Oil Leak

[k9ill5a]

Looks like i have a minor oil leak from the back of the oil pan, anyone had issues with the gaskets going bad at this spot. plug maybe leaking from overtightning cause i thought that was the original problem till i pulled the fairing off. its just a few drops on the garage after 3 or 4 days of no ridding. Thanks for the insight.

K8 13kmi

 

[dmrowe]

Wipe the underside down and leave it on a rear stand and perhaps you can see where it is coming from. I had a similar problem with the drain plug, replaced the flat washer that was on the plug with the proper crush washer. And if you haven't stripped any threads be sure to use a torque wrench when reseating the plug. What year and how many miles, might help some of the other members help diagnose the problem.

 

[bobber]

2008 model with 13,000 miles isnt bad.
Ive not heard of any pans leaks like that as of yet but; it couldve been a error when put together on the assemble line. as posted above. I'd pull the drain plug: Check the threads in the sleeve very closely after wipeing the inside of the sleeve down. and as posted above, replace the crush washer and torque back to specs. there is a chance the oil is blowing back from the drain plug,But I dont think so; It have to be leaking undetected and heavy for a long time for that to be the case. My gut is telling me your right in thinking it [ may ] be the pan: Plus there would be a trail. Wipe the underside down good and put a white cardboard down under the bike to help monitor. If the header wasnt in the way, you could check to see if the pan bolts have lossened up from vibration. There are stories on the board about the lack of use of thread locker in some areas on that model. whether its supposed to be there or not. such as in the clutch basket and else where. Ive got a stripped oil plug that I'm dealig withnow as well. but Your probually right on the pan gasket. Golden child gave me a good deal on a pan. I hope its not the pan gasket.either way ; the header has to be moved if it is. best wishes and keep us posted

 

[k9ill5a]

yep, well now were in the same boat. the oil pan bolts seemed snug. changed the filter and went to put the drain plug back in and there she blows.:duh:, she just started to get the littlest bit tight and broke loose, most likely the problem all along. i been changing the oil in cars and motorcycles all my life i cant believe i let this happen.I dread taking the pipes down to replace the pan.

 

[bobber]

Im so sorry to hear. Last weekend I spent 2 days takeing my time to put a new header on , only to find a oil drip the next day . I was ill. I wish I wouldve seen it before on the same day in which the pan was staring me in the face. I still havent repaired it yet. the headers were hard to seat even with both radiators out of the way. I used as recommended by yosh, a bungie cord to hook to the lowerhole in the main radiator to hook it to the front end of the bike to keep it out of the way while working. It was still digging into my knuckles at times and there was no room [ as yosh had said in the instructions that there would be] to have room to use a small rubber mallet to tap them slightly to make sure the flange and manifold had seated. I used new gaskets as well. Im really considering removeing the main radiator this time; instead of working around it in which I lost alot of time being carefull not to damage it. I just didnt want to deal with the antifreeze. but I will probually pull it when i do a fix. Too much loss time for me.
Dont feel pregnant tho,,I dont over tighten either; I very carefull to use the right rachet size and torcque to proper specs too. After my finding of the stripped pan sleeve, I did research with over whelming evidence that the busa pans were notorous for stripped out pan sleeves. If you notice at the end of the threading near the bolt head ; there is a small non threaded space for the crush washer to lay. I [out of charactor] went thru numerous oil changes without replaceing the crush washer in which it was pushed past that non threaded area and was slightly wrapped around the beginning of the pan bolt head. It is my opinion in my case since I dont over tighten and didnt use a new washer; that when the threading bottomed out it still wasnt quite tight enough; that that flat area enable to end and start pulling the threading out of the sleeve to my demise of not properly installing a new crush washer every time. Either or,There may be truth as well to a flaw in the design of the pan sleeve whicjh is aluminum instead of being made out of steel such as a timesert. Contact Goldenchild he gave me a steller price on a new pan. P.S My last bike was a V-max that had a nice heavy flat washer for a seal

 

[k9ill5a]

exactly what i did too bobber. just dropped my "allowance" from the boss lady on a set of leathers. so temped to jerry rig it up with a rubber spacer and washer or something so that it tightens up on the good threads that are left, but someone made a good point in your thread about if it blows your gonna crash and leave oil all over the place for other riders to deal with. and it may crack if you try to rethread it

thanks for the info on the headers, i was thinking everything looked to tight to get in there and work. man what a time consuming mistake.

sent golden child a pm, thanks

 

[teddypenn]

sorry to hear man. been there, done that. i found a pan pretty cheap from another board member, so check around. maybe you can save some cash.

 

[Schism]

i just replaced my pan from lazily over tightening the drain plug without using my torque wrench which eventually gutted the pans threads. sorry to hear about the leak. pm me if you need any help.