Ok, here's my impression on Silkolene

BulletTrain

Call me Daddy...
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As some of you know, I finally caved in and tried Silkolene. I've gotta say that it seems to have done more for the 10 than Mobil 1 has ever done for any of my rides. I said I'd post up what I thought about it once I got it in, so here it is...

First thing I noticed was that it made the engine considerably quieter at idle. The 10 was much noisier at idle than a busa. The noises would be hard to explain but they were easily heard. The easiest to explain was a "gear" whine, similar to what a supercharger whine sounds like on a car. The rest was a combination of metallic sounds that I have no idea how to put into words. After switchin' to Silkolene the thing just purrs at idle.

The next thing I noticed was that the engine seemed to rev a little easier/quicker while not under load. Just blippin' the throttle seemed to raise the RPM's quicker than before the oil change. What I'm talkin' about doin' here is takin' my thumb and a couple fingers, twistin' the throttle very quickly and instantly releasing it. With the Silkolene in it, the RPM's just seemed to go up quicker and spiked slightly higher than with the dino Kawi oil. This, along with the quieter idle was enough to make me confident that the Silkolene was providing slicker lubrication to the moving parts.

On the first ride with the Silkolene in I could instantly tell that the shifting and clutch operation was GREATLY improved and smoothed out. Upshifting was noticeably smoother and easier, but downshifting was night and day smoother. Downshifting now is like sliding a hot knife into butter. I never expected that much difference from an oil change. Mobil 1 helped shifting on Train, but not this much.

I went the first 25 miles or so without my earplugs to listen to the engine noises under load. Just like at idle, the engine just purred. The gear noise from the tranny was less noticeable and the other engine noises were all but gone. The only noise that really stood out was the sweet exhaust note.
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As for power gains, it's hard to say. It does feel like it revs easier under load just like it seemed to without a load. I know it's not scientific data, but my seat of the pants dyno tells me the same thing Rev's told him when he went to Silkolene full synthetic. My back tire is just about gone so I only done one full throttle run on a straight yesterday, but even just coming off of corners on throttle it seems like it revs more freely. Given the noise reduction and the change in shift/clutch feel I can't help but believe that the Silkolene simply HAS to be reducing friction and therefore releasing a little power.

Overall I'm very impressed with the Silkolene PRO 4 PLUS in the 10. I have to say that it made a bigger, more noticeable difference in the 10 than Mobil 1 or Motul made in the busa. I'm sold. Needless to say I'll be joining Rev in bein' a board Silkolene beeyotch next time an oil recommendation is requested. Seems to be great stuff...
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Oh, and thanks to Rev for pimpin' this stuff. I never would have believed it could be any better than Mobil 1 until someone I trusted (Yeah, I trust Rev...
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) started pimpin' it out. The ONLY reason I tried it was his glowing review.
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Amsoil motorcycle 10/40 is the same way . I noticed a diff. in the bike as soon as I changed over.
 
When is it advisable to make the change...first service.....1000 miles....any hard and fast rules?
 
When is it advisable to make the change...first service.....1000 miles....any hard and fast rules?
Most will say to wait until the bike has 2-2.5k on it before going synthetic. I let the dealer do my first service with dino oil so they wouldn't frig me on the warranty. I changed the busa over to synth at around 1800 miles if I remember correctly. The 10 had similar mileage on it when I put the Silkolene in. I'm confident that with the mototune break-in and 1500 or so miles you're good to go on synth. If you don't follow mototune's break-in... well, I think you're screwed anyway, but that's another thread I guess...

So, to summarize, I'd give it a hard break-in and 1500 miles or so before makin' the switch.
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When is it advisable to make the change...first service.....1000 miles....any hard and fast rules?
this topic is like talkin' Jesus , or should we go to war.

Like the song says "How can everybody be wrong,when nobody's right."

Very poetic....who wrote that shid....nevermind it'll come to me.

One of my best buddies owns a small shop. He's gung-ho into bikes. He sat thru a 3 day seminar on oil. Ya, 3 days...
talkin' about oil. I get a headache just thinkin' bout it.
Anyway, the best the group came up with was break it in on dino (the damage is done after the first 20 miles, some say 500 miles, but i'm a firm believer in the first 20) then switch to synth. I'll tell you this, its not so much what type it is.... as much as how often. Change it. Change it lots. The filter makes little or no diff. If its plugged it has a by-pass(and I ain't talking about what the fag said to you at the water cooler...hee hee hee) filters do almost nothing. Change it every 2 or 3 changes , asuming your dumpin' the oil regularly.
40,000 cliks here....on Motul.

lube it or abuse it.....hav a good 1....RSD.
 
You bastids are gonna make me go synth....I've got 4200 clicks so I'm good to go, I think I'll have to try.

Now the question, how ofter are you changing your full synth. I'm changing my BelRay dino and filter every 1500 right now. You guys doin a change at 3k?

Monty
 
BT, let me know how quickly it burns up. Mobil1 evaporated constantly in my Busa AND my Civic. I'm not paying more that $8 a QT for something I have to replace TWICE as often.... might as well run regular dino. Keeps tabs on your level will you? Tell me when you need to add more? Best place on the net to get Sylkolene?
 
You bastids are gonna make me go synth....I've got 4200 clicks so I'm good to go, I think I'll have to try.

Now the question, how ofter are you changing your full synth. I'm changing my BelRay dino and filter every 1500 right now. You guys doin a change at 3k?

