Now I know why the kickstand switch costs more than $50

IG.

Registered
I replaced my kickstand switch recently with the used one from ebay. Not sure if that resolved my intermittent problem when the engine dies for a fraction of a second - need to ride more.

However, I had my old kickstand switch, and I just wanted to know how the heck it works and what's the potential for a failure. It's sealed pretty good with some sort of epoxy glue. So, long story short, I took it apart, breaking whatever was in the epoxy layer - some small electronic circuit came out, a small resistor and a couple of other things.

After scratching my head for a while, I figured out how the thing works. So, here is the deal.

When the switch is being pressed/released, it simply moves a small magnet which stays in it's own mechanical compartment. The electronic part is adjacent to the magnet, but is completely separated with a plalstic piece. Entire electronic portion is sealed with epoxy or something similar, and consists of the magnetic switch and a 28k Ohm resistor on a small circuit board.

The magnetic switch is pretty small - the size of a small resistor, and should be very reliable as it has it's own small contacts sealed within the outer body. The internal contacts are probably a few microns away from each other, and when the magnetic field is present, they close the circuit reporting to the ECU 28k Ohm resistance as opposed to the circuit being open. Oh, yeah, the metal body of the switch is non-magnetic - seems to be an aluminum.

This seems to be a very rilable design (and at least partially explains still outrageous price). I just can't image this thing to fail.

On my last short ride nothing bad happened while on my previous short ride, I think the engine cut off twice.

I am somewhat convinced the kickstand switch is the troublemaker. About a week prior to my recent track day, the bike was cutting off numerous times during a ride. I glued a small piece of metal to the kickstand where it pushes the switch to force the switch pin to go slightly deeper into the switch. The problem disappeared. I rode 160 miles to the track, about 150 miles on the track, and about 160 miles back home without any issues - altogether close to 500 miles. Only, at the end of my trip close to home I felt (maybe) it happened again. So, I ordered one from ebay and replaced it. But, I think it happened a few more times on my recent rides. Don't know, maybe I just rolled the throttle off and I am imagining things. Need to do more riding.
 
Thanks for that internal discription IG. I have often wondered just what made that thing click? I thought maybe it was just a cheap contact switch. Good Thread!
 
I simply removed the entire switch assembly and crimped the two lead wires together. Never had a problem since.
 
I simply removed the entire switch assembly and crimped the two lead wires together. Never had a problem since.[/Qu
Yeh make sure your sitting on the beast when you start from now on could get really ugly if you forget mr green light:poke::poke::lol:
 
I simply removed the entire switch assembly and crimped the two lead wires together. Never had a problem since.[/Qu
Yeh make sure your sitting on the beast when you start from now on could get really ugly if you forget mr green light:poke::poke::lol:

+1. That's why I am a bit leary of doing that. Besides, that one time when my kickstand spring may break, or my gear sensor fails. I'd rather cough up $50+ bucks for the switch if it comes to this.
 
how so? you still have to hold the clutch lever in to start the bike. :thumbsup: does everyone only start the engine with the kickstand down every time? :poke:

Yeh make sure your sitting on the beast when you start from now on could get really ugly if you forget mr green light:poke::poke::lol:
 
The problem is not the switch, it is the kickstand. I had a friend with this problem, and it turns out the hole in the kickstand was worn and when he hit a bump, the kickstand would move off the switch just enough to break the circuit. I checked the hole diameter of the kickstand on the bike and a new one and found the original was a little larger. I replaced the kickstand and the springs and he has not had the problem since. that was 2 years ago. just my .02
 
The problem is not the switch, it is the kickstand. I had a friend with this problem, and it turns out the hole in the kickstand was worn and when he hit a bump, the kickstand would move off the switch just enough to break the circuit. I checked the hole diameter of the kickstand on the bike and a new one and found the original was a little larger. I replaced the kickstand and the springs and he has not had the problem since. that was 2 years ago. just my .02


That is very interesting! I need to take a close look at this sucker. :thumbsup:
 
:poke: well if it goes out again buy a 28k ohm resistor for .02 cents and wire it into the wire harness directly..no more problems:thumbsup:
 
:poke: well if it goes out again buy a 28k ohm resistor for .02 cents and wire it into the wire harness directly..no more problems:thumbsup:

Well, the situation is not that simple. I put the bike on the stand with the kickstand down, in gear, turned the key ON. Put the kickstand up and heard the fuel pump priming. If you put the kickstand down more than about 3" from the highest position (measured at the tip of the kickstand), you hear a clear click, and if you put it back up the fuel pump primes again. So, another words, if the switch is disconnected even for a moment (audiable click of some relay is heard), and immediately reconnected again, the fuel pump primes.

So, I put the kickstand up and start raping it any way possible: shaking and baking, up and down, to the side (it only moves to the outside from normal position). Well, after 5 min I am concluding that no matter how you move the kickstand the kickstand switch stays ON. So, the puzzle continues.

Now, I had another thought not directly related to my problem. You guys are gonna get the kick out of this one. Since the kickstand switch is controlled by a magnet, I decided to stick a magnet next to the kickstand swithc and see if it has any effect. Well, sure enough if you stick a magnet on any of the three outers sides of the kickstand switch (upper, bottom and side), the switch closes the circuit as if the kickstand is up. I don't know whether it's useful, but I guess if I decide to force the switch to be ON all the time, I could simply attach a magnet to the kickstand switch.

Another thought, probably a bit too far fetched. If you carry with you a small magnet, there is an easy way to test whether the kickstand switch works, or if it goes bad and is not working from a very small internal magnet, it can be forced to close by using an external magnet.

Oh, well, my mystery continues. Well, now I am thinking, is it possible that a vibration at a certain rpm may cause that little magnetic bugger to open the circuit momentarily? If it happens again, I will try to pay attention at the rpm.

Or, is it something else alltogether and not a kickstand switch? Dang, can't push knowing the engine can cut off any time.:banghead:
 
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