O.K. MEN...cover me, I'm goin in

rubbersidedown

TURBO-BUSA-RIDIN'-BASTID
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Good evening Dudes an' Dudette's . I'm about to head out to the shop and RE/RE the entire fuel system . Am I going to run into gaskets,o-rings,clips,etc etc that I'll have to order from the dealer, or will I be able to dissasemble,clean,and re-install,re-using all of the seals,gaskets etc etc. I'd like to ride tomorrow , if possible . Anyone pulled there fuel system apart. TIPS ? ADVICE ? Please an' Thanks .
 
No open flames
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Let us know how it goes.
 
Actually doing it by candle light might be nice...Sorta romantic maybe...A man and his bike alone...a little soft music...her fuel system exposed and waiting for your touch,  
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the feel of her gaskets, the shape of her curves
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......I gotta go........
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Actually doing it by candle light might be nice...Sorta romantic maybe...A man and his bike alone...a little soft music...her fuel system exposed and waiting for your touch,  
inlove.gif
the feel of her gaskets, the shape of her curves
drooling3.gif
......I gotta go........
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REV-limiter......you pervert. If yer touchin' yerself right now , we DON"T want to hear about it....YUK .
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AH, Rub-her-downside, REV-limiter......you pervert. If yer touchin' yerself right now , we DON"T want to hear about it....YUK .  [/QUOTE]

Uh...No...I mean...not really...Uh...Yeah...Lets just say I found a new use for S100 and that pillion seat....
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Oh, ask away. You don't have to order much from the dealer, unless you just enjoy paying $5 for each little o-ring that you can get 4-packs of each for a buck at the local auto parts store.
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Why not look in the 'modifications' section?
'Cause I didnt realize it was a "MOD" . I figured it may be a prob or a general question thing . Had no idea it might be a modification I MIGHT want to do . To me it's more of a BROKEN-HAVE-TO-DO type of thing ...than a "MAYBE-I-WANNA-DO-THIS-MOD" type of thing .
Thats why thee MODS sec didnt occur to me . Sorry .
 
Oh, ask away. You don't have to order much from the dealer, unless you just enjoy paying $5 for each little o-ring that you can get 4-packs of each for a buck at the local auto parts store.
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O.K. so I dont hafta order MUCH from the dealer .
oops...what was it I hafta order....nobody said .
O.K. once I've torn it apart , I'll go to my local auto parts store an' get the o-rings there, so that way I wont haffta pay ...5 $ for each lil' o-ring .
My original question was...
Sorry....didn't mean to seemingly upset you so .
Anyway........
 
Oh, enough with the sensitivity crap today. Do you want a clean, working fuel system or just another Internet daily affirmation?
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I'm in the 'read-three-words-and-reply' mode today.
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OK, I am assuming you have a 1999/2000 model with the external fuel pump. Whether you are doing regular maintenance or are fixing problems, I suggest going with an external filter, as in the article I linked above. That will save you $35 for the dinky Suzuki filter. You can either get a GM/Ford in-line filter or go with the more expensive, but clean-able K&N. It will probably be easier to just get a car one and replace it every other year. I listed most of the o-ring sizes in the link. The only seal you might want to order is the packing seal that goes between the assembly halves. It's ~$15 from the dealer. You can re-use the old one, but the problem is that the fuel expands the seals, making them difficult to replace. Place them in the freezer for a while to shrink them. The o-rings are cheap enough to replace, though, so you do not need to bother with that, just the packing seal, if you decide to re-use.

I would also go ahead and get new fuel injection hose and FI-hose clamps. Those are the ones that come around like a 'G' with the screw, as opposed to the slotted ones that tear up hoses.

As an idea, you might consider replacing the four Phillips-head screws on the pump assembly and the two regulator screws with hex or Allen head screws. That will make re-assembly and dis-assembly in the future much easier.

Feel free to email me if you have more questions along the way. I am pretty busy, lately, but I promise to read more than three words before hitting 'reply' this time.
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It's easy enough to do without having to replace any of the o-rings if you're careful.
The best way to disassemble the o-ringed parts is with a rubber tipped blow gun and gentle air pressure until it pops apart. You don't really need to take the front portion of the filter apart that holds the paper element as that never really gets plugged up. The problems are with the little cup screen and the screen behind the pump motor. Clean those two and you're back in business for another 7-8,000 miles.

Gar
 
 The problems are with the little cup screen and the screen behind the pump motor.  Clean those two and you're back in business for another 7-8,000 miles.

Gar
cleaned as best I could behind the pump motor,does that plastic tube with screens in bottom , that encompasses the motor come out ? . I thought about removing it for better cleaning , but didnt want to damage it .
The pics in the manual dont exactly match my parts .
I have a Y2K Canadian Edition .
Thanks Gar
 
 The problems are with the little cup screen and the screen behind the pump motor.  Clean those two and you're back in business for another 7-8,000 miles.

Gar
cleaned as best I could behind the pump motor,does that plastic tube with screens in bottom , that encompasses the motor come out ? . I thought about removing it for better cleaning , but didnt want to damage it .
 The pics in the manual dont exactly match my  parts .
I have a Y2K Canadian Edition .  
  Thanks Gar
Yes, the plastic tube with the screens comes out, and that is the source of most of the blockage. You may have gotten some of the garbage out by spraying and cleaning it from the top, but there is no substitue for removing the piece. It may seem impossible to do without damage, but if you use the compressed air trick, it's easy. With the metal housing in your hand, pump motor out so the only thing you have is the housing with the plastic piece inside. If you have long fingers, stick one way down into the plastic and cover the little round opening. If not, you'll have to stick something else down there to plug the opening. With another finger plug one of the metal fuel line tubes. Now place the rubber tipped airgun into the remaining metal fuel line tube, and lightly activate the blow gun, slowly adding pressure 'till she pops apart. For reassembly, I put the o-ring back on the plastic piece, and slide the plastic bit back down into the pump housing. Note the position of the opening when you take it apart so you put it back the same way upon reassembly. There are 3 possibilities but only one is the right way (you'll see what I mean when it is apart). Now I usually slide a plastic handled screwdriver handle first into the plastic tube and push until I can feel the o-ring seat itself. If it is not all the way in place, the pump will not go back together easily. If you go to put the 2 metal housing parts back together and need to hold them together with pressure, youlikely do not have the plastic housing seated in there all the way. Being that you have a 2000 model, you may not even find anything on the screens. My 99 screens are totally plugged after 8,000 miles or so though. Did you find a lot of stuff plugging the little mesh cup screen under the regulator?

Gar
 
 The problems are with the little cup screen and the screen behind the pump motor.  Clean those two and you're back in business for another 7-8,000 miles.

Gar
cleaned as best I could behind the pump motor,does that plastic tube with screens in bottom , that encompasses the motor come out ? . I thought about removing it for better cleaning , but didnt want to damage it .
 The pics in the manual dont exactly match my  parts .
I have a Y2K Canadian Edition .  
  Thanks Gar
 Did you find a lot of stuff plugging the little mesh cup screen under the regulator?

Gar
I'd say the screen was about 90% covered in what looked like wet brown paper bag . I'm assuming this is fuel filter particles.
Thx man....Rub'er.
 
If there was a lot of crapola on the little cup screen, then there is likely a lot of crapola on the screens at the end of the pump motor. You may have gotten some of the stuff out (enough to make the bike work great again even) but I doubt you were able to get that one really clean without removing it. Just do it again in 5000 miles or so.

Gar
 
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