No Power To Anything Running Off Ignition Switch


Have a unique busa engine setup but hoping can get some help as mostly stock stuff. Was just cruising around and it shutoff. It was so quick my stock gauge cluster still says 30mph and 5k RPMs.

I have good battery and voltage is everywhere except things that are tied to ignition. So, gauge cluster does not power on nor does my Power Commander.

I have checked all fuses I could find (including starter relay fuse), ignition switch, relay I have that is is connected to my ignition switch, and these are good plus removed power commander. The tip over sensor is also good at 62k ohms. Anything else besides maybe bad stock ECU or ignition security 100 ohm bypass not making contact? I have no clue where this resistor might have been put in my harness.

If my application or details above are too confusing, what things would block all power from ignition/key switch from going anywhere?
I have good battery and voltage is everywhere except things that are tied to ignition. So, gauge cluster does not power on

Define "Everywhere". What is it powering but not the dash?

Battery problems have caused many a headache. Even when you think a battery is good it might not be.
Cables can be an issue too. Might try a different battery just for kicks. Almost sounds like you lost a ground somewhere. ???
My TRE has power to it as it comes on and there is good voltage at the heavy gauge wires coming into the starter relay but I think these are more direct battery connections. All my accessories like headlights, fan bypass switch, etc. work but these also are certainly more directly wired.

What is weird is my battery was at 12.9V but coming into my ignition/"On" switch it was dropped down to about 12.4V and even stranger when I connect my ignition switch their is no voltage coming out. The switch is good as I swapped it to run my fan and it does it no problem. This switch is just a hot open/closed switch as I have a separate "button" to start the engine.

I also thought maybe the battery voltage is ok but perhaps a bad cell is making it fall on its face with any load so connected another battery (removed other and replaced, not just put in parallel)

All my grounds run to one frame location or directly to battery and seem good. The frame location is also jumped directly to the battery with heavy gauge wire.

Am leaning towards the kickstand sensor/bypass that I have at this moment but its still just a guess ... I have t try and find this now.
So you have voltage present on the input side of the switch, no voltage on the output (load) side of the switch. The switch is either open or you have a direct short to ground. Unless you are trying to read voltage across the switch input and output pins, which will result in a voltage reading across an open switch and no reading across a closed switch (if the switch is good).
It ended up being a flakey ATO blade style inline fuse holder on a main 30 amp power line I had. It was one that was added to my modified harness. Pulled the fuse to check it and it was good and luckily had ignition turned on so when putting it back in noticed the power come on again briefly and then back off. There was not much tension on the posts at all to make contact.

I had one of these style inline fuse holders also go bad in my toy hauler recently too giving me intermitted issues and headaches (that one was shorting out internally). Going to a marine style resettable breaker from now on instead ...