Oil Test Results From Blackstone Lab

[mabupa]

So, after putting around 4,500 miles on amsoil full synthetic I sent a sample to Blackstone labs to be tested. On this report you can see the results from last test I got done back in 2013 vs the most recent one. Not sure what to make out of it. Any of you guys have any input? What is that high copper telling me? Bike only has 12k+ miles. Also, note the comment about possible dirt making it through air filter. Guess I’ll be pulling this K&N out and going back to factory air filter.

 

[WuzzaCBXRider]

What was the cost? I'd like to see the numbers on a 66,000+ mileage Busa also using Amsoil. I'm not at all worried as I've used Amsoil for years on several bikes with outstanding results. What I like is seeing the gallon jug fill up to about a couple tablespoons short of a full gallon after I change it. The only time it (used) any oil was after a few top speed runs and some dyno runs.

 

[mabupa]

What was the cost? I'd like to see the numbers on a 66,000+ mileage Busa also using Amsoil. I'm not at all worried as I've used Amsoil for years on several bikes with outstanding results. What I like is seeing the gallon jug fill up to about a couple tablespoons short of a full gallon after I change it. The only time it (used) any oil was after a few top speed runs and some dyno runs.

You can go on their website and they’ll send you a “test kit” at no cost. You catch the sample and package it in the kit and mail it to them. This test was $38 dollars because I asked for the TBN to be done on the sample(extra $10 dollars) but the normally is only $28.

 

[jellyrug]

So, after putting around 4,500 miles on amsoil full synthetic I sent a sample to Blackstone labs to be tested. On this report you can see the results from last test I got done back in 2013 vs the most recent one. Not sure what to make out of it. Any of you guys have any input? What is that high copper telling me? Bike only has 12k+ miles. Also, note the comment about possible dirt making it through air filter. Guess I’ll be pulling this K&N out and going back to factory air filter.

View attachment 1577653

I had mine analyzed since new, every oil change. My numbers are pretty close to yours.
My input: That oil held up pretty good, maintaining viscosity. That is better than you will ever get from Mobil or Shell. The copper is no problem, not sure but I think those come from the shift forks. Perhaps someone who works on the gearboxes of these can confirm the material?

Where you are higher than me by quite a bit is fuel dilution and silicone. If you have custom pipes, could be that the fuel mixture needs adjustment. Silicon, either you ride more dirt roads than me, or your filter is different or clogged.

All in all, that is a good analyses though!!!

 

[mabupa]

I had mine analyzed since new, every oil change. My numbers are pretty close to yours.
My input: That oil held up pretty good, maintaining viscosity. That is better than you will ever get from Mobil or Shell. The copper is no problem, not sure but I think those come from the shift forks. Perhaps someone who works on the gearboxes of these can confirm the material?

Where you are higher than me by quite a bit is fuel dilution and silicone. If you have custom pipes, could be that the fuel mixture needs adjustment. Silicon, either you ride more dirt roads than me, or your filter is different or clogged.

All in all, that is a good analyses though!!!

Thanks for the info. I have a K&N filter that I already had to clean once and oil it, but I think this confirms what some say about the K&N not being that good for your engine. As far as the fuel, i had it tuned, but then changed my exhaust setup, so I’ll be calling around to get it tuned with the new exhaust.

 

[RedBusarider]

I almost always use Top Tier gas -do you?

My bike runs good - so I'm not going to do a test just yet with only 10K on it. Maybe someday.

 

[mjl3truck]

I use to oil sample all my stuff at CAT (Harley, cars, trucks) since I use to work for one of their dealerships and drank the oil analysis Kool-Aid. So I bought a Gen II and pulled an oil sample and sent it off, it came high on silicone (dirt) and copper and had a high particulate count for engine oil. It worried me for a while until I figured out, wet clutch and there ya go that explains it.
Unless I'm looking for to confirm something specific, coolant, gas, tied up a piston, lost a bearing in a transmission etc. If you had one of those issues it would be in 1000's ppm instead of the 20's.
Don't put much stock in results on something with a wet clutch.