Monty
I will probably change mine every 2k miles. If I don't get 2k by the end of riding season/beginning of winter '05 I'll change it then anyway. So, I'll change my oil every 2k, or season end/beginning, which ever comes first. I like to lean towards overkill on changin' the oil.
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BT, let me know how quickly it burns up. Mobil1 evaporated constantly in my Busa AND my Civic. I'm not paying more that $8 a QT for something I have to replace TWICE as often.... might as well run regular dino. Keeps tabs on your level will you? Tell me when you need to add more? Best place on the net to get Sylkolene?
I bet you done an easy break-in, didn't ya? Just curious... Anyway, yeah, I'll keep tabs on the oil level and keep you posted.
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I did combo of easy AND hard breakin - hard rev cycles up to the rpm limits recommended. Car? No clue. What I DON'T get, is why dino or or even Kaw synth seems to last but Mobil1 burns off in both bike AND car. Cost is not a problem, but if I'm dumping cash into a pointless oil moneypit, well I just feel stupid. Stupid is as stupid does
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I did combo of easy AND hard breakin - hard rev cycles up to the rpm limits recommended. Car? No clue. What I DON'T get, is why dino or or even Kaw synth seems to last but Mobil1 burns off in both bike AND car. Cost is not a problem, but if I'm dumping cash into a pointless oil moneypit, well I just feel stupid. Stupid is as stupid does
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Train was broke in hard and didn't burn any Mobil 1 the whole time I had it in 'er. I honestly think that an easy break-in promotes oil breakdown and consumption via it going into less than optimally sealed cylinders and burning up during combustion. All the cars I broke in easy in the beginning used a little oil and always ended up puffin' a little smoke on shifts (the stick cars). The ones I broke in hard had cleaner oil and never consumed any between changes.

I honestly think you done your engine a disservice by limiting the hard revs to the factory limits for their recommended periods. Not much you can do about it now though short of a rebuild of the bottom end and a hard break-in with the new rings and newly honed cylinder walls.

I'll keep you posted on how the 10 does on oil consumption but I honestly don't expect it to burn a detectable amount.
 
Well, I gotta call Mobil1 out on this, cuz none of my other oils burn thru... JUST Mobil1. It vanished out of my buddies 636 also. One day he calls me up to ask me if I mave any extra so I bring him over my last QT and he says he just checked his, and it was almost a quart low! He couldn't believe it because he was only 1000 or so miles on it. Maybe it's just Iowa. I have Kawasaki synth blood in my busa right now as recommened by my mech [soon to become my race tech!] and I am more than interested in trying slikolene out, but if it burns up every 1500 miles, back to the KAW oil I go
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. I'll give you some time and check back with you. You DO check your oil level before each ride don't you? ;)
 
Well HOLY SHID.... Only took what... Two Fuggin Years?
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Glad you like the Silkolene Bro.
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Good to know it all wasn't in my head.

I think the real key to the Synthetic is the type of Base stocks used. So many of todays cheap "Synthetics" really aren't that much better than dino oils. What your after is a full Ester Base Stock, something Mobil or Castrol don't use and it's what makes the difference.
 
hears a question for ya, when is it to-late to change from dino to synth? Ive got over 20000 clicks on mine. Is it to late to change? Im just afrade that the seals will leak.


What ya think?
 
hears a question for ya, when is it to-late to change from dino to synth? Ive got over 20000 clicks on mine. Is it to late to change? Im just afrade that the seals will leak.


What ya think?
As long as you use the proper viscosity I don't think it's ever too late to go synthetic. I've been told by some mechanics that the "Too old for synthetics" thing is just another myth. I've switched used cars that I've owned with much more than 20k on 'em over to synthetic oil without any problems at all. I think that if your engine is in good condition and doesn't leak now, changing to synthetic isn't going to make it leak. Just my $.02...
 
Well, I gotta call Mobil1 out on this, cuz none of my other oils burn thru... JUST Mobil1. It vanished out of my buddies 636 also. One day he calls me up to ask me if I mave any extra so I bring him over my last QT and he says he just checked his, and it was almost a quart low! He couldn't believe it because he was only 1000 or so miles on it. Maybe it's just Iowa. I have Kawasaki synth blood in my busa right now as recommened by my mech [soon to become my race tech!] and I am more than interested in trying slikolene out, but if it burns up every 1500 miles, back to the KAW oil I go
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. I'll give you some time and check back with you. You DO check your oil level before each ride don't you? ;)
Hmmm... Can't explain that one for ya.
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And yes, I check my oil before... and after... every ride... and also occasionally during a ride on a gas stop.
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116 miles on the Silkolene so far and no visible drop in oil level. I'll keep you posted.
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So where does one look to find this fine product BT!
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I've been waiting for this review.
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So where does one look to find this fine product BT!
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I've been waiting for this review.
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I got mine locally "in-store" at 1888fastlap.com Website is Gone almost $1 cheaper per litre than Ron Ayers had it for. Good folks to deal with and their prices are always competitive, if not a bit better than others.

Some bike dealers also carry it, but in limited viscosities and sometimes in limited amounts. One dealer I went to lookin' for it only stocks 1 litre... WTF?
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Fast Lap (aka Marietta Motorsports) stocks PLENTY of it. I'd assume Ron Ayers does, too.
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Good lookin' site, BT, and prices do seem pretty competitive.
 
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