Overheating HELP!!

jeffgordons24

Registered
So after many weeks of waiting, today was the day. I finished the powder coating of my engine covers, reinstalled them with new gaskets. Filled it up with fuel and oil and cranked it over!
A few key cycles to prime the fuel system and it fired right up.
Aside from a little (okay maybe a lot) of smoke likely caused by my greasy hands touching everything and forgetting to wipe the oil off my header from when I drained my oil, the bike was running pretty well. I could tell it was over fueling but figured maybe it had to run out the old gas that may have been still in the lines and maybe I needed to reload my PC3 map.

So I let it run a bit while I tidied up the shop and got ready to close it up, it couldn’t have been more than 15-20 mins and when I got back to the bike it was almost to the H on the temp gauge and the warning light was on. I panicked and shut it down before I could even listen for the fan but when I cycled the key back on the fan was on and I panicked even more because the gauge was topped out (now I remember my gauge is always topped out when the bike is not running).

I wasn’t with my bike when the person wrecked it but I do have my tip over sensor bypassed because it would sometimes screw up on hard launches and cause some stumbles so I can’t help but be concerned as to how long my bike could have been running while laying on its side.

It was pretty cool in the shop, couldn’t have been over 70 degeees so I can’t see it being due to ambient temp and in the 12 years I have had the bike I have only seen it overheat twice and both times were in stop and go traffic on 90-100 degree days to which I simply pulled over and let it cool down.

Any ideas why the bike could be overheating? I will run it some more tomorrow and monitor it but I am just heartbroken now and I hope there isn’t anything major going on.
 
Did you have the cooling system apart in any way?
If not . . . .
1) take the rad cap off when it's cold and check the level of the coolant, by sight and by top up.
2) Now, check the plastic expansion tank (overflow bottle in American terminology lol) coolant level, if needed, top that up too.
3) Now run it til it's warm with the rad cap OFF.
4) Check the circulation once the thermostat opens, by feeling the heat difference from the lower rad hose and the upper hose.
5) When they are both the same temp, the thermostat is open and you have circulation.
6) Now, top off the coolant in the rad, put the rad cap back on and leave it idling.
7) DO NOT leave the bike, stay with it and monitor the temp gauge and wait for the fan to start running.
Providing the fan stops after a minute and starts cycling on and off, you're done.
8) Allow it to cool off and recheck and top off the expansion tank.

If you DID have the cooling system apart . . .
follow the above procedure lol.

Let us know how it pans out. :thumbsup:
 
Thanks guys, When I send the guys on lunch today I am going to fire it up and perform the procedure outlined by Kiwi.
The only portion of the cooling system that I actually had apart was just the expansion tank.
I checked coolant level in the radiator when cold and it was right to the top of the radiator. I definitely feel like the fan wasn't running yesterday but it was definitely running when I turned the key back on. It may have been the panic that washed over me. I will update you guys in the later part of afternoon
 
Cooling system likely has air in it.
Yep, cooling systems are very easily misunderstood by home mechanics that do not have a full understanding of how they work and the common problems they have.
One of the most basic and common problems, and so often overlooked, is the radiator cap's condition. Take a look at the rubber seal, if it looks bad or has gone hard, chuck the cap in the bin, get a new one.
The cap is the very first thing I test using a pressure tester
Thermostats usually give less trouble than the cap, but can still be tested
1540313043272.png

Anyway, I could go on all day but I won't lol.
Gotta go to work soon and actually get paid for this knowledge!
But I'm happy to share any info that may help you guys out and save you all some hard earned loot!
 
Yep, cooling systems are very easily misunderstood by home mechanics that do not have a full understanding of how they work and the common problems they have.
One of the most basic and common problems, and so often overlooked, is the radiator cap's condition. Take a look at the rubber seal, if it looks bad or has gone hard, chuck the cap in the bin, get a new one.
The cap is the very first thing I test using a pressure tester
Thermostats usually give less trouble than the cap, but can still be tested
View attachment 1586756
Anyway, I could go on all day but I won't lol.
Gotta go to work soon and actually get paid for this knowledge!
But I'm happy to share any info that may help you guys out and save you all some hard earned loot!
HAH, I guess you are a mechanic by trade, I guess with my Bike I am quick to panic, I have been a diesel mechanic for 8 years (now I just run the shop and guide my technicians through diagnosing issues) but TBH I am not as well versed in gasoline vehicles even though the systems function similarly.