 

[mabupa]

I almost always use Top Tier gas -do you?

My bike runs good - so I'm not going to do a test just yet with only 10K on it. Maybe someday.

I usually fill up at the wawa or Costco by my house and use 91 or higher, but I find myself filling up at small gas stations too. I ordered a new OEM filter to replace the K&N and will make some calls around to get the bike retuned with the new single exhaust. Maybe I should just ride it and forget about all these numbers, but oil analysis is an addicting thing. Lol!

 

[jellyrug]

I usually fill up at the wawa or Costco by my house and use 91 or higher, but I find myself filling up at small gas stations too. I ordered a new OEM filter to replace the K&N and will make some calls around to get the bike retuned with the new single exhaust. Maybe I should just ride it and forget about all these numbers, but oil analysis is an addicting thing. Lol!

I use only OEM air filters, but don't clean them. Replace with new every time. For me oil analysis is both a hobby and insurance that I have nothing going on in the motor. It also helped me select the best oil, based on viscosity retention. I go for a check up at my doctor GP every year and they do blood tests to see if all is good. Same thing isn't it?

 

[FlatlandBusa]

My take on oil analysis? I work at a large industrial facility, the oil in all the major equipment gets sampled on a regular schedule. The only time the analysis catches something before total failure is when a heat exchanger starts leaking water into oil. Doing analysis has never caught a major failure, before you could hear or see an issue with equipment.

 

[Marc]

Dear friends, I have a 2008 busa with 25k miles on it. Should I switch to synthetic oil?
Please comment about it. Thanks.

 

[busabobh]

Yes

 

[FlatlandBusa]

Dear friends, I have a 2008 busa with 25k miles on it. Should I switch to synthetic oil?
Please comment about it. Thanks.

Yes, any brand name synthetic motorcycle oil will work. Everyone has their own preference. I run Mobile 1 4T.

 

[Marc]

What is the right way to do this change? Can I put synthetic over the old fossile one and than change again within 500 mi?
Many friends here in Brazil has this same doubt. Thank you very much!

 

[busabobh]

Normal oil change and new filter, should use a new crush washer on the drain bolt.

 

[WuzzaCBXRider]

Just change it. I recommend Amsoil. Ran it in my 1982 CBX for 102,000 miles and never had any problems. Have had it in my Busa since new and its approaching 70,000 miles, also with no problems. Smoother shifting and cooler running.

 

[Cantab]

Normal oil change and new filter, should use a new crush washer on the drain bolt.

Why do you need to change the crush washer ? (unless of course theres a leak)
Ive never done this on any bike ive owned - just wondering...

 

[mabupa]

What is the right way to do this change? Can I put synthetic over the old fossile one and than change again within 500 mi?
Many friends here in Brazil has this same doubt. Thank you very much!

These oil changes are not like mixing antifreeze or different DOT brake fluids, so just drain the oil and dump fresh motorcycle specific (some might not agree with MC specific) synthetic in your motor with new filter and done. Like sated above, we all have our favorite brand that we stick too, but I guess some of the stuff we get here in the USA can be harder to find in your country. Just keep in mind that just becasue the bottle says good for up X amount of miles doesn’t mean you can go that long since we have wet clutches and they tend to release some metals into the oil and contaminate it from what some tests show.

 

[caspernz]

What is the right way to do this change? Can I put synthetic over the old fossile one and than change again within 500 mi?
Many friends here in Brazil has this same doubt. Thank you very much!

Just drain the old dinosaur oil as per usual, change oil filter, refill with synthetic oil. Don't worry about a small amount of dinosaur oil left in there. No need for a short cycle drain and refill.

 

[busabobh]

Why do you need to change the crush washer ? (unless of course theres a leak)
Ive never done this on any bike ive owned - just wondering...

I never use to change the washer till I got a leak, also helps to keep from stripping the threads in the oil pan , cheap insurance, and a toque wrench is your friend.