Ok, Turbo spitting oil.....

kawiboy11

Donating Member
Registered
Guys,
Remember, I have a GT35 Precision Turbo, fresh from Precision in Indiana, just got a $425.00 make over. I am having some issues, oil being shot up into my charge tube, does anyone have any advice on what could be causing this to happen. I am guessing it's not a good thing. Smithers Customs told me to remove the oil drain line as I run a Mr. Turbo oil pump & we found out that the pump was pulling oil back from the oil pan as it is connected through the same line while it was draining the turbo of oil. So we blocked off the line, but still having the problem with oil coming out the compressor wheel, & into the air filter. Any ideas?

sad.gif


1.jpg
 
Which headers are you using ,i forget which you ended up with.
Many don't need a scavenge pump, just a 1/2 -5/8 drain into the sump.

Don,t use a rear stand , anything that puts the turbo lower than the oil level will cause the oil in the up pipe..
 
You have a velocity header if im correct they set a tad low so that is most likely the problem with the oil getting into the compressor side of the turbo. Put a bigger drain line on the oil return like a 8AN or 1/2in line for your return and dont park on any steep grades where the back is higher than the front.

Or get a NLR scavenge pump and be done with it. A little pricey but well worth it when you have to keep replacing oil seals in the turbo.
 
That's the drain line I had, was a 8AN, with the pump, & it still did it. The turbo sit's very low, when I had the drain line on the bike, it's almost like it's going a little up hill. So we just went with the scavenge pump to drain the oil, but it still does it.

2.jpg
 
It will be pooling oil a little from the oil supply ,just running out of the oil gallerys while stopped, a 1/8 check valve will stop this happening.
You may also consider a small sump under the turbo to collect any drainback .
also check your pump flows enough,
 
Better pictures of your turbo oil feed line and return line, plus better angles with your turbo may give us a better idea of what is going on... THat hose your are using as a return line doesn't look real good... YOu sure that is going to hold up under the heat?

Cloud
 
if you are using mr turbo's small scavenge pump, be warned they fail fairly frequently. I didn't even get 3000 miles out of the last one

I have no experience with their large one, but I have heard they are more reliable

As mentioned, a check valve on the feed line is highly recommended. Sometimes you can get away without one, but if there is just the tiny amount of clearance in the oil pump, it will syphon through and fill the turbo

The return line size doesn't matter at all with a scavenge pump. I use -4 AN line on my setups
 
Hey Cody; if you still had the oil problem with the scavenge pump you may have to restrict the turbo feed line I use a .060 in the feed line and the little Mr Turbo pump and had no oil problems since installing this setup however if that pump ever quits, its getting that pump from NLR.
 
Yeah, I think I might need to restrict the oil comming in, I don't think it is as of now. I am going to call Precision today, see if they have one they recommend.

Thanks Guys!
bowdown.gif
 
Is your scavenging pump wired up backwards? It has a positive and negative mark on the housing. If it's backwards it will push the oil back to the turbo.
So a guy posts up for help and two members respond with "go figure, another turbo problem"? Come on guys, that not what he wants to hear, and I doubt most members want the board to have that kind of antagonistic environment fostered here. I know it can be tempting to kick a guy when he's down, but it's better to give him a hand and help him back up.
 
(turbojonn @ Sep. 19 2007,09:08) Is your scavenging pump wired up backwards? It has a positive and negative mark on the housing. If it's backwards it will push the oil back to the turbo.
So a guy posts up for help and two members respond with "go figure, another turbo problem"? Come on guys, that not what he wants to hear, and I doubt most members want the board to have that kind of antagonistic environment fostered here. I know it can be tempting to kick a guy when he's down, but it's better to give him a hand and help him back up.
good idea, but i have a clear line for the pump, and it's pulling oil, not pushing!

Cody
 
What size drain lines do you guys run? I think mine is a 8AN, Precision said to run a 10AN, hell, might even be a 10AN, it's pretty damn big.

Cody
 
Hey Cody; if you use a #3 size AN line for turbo feed it is pretty small inside I think fittings are close to 060 you may not need any additional restriction, also with the scavenge pump, the drain lines[turbo to pump and pump to motor] dont have to be big #4 or #6 is plenty besides you can see the fittings on that little pump are tiny I went thru this same stuff when I set mine up.
 
Forget anything as far as a pump goes with Mr. Turbo. The tiny pump is nothing but trouble and even when you think it's working, it can't handle the flow, even with a restricter at the turbo inlet. The pump connectors are made of plastic and the inlet and outlet holes are far too small to pump enough oil. And if you ever remove the bottom of the pump (don't because you won't get it back together again) you'll laugh at the size of the gears.

Don't waste your time with his high volume scavenge pump either. It's made by Reverso Pumps Inc. It's a GP-301 12V DC Gear Pump and the "MAXIMUM" working temperature of that pump is 140 degrees. Even Reverso recommended NOT to use their pump because any sort of long term riding will burn out the motor. There isn't enough space between the oil and the motor... and it can't be modified. Ohhh, but Mr. Turbo himself said he put a lot of research into pumps... yeah, right! Ask me how I know... believe me, I've had a lot of experience with his junk.

If you want a reliable setup use the mechanical pump from Emtes. It used to be sold by NLR but not sure if it still is. Very pricey but it works. Make sure you read the instructions thoroughly and double check everything. Pay attention to the part about using a Tee fitting (which goes between the turbo and check valve).

Speaking of check valve, to prevent backflow problems if you park your bike on a grade or lift the rear wheel, install a check valve at the outlet end of the turbo as well. It needs to be installed as close to the turbo outlet as you can. For a check valve I used one from www.mcmaster.com part number 47885K72.

So turbo outlet to Tee fitting to check valve to Emtes pump. On my Busa the turbo outlet goes to a 3/8 npt male 90 degree fitting, to the check valve with 3/8 npt female ends, to a 1/2 inch hose, to the Emtes pump. The Tee fitting? I drilled and tapped a 1/8 npt hole in the side of the 90 degree fitting, connected a small fitting there and ran a 1/4" hose to the crankcase.
 
Had oil pooling in the compressor of my T28BB, my system sits a little low so I use an electric return pump.
Fitted a non return valve in the feed line.

None of this solved the problem until I fitted a 40thou restrictor in the oil feed line.
Busa's run shell bearing cranks so the oil pressure can get on the high side for a ball bearing turbo.
Excess oil was pushing past the seals. The restrictor fixed my issues.

Cheers
Ross
 
Just remembered, changed to a thinner oil (10w40) for winter and got a little oil in the compressor, went back to 20w50 and oil dried up.

Cheers
Ross
 
Ross, I think I will have to go with a ristrictor as well, I am still having the problem, though my turbo is not dual bb, it a journal bearing,

boohoo.gif
 
Back
Top