3/8 or so
the hayabusa gen1 thermo-feeler has M18x1,5 and this combi you nowhere will find.

a good friend of mine produces these blocks on demand (incl. the plug for the radiator and the two pipe/hose clamps)
so what i seriously can offer is to order one set for you (and a number of these sets for somebody else?)
and send them to you by german parcel.
prize per set would be around 62-65 € + ?? € shipping (i have to ask for the prize)

tell me .... ;-)

 

[Kiwi Rider]

@Berlin Germany
OK, so in NZ we call the radiator sides left and right, 'tanks' because they are holding coolant as it flows across the core's fins. So slight language misunderstanding there lol.
That's interesting about the Burgman 'feeler' ( we call them 'thermo SWITCH' here.) That lower temp setting at 95degC is good, but I've never seen my temp gauge needle go above the half way line, even on a 36degC day in slow traffic . . . but I did notice my fan was running continuously for quite some time, but, the gauge was always half way.
So because my cooling system is efficient as it is, I have no need to reposition my thermoswich to the 'T' block in the hose . . but thankyou for your kind offer to source and send one to me.

 

[Berlin Germany]

@Kiwi Rider

yes misunderstanding caused by the language - i say sorry for that.

and while i was writing my post i didn´t remember the "thermo SWITCH" - my brain

 

[Berlin Germany]

(...)
So because my cooling system is efficient as it is, I have no need to reposition my thermoswich to the 'T' block in the hose . . but thankyou for your kind offer to source and send one to me.

lucky guy

i personally built in now that t-block at gen1 i guess 3 dozen times (or more)

around 50% of the owners asked me to do so as a kind of insurance against overheating.

and in the technical view the switch is better placed in the hose,
because placed in the radiator it feels the water temp. after already having been "chilled" down a bit - we guess around 10°C.
by this the water pump send water of 105-108°C to the motor depending on the tolerance the switch have - it differs a bit.
if you put now the same! switch into the hose, the fan again starts at the 105-108°C like before
BUT
now this is the temp. the water have when it is leaving the head.
so the water also get "chilled" - 10°C - and the water pump send back 105(108) - 10 = 95(98) °C to the motor.
this is our reason to move the switch
and maybe even use the other switch with 95 (98) °C,
so that way we get an even bigger "temp. window".
our motto here? better safe than sorry.

because:
we already had to replace too many gen1 head gaskets and even had gen1 cylinder heads to be welded because they had cracks between the spark plug threads from 1to2, 2to3 and 3to4.
not very funny and veeeeeeery expensive,
so (again) - better safe than sorry .
and during the next water replacement (every 2 , max 3 years) it is not such a big amount of more work.

and additional
even when we had moved the switch to the hose,
we took out the switch while water replacement to clean the switch´s measuring surface with fine sand paper (grain ~ 800-1000) - to make the matt measuring surface shine again.
_________________________________________________________

my offer remains - whoever wants to have the tee set should write to me - then I will see what's possible.

 

[202mphbusa]

For a while while running a dual fan setup I had the OEM switch turn on the OEM fan at OEM temps
Switch in the hose is out of a Honda Accord and it turns on 20f sooner

now Just the Accord switch

 

[Kiwi Rider]

lucky guy

i personally built in now that t-block at gen1 i guess 3 dozen times (or more)

around 50% of the owners asked me to do so as a kind of insurance against overheating.

and in the technical view the switch is better placed in the hose,
because placed in the radiator it feels the water temp. after already having been "chilled" down a bit - we guess around 10°C.
by this the water pump send water of 105-108°C to the motor depending on the tolerance the switch have - it differs a bit.
if you put now the same! switch into the hose, the fan again starts at the 105-108°C like before
BUT
now this is the temp. the water have when it is leaving the head.
so the water also get "chilled" - 10°C - and the water pump send back 105(108) - 10 = 95(98) °C to the motor.
this is our reason to move the switch
and maybe even use the other switch with 95 (98) °C,
so that way we get an even bigger "temp. window".
our motto here? better safe than sorry.

because:
we already had to replace too many gen1 head gaskets and even had gen1 cylinder heads to be welded because they had cracks between the spark plug threads from 1to2, 2to3 and 3to4.
not very funny and veeeeeeery expensive,
so (again) - better safe than sorry .
and during the next water replacement (every 2 , max 3 years) it is not such a big amount of more work.

and additional
even when we had moved the switch to the hose,
we took out the switch while water replacement to clean the switch´s measuring surface with fine sand paper (grain ~ 800-1000) - to make the matt measuring surface shine again.
_________________________________________________________

my offer remains - whoever wants to have the tee set should write to me - then I will see what's possible.

Yes, I fully understand the technical benefits, and also appreciate the fact that you have seen many Gen 1 motors overheat and blow headgaskets and crack heads, thanks for sharing this vital information, it is a smart decision to install the T block for 'cheap insurance' .
I'll certainly think this over re your offer to supply the part . . thanks Frank

 

[Berlin Germany]

(...)
I'll certainly think this over re your offer to supply the part . . thanks Frank

send a pm and we´ll see

 

[TallTom]

send a pm and we´ll see

I also sent a PM on this.

 

[Berlin Germany]

I also sent a PM on this.

sent a pm too

 

[Berlin Germany]

i have to leave the house right now - forgot something in my workshop that i have to bring to post office tomorrow.
sorry.
i will come back here in 2-2.5 h
read ya :-)

 

[Berlin Germany]

hey buddies,

the post office put me to hell

they call 55 € for a small package of less than 5 kg / 11 lb to u.s. - pure horror.

that way the shipping is near my costs for one set - makes no sense i guess.
______________________________________________

so try to get the 26 mm wide T-block (by internet? often used for separate water rad. at cars etc.) , the plug m18x1.5 and its copper washer or rubber o-ring gasket for the rad. (drainplug of oilpans at a lot of european / japanese cars)

then find a mechanic how can drill the m18x1.5 absolutely vertical into the T - otherwise the thread / plug connection eventually becomes leaky.

the hose clamps i guess you can buy at all shops how got sanitary (plumbers) pieces in their shelfs.

good luck

ps: or you simply order this T-block