Okay so I ran the bike with radiator cap off let it get to temp and I saw no change whatsoever in the level or flow of coolant just a very light constant drip of coolant which stopped when I shut it down. Both of the hoses did both get warm.

The fan did cycle on and off properly and the bike did not reach the red I am attaching photos of where It was after 40 mins of idling and fan cycling on / off. Can anyone chime in if this looks normal for an idling bike with fan on / off?
Seems the overheating was just possibly a freak thing or maybe the fan didn't cycle properly because the new battery came with a minimal charge (It charged on the tender over night)

IMG_3634.jpg


IMG_3635.jpg


IMG_3636.jpg


IMG_3637.jpg
 
That is warm. It should be that far below the halfway mark. Thats where mine always sat. What did you put in for antifreeze?

Side note, I was a diesel mechanic as well. First in the Marine Corps, then for Ryder. Been about 21 years since I've done that though. Loved it. Miss working on trucks.
 
Sometimes you have to lean a bike over pretty far, to each side, to "burp" it properly.
It can be a hassle to get all the air out.

I used to be an auto mechanic, and later a truck driver. I'll pass on working on big trucks(and cars for that matter, at least for a living).
Things are obviously easier to get to on trucks...but 10 times as heavy.
No thanks.
Much respect sir. Too many people don't realize that if trucks stop moving, so does the country.
 
[/QUOTE]
That is warm. It should be that far below the halfway mark. Thats where mine always sat. What did you put in for antifreeze?

Side note, I was a diesel mechanic as well. First in the Marine Corps, then for Ryder. Been about 21 years since I've done that though. Loved it. Miss working on trucks.

We do some outsourced work here for Ryder and Penske, mostly transmissions and in-frames.

Damn Its been so long since I rode the bike so I cant even remember where it was usually, it would sometimes like I said overheat in traffic. I have Green 50/50 in there (the factory coolant plus I topped it up with green 50/50 from our 55 gallon drums here.
 
Sometimes you have to lean a bike over pretty far, to each side, to "burp" it properly.
It can be a hassle to get all the air out.

I used to be an auto mechanic, and later a truck driver. I'll pass on working on big trucks(and cars for that matter, at least for a living).
Things are obviously easier to get to on trucks...but 10 times as heavy.
No thanks.
Much respect sir. Too many people don't realize that if trucks stop moving, so does the country.

Very True, I deal with the stresses and ins and outs of keeping the shop running, sometimes I miss just being on the floor fixing vehicles.
 
Looks ok to me too, that temp gauge is a little high, should be just below half way, see where it sits whilst cruising on the open road

Yep, mine is always below the mid point on the gauge. When it goes over the mid point in slow traffic the fan comes on and cools it down. I’ve crossed Nevada in 100+ temps running very fast with never a problem. Air flow is crucial to keeping the temps down.
 
Kiwi, Wuzza, Six, Greg, Kiwi, Kiwi, Kiwi, Kiwi, Kiwi and Kiwi, did I mention Kiwi? thank you for all the insight, help and guidance it is truly appreciated. So final update, ran the bike some more and as many of you said it was air in the system. I didn’t realize how sensitive the busa’s Cooling system was. I guess from laying on its side and then sitting for 2 years it got some air in there. The air seems to have worked it way out...the final run of the night can be seen in the photo, like I said I guess I panicked but a great group of guys were here to back me up and help me out, thank you again.

55122000-A4AD-4BAD-97F4-1DF79EA26BD4.jpeg


6B400680-A414-4803-A89C-6D80AEAE3D39.jpeg
 
Where your temp gauge is sitting is EXACTLY where mine sits all of the time.
Just a little advice from one mechanic to another . . . never panic or jump to conclusions.
We are dealing with science here, no mysteries, just logic and PATIENCE will get you through and solve these issues that crop up.
Anyway, easy for me to say, I've been at the coal face so long not much fazes me these days. lol.
We have your back my Busa buddy, anytime you need advice, we are all here for you! And that goes for any others facing mechanical issues with their bikes, just ask . . . you will get an answer guaranteed!
 
Back
Top