Oil filter change

Justyntym

The Pessimistic Optimist
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Planning to do the 600 mile oil change myself this weekend (even though I'm 500)...and in reading the manual it says to use the oil filter wrench (which of course my dealer is out of) and turn it 2 full turns after the gasket makes contact with the engine...

2 full turns seems like a lot...I've done LOTS of auto oil changes and have not done more to a filter than hand tight...is the busa any different...am I missing something?
 
Planning to do the 600 mile oil change myself this weekend (even though I'm 500)...and in reading the manual it says to use the oil filter wrench (which of course my dealer is out of) and turn it 2 full turns after the gasket makes contact with the engine...

2 full turns seems like a lot...I've done LOTS of auto oil changes and have not done more to a filter than hand tight...is the busa any different...am I missing something?
If you're anywhere near Lakeland, you can bring your stuff over here and borrow my wrench.
 
No, 2 full turns is about right after contact with OEM filter.
Be careful re-installing drain plug after draining oil.
Steel plug, aluminium pan.
Hand tighten then snug up with a 17 mm wrench stay away from ratchet and sockets.
People have been stripping them and having to install heli-coils.



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any auto parts store has filter wrenchs. I would take the new filter with you to make sure it is small enough to fit the Busa's filter. When you change the filter just make sure it tight. Let it run with the fairings off and make sure that there are no leaks.
 
Already tried autozone with zuk filter in hand...no wrench to fit...I'll renew my quest tomorrow.

Thanks for the offer Relsek, but I'm a couple hours away though and I need to get one anyway. I hafta do it Sun (which is Easter) and sneak away time from the family as it is. A hearty thanks regardless...
 
2 full turns from the moment the filter gasket starts to touch the engine is correct.



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I've always put the oil filter on a little overhand tight. Never used a wrench myself..

the trades inside the filter are a lot softer than the shaft, on the bike. I would imagine To full turns would strip filter...
 
you don't need a filter wrench to remove it, just a channel-lock pliers. That is what I use because the napa gold filters don't work with the wrench. I also only make it as tight as I can get it by hand, no leaks in 3 years.
 
Two turns seems about right but I always tighten by hand.

<table style=filter:glow(color=RED)>DON'T FORGET TO BUY A NEW CRUSH WASHER FOR THE DRAIN PLUG </table>

and don't over tighten the drain plug (steel plug aluminum pan)

Don't ask me how I know>
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My personal experience is to stay away from the K&N filter here too. The attraction is that you can use a (box end or?)wrench on the filter body instead of the special filter wrench.

Oil up the seal good and as some of the board members suggest covering the headers with tin foil or Plastic wrap to avoid getting oil on the headers. And Then make sure you have no leaks before you button up the fairings.
 
I bought a RiteFit cap wrench from PebBoys.
It's a cap that fits over the filter and you use a 3/8" drive socket wrench with it. You will need a 3" extension and a swivel to get in between the pipes.
I sugest taking your filter with you and make sure you buy the size the fits.
The part number is A256 and it's only $2.99

Sometimes the cap slips a little and gets wedged on the filter, just hold the filter in your hand (after it cools down) and turn the wrench the other way and it will pop off.

Another to do is lossen the filter and drain plug a little before you warm up the bike, less chance you will touch something hot.



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I use this guy
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to remove the filter, then tighten by hand as much as I can, about 1/4 turn with that beast of a wrench 'til snug...never had any problems, so I'm doing something right.
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small_wrench.JPG
 
Replace it with a K&N oil filter they have a nut on the top and it makes life easier. Put some aluminum foil on your pipes to keep them clean also.
 
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