ok i am getting a wet kit


found a good deal on a wet kit with progressive controller,any instalation tips ,ie can i do this my self and what is the biggest size bottle you can hide in the rear of the busa...no passengers for this guy...so i guess i could cut on the hump to fit bigger bottle...any one out thier got a bigger bottle in thier busa?
2lb bottle will go under the hump(inside actually).
If you don't "slam" the bike, you may get a 2.5lb, but you'll have to cut the trunk floor.
You will need a 90 degree drill to drill thru the cylinder head and install the nozzles.
Where the NOS is injected directly into the cylinders, a dry setup has the NOS injected into the airbox. I think the wet system gives more power but is harder to install. Am I right Sleeper?
i bought the kit just waiting for arvival along with a progessive controller then getting another computer to do the timing retard so i can spray the bigger shots without having parts self distruct in my bike..kit comes with 2lb. bottle...should be plenty big for me. i think i am going to let the shot drill the wholes for the foggers...plus..anyone out here have a wet kit allready that could give some pointers...the guy i bought it off was very helpful but all the extra info i can get will be highly appreciated........next mod .clutch........then radar detector/jammer........oh and its getting time to slam also.....ugh it never ceases
I use a big dry kit(150 HP) now but just make sure to retard the timing and maybe run higher octane fuel.You should be ok.
yeah i will retard timing the controller i got has a function when i hit the boost it turns the other controller on to retard timing so i can run a regular fuel map and not screw with the power commander 3r .....which is peerty neat i think. i'm starting with 40hp....then ill work up to 80hp....i really dont want an extended swing arm though..
Yeah Thunder, Thats correct, except that the WET system adds fuel thru the nozzle at the same time as it adds nitrous. On a dry system, the computer adds the fuel for you. ;)

Do you have some kind of shifter?
You'll need it when spraying!
It's very difficult to manage without!
You CANNOT spray unless you are at wide open throttle!
If things get confussing and you let the throttle off to shift, and the button is still activated, you are in BIG trouble!

Nitrous is NOT very forgiving!
Thanks Sleeper, I guess that makes more sense, more oxygen to burn you want that little extra fuel to burn too. So I am guessing the wet system is a whole lot more complex than just shooting it into the airbox?
Thanks Sleeper, I guess that makes more sense, more oxygen to burn you want that little extra fuel to burn too. So I am guessing the wet system is a whole lot more complex than just shooting it into the airbox?
Oh yeah!
ALL nitrous systems HAVE TOO add fuel. 1 way or another!
Notice the WET nozzles have 2 fittings. 1 for the nitrous and 1 for the gas.

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why would i be in big trouble if i let off the throttle to shift?? the one computer controls the timing and can gradually retard the timing as the other computer slowly raises the siliniod for the nitrous ?? sometimes i shift my busa without letting off the throttle done it a couple times in vegas and got some nice tire spin....i guess something i wouldn't want to do on juice though....what would happen if i let off the gas to shift while on the juice? ,do i need to blow more cash on an air shifter? thoose seem like a bigger hassle to install the a wet kit....oh what i meant in my above statement i was going to let the shop drill and tap the holes in my throttle boddies for the nozzles...or i could manage it at the auto hobby shop i guess
If you let off the throttle and not the button, you will prolly hear a pop, OR NOT.
Either way, you will prolly melt things. Starting with sparkplugs. If you are lucky, the plugs will be the only thing.
But, then you have melted spark plug junk inside the motor.
ALWAYS let off of the nitrous activation BEFORE the throttle!
If it's on a Wide Open Throttle switch, crack the throttle back for a split second and keep the motor up. It clears the motor of any unspent nitrous and gas.
It could cause a very nasty explosion, inside your motor.
If you are activating the nitrous with another button(horn or starter), Let off of that button before you let off of the throttle.
There is NO room on the throttle bodies to drill.
It has to be in the head.
Once the TBs are removed, it's alot easier, provided you have a 90 degree drill. Then you have to "tap" the holes to make threads.
I have seen them taped into the stacks that go inside the airbox, but all 8 of the lines that connect to the nozzles are inside the box too. It looked VERY complicated to me.
I like Dale Walker's Holeshot Electric shifters. More compact than air and not all that difficult to install.
Dale even states in his instruction, for you to call, so he can walk you thru the install.

thanx sleeper.........hey i saw some thing called a purge valve on schnitz do i need to install one of those..?? and do you have nitrous and what kind wet/dry.....i heard wet is more effecient that is why i went with it. just curious..oh by the way how much is an air shifter?