O2 Sensor Without Catalysator?

G-S

G-S

Registered
Hi, first post here, from Norway :)
Have a 2011 Busa, and ordered a Akrapovic 4-1 exhaust on ebay.
Removed original pipes and the catalysator (heavy thing..!), and mounted the lambda sonde in the new Akrapovic.
I have not yet found anyone here in Norway to help me remap the ECU, still looking/asking around.
Maybe I need to take the bike to another country to get it done..

My question here now;
-will the signal from the lambda cause the stock ECU to produce a very lean fuel mix to compensate for the missing catalysator? With possible damaging the pistons?
Should I unplug the lambda?
Is it safe to run the bike as it is now?

And another question;
Should I replace stock airfilter with hi-flow filter, will it help produce significant more power?
If so, I must of course change this before a remapping:)

Best regards, Gerhard
 
Welcome! Great to see a Norwegian here. My great grandparents came to Iowa from Norway many years ago. I'm proud to be 3/4 Norwegian and hope to visit Norway someday.

I have a 2011, mapped ECU, full Yosh 4-1 exhaust, o2 sensor removed, runs perfect! But sorry, I don't know anything about a lambda :(
 
Thanks! I have changed the title; what I call a lambda sonde is the same thing you refer to as o2 sensor.

Should I remove the o2 sensor from the new Akropovic exhaust? Is the removal done by taping the sensor alongside the wires over the exhaust pipe, or to cut the wire to completely remove the sensor from the bike?
Will driving the bike without new ecu-mapping possible damage the engine?

Norway is a great country for motorbiking:) Many mountains, fjords, and narrow roads with plenty turns!
 
If you have no way of turning it off in the ECU I would run it. If you can shut it off then all you have to do is unplug it from the harness and throw it in your spare parts box.
 
Shouldn't be an issue, you can run an aftermarket pipe on the busa without a map,, Yeah it will be slightly lean in some spots and a little rich in others, but it will not hurt the bike... As far as the O2 sensor,, the ecu only looks at 10% throttle conditions or less ( at least that is what I remember) and adjust accordingly. After 10% throttle the bike uses hard numbers that have been programmed into the ECU for fueling. So, just like the pipe; you can run it with the sensor and it will not hurt the bike.. You can also run it without,, you just have to install a resistive jumper in place of the sensor so that you don't get F.I. fault.
 
Is there not a power commander or bazzaz or something you could get that (1) tunes that exhaust to your bike, and (2) bypasses the O2 sensor. I know there are for US Spec bikes. Not as perfect of a tune as a custom ECU map, but pretty close and gets rid of the O2 sensor.
 
Thank you guys for helpful replies!
So I can run the bike with the sensor for now; thats a big relief:)

If I cant find anyone to help me with a custom map of the oem ecu, I will buy a pc5 or something like that, but as I understand by reading this excellent forum :)), flashing the ecu is the preferable solution.

Do you know if a "high-flow" airfilter (as k&n) will help produce more power in this configuration?
I will not risk bringing more dust into the engine if its not a potentional noticible increasing of power. But power..I just cant get enough of it.
 
The K&N filter is known to not add horsepower. Other filters like BMC are believed to be ok. I can tell you that I don't see any benefit to replacing the stock filter for drag racing. The stock filter produces at least as good of terminal speed as my BMC.

You could consider a Woolich Log Box instead of a PC5. That would allow you to turn off the O2 code and do autotune.
 
Thanks for sharing you're experience, I was suspecting oem air filter to be sufficient for self breathing engine.

Anyone have experience with autotune, -how does it performes vs manual ecu-flashing on dyno?
 
I've used Bazzaz auto tune (friend's bike) and it was fine. If you think about it, using a wide band 02 in real life with auto tune is the same process you would use on a dyno, but it uses real life conditions. Make a pass and record data, adjust, repeat. Knowing what air/fuel ratio, timing, secondary throttles, etc work the best would be an advange to an experienced Busa tuner on a dyno ... but they would have an advantage on the track too.

I've never put an autotune on my bike; I just use a generic map andhave had good results. I bought the Woolich Log Box and am in the process of getting it set up. I want to play with some different fuels this year.
 
I honestly don't know much about fuel injection and mapping. It's something I would like to learn more about. I'm more comfortable with Mikuni, Bing, S&S and Amal carbs :)

The guy who sold me my 3000 mile used 2011 flashed the computer and installed a PC5. I know a lot of people say you don't need a pc5 but my bike runs perfect and has lots of power (189hp) so I'm very happy with it. I know the o2 sensor is removed and the harness is still there, maybe a resistor installed but I'd have to look.
 
If you want to hit the drag strip I'm at Cedar Falls a lot, and will be at Eddyville for as many of the bike races as possible. I can show you how it works.
 
Dennis said:
If you want to hit the drag strip I'm at Cedar Falls a lot, and will be at Eddyville for as many of the bike races as possible. I can show you how it works.
Click to expand...

Thanks, if you ever come to Humboldt let me know, I'll come out and watch.
 
Dynojet makes a plug to put in the harness for the O2 sensor so the FI light doesn't come on. Or if someone has the pins and crimper you can take the connector apart on the sensor and make your own for about $.50 in
 
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