Oil changes




#1
1. How many of you are doing your own? (my dealer wants a hundred bucks!) :whip:

2. Are there any tricks or pitfalls I should be aware of for this first oil change? I haven't studied the plastic a whole lot, but it looks pretty straightforward to remove it, no?

3. Can anyone recommend a different (better) filter than factory filters, or is that the best way to go?

Any help is greatly appreciated.
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#2
I always do my own. Its very easy and the plastic comes off/on very easy. Get a socket for your filter though. From what I've read on the boards most have been using the oem filters. I use k&n filters. Took an even four quarts to bring it up to the window.
 

Racer 222

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#3
On the first one I would let the dealer do it. Its the break in oil change and they go over your bike to ensure they put it together correctly. Just the first one. After that do it yourself.

Marc "Howlin Mad"
 
#4
I have a brand new 2001 it's at the dealer right now for the break-in (first service) $175 OUCH!!!! But I agree it is better to have the dealer go over the bike and do the first service/oil change. After this I will be doing future maintenance. Ride safe and enjoy!
 
#5
Yeah, I'm kind of starting to think along those lines too: let the dealer do the first service. But I think I'm going to get it done sooner than 500 miles. Probably at 300.

I've been told that if you don't get that first service done, and you have a warranty problem later, Suzuki will try to weasel out of the warranty obligation. That's crap. Unless there's specific language in their warranty that requires that first service, they are bound to honor warranty items regardless of that first service.

But lots of people don't know much about how warranties work, and Suzuki can take advantage of them.
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Racer 222

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#6
Bosch,
I would go the full term on the 500 miles. Give the engine time to breakin. Sooner is not necessarily better. Just try not to exceed that mileage before the first service.

Just my 2 cents

Marc "Howlin Mad"
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#7
Don't go in early for you first service ride it till the factory recommend first service and then take it in. I do the oil changes myself its very easy. The oem filters are great use them or any other brand except fram don't use fram their filter is a piece of shit. I usually take the right side fairing lower off takes about 5 minutes you can loosen the filter with a pair of channel locks and remove it you don't need a fancy filter wrench I put the new filter on hand tighten it you don't need to put a wrench on it to tighten it as factory torque spec is about 15lbs you can achieve that with just hand tightening. Drain bolt is easy to access once you have added the correct amount of oil start the bike check for any leaks and poof you done.............simple..........
 

Narcissus

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#8
Here's my experience. Brand new bike, works perfectly. Bring it to the dealer for 'scheduled service'. Bike runs like crap afterward, stuck replacing leaking seals, broken clips and stripped bolts.

The first service includes NOTHING you can't do yourself, and better. Just change the oil, filter and check that all the bolts are tight and the chain is adjusted properly.

Personally, even if they did it for free, I still wouldn't take it to the dealer. Finding one that you can trust 100% is a pipe dream, in my opinion and in my experience.
 
#9
Heh, I guess the Supreme Overlord has spoken.  
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Is it true that "break in" oil is truly a different blend than "regular" oil?  Like, no detergents and things like that?  

BTW, as an update, I just came from the dealer and told him about the rear tire going down, and they said "sure, bring it in, we'll figure out what happened to it, no charge."  So that was pretty decent of them.

I do not know if I trust the mechanics at my dealer, I really need to contact some other riders around here and get their feedback.
 

Kento-Moto

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#10
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I agree with narcissus, I have seen some real flunkies working on new bikes and new cars. The mech at our local dealer is real friendly but allways smells like martini's. My new Chevy Siverado - The dealer dented it twice didnt do what they said they would... I do everything I can myself & oil change is duck soup. Right side plastic needs to come off very tight but you can reach in and loosen filter & refill with the good stuff like Mobil1 ... synthetic. Keep records & reciepts for warranty.

When a mechanic is needed ask around and find out who is recommended by other riders.
 
#11
Over the years i learn to maintenace my own bikes for the most part. I'm not sure what the deal is but good mechanics seem to be as hard to find as diamonds laying in the street. Everyone seems very nice till you try to get them to repair something they screwed up the last time they worked on it...

My pardons to all the great mechanics who stand behind their work
 
#12
I'll add to what Narcissus says. The mechanic that does the oil changes and other flunky jobs, like the supposed check of torque on bolts is usually the low guy on the chain at most dealerships. Then they're gonna charge you a rediculous amount of money to do it. Do you really think he's gonna do a better job then you can? The only thing mines seen the inside of the shop for is the recall on the tensioner.
 
#13
How convenient this subject came up since my last visit to the site (too long ago, although only a few weeks
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). I did the first oil change myself, because I don't have a dealer I can trust within 100 miles of where I live. Had my old bike in to them - they went over the 'safe' estimate by >10%, and the mechanic left the bike a quart low on oil!
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Anyway, I couldn't find a filter wrench ANYWHERE that would work (bought and returned all 3 types that NAPA had!), so I ended up mangling mine with Channel Locks. Used them to put the new one on, and was just way more careful. Worked fine. A side note, I elected to put on my center stand at the same time 'attaches to existing frame tabs', according to Suzuki!! :whip: :whip: Sure it does!!!, but you have to take off ALL of the front plastic, the entire exhaust system, some more plastic down below, and I even had to drain the radiator (in addition to unbolting it as recommended) to be able to easily get at all of the exhaust manifold bolts! :whip: Many hours later; however, I am happy to report I had no extra parts left over
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, and the bike runs just like it did before.
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I know you race-happy types will pooh-pooh the centerstand, but man, chain maintenance has never been so fun!!!
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Kento-Moto

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#14
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Just a note - when tightening filters or any other bolt .... caution about overtightening, results could be worse than loose. I tighten oil filter by hand only as it will seeze up a bit with heat and usually have to remove with wrench ( sears has a decent motorcycle filter wrench )and I allways check for leaks... nothin yet
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#15
I've heard that there's different "versions" of Mobile1 synthetic: One is for automobiles, and other is for cycles.  

This true?

I can get a gallon of Mobile1 sythetic at K-Mart for about $18.00, which seems ok.
 

Narcissus

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#16
The motorcycle oil from Mobil is MXT4. Currently, only Autozone carries it as far as I know and it's quite pricey at $7-8 a quart. I recently changed to MXT4, but only because I was able to get them discontinued at Walmart for $3 a quart.

If you get the regular Mobil 1, 15W50 will work well. They do not make 10W40 in Mobil 1 (at least I've never seen it).
 
#17
well...you guys reminded me I'm do for my 500 check up. I just got off the phone with my dealer...get this. I told them I'm going to the bike races next week so I needed it by the weekend. The guy tells me to bring it in next Tuesday night and he'll work on it right than and there. Even encouraged me to stick around and ask questions while he worked on it. They charge $85.00 for the whole thing...and its the service manager thats doing it for me. Guess thats one for the dealer huh?
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