No more synthetic oil change interval debate for me now





Stilslo

Registered
I did the 600 mile oil change, than again at 1,500, switched to synthetic at 3000 miles. I was expecting to do 5k intervals with the synthetic. I got home from work today and jumped on the bike to run errands and noticed my shifts were very clunky and the shifting into 1st from neautral was difficult again. When I got back home I checked the oil....dark black. That was at 6,600 miles. Seems strange to me, but I guess 3k it is, even with synthetic. I use mobil 1 and the bike is not a cruiser, I run her hard. How often do you guys running synthetic change your oil?
 

SKnight

Registered
You don't want to know but a whole lot further than 3600 miles. And on Mobil 1 Racing 4T. Never had that issue. Would be worth it to see how it does in another 4000 miles.
 

Big E

Donating Member
Registered
Oil change at the beginning of the year. Depending on how many miles I ride, she may get an additional change. Mobil one 15/50 automotive.
 

card16969

Registered
I did the 600 mile oil change, than again at 1,500, switched to synthetic at 3000 miles. I was expecting to do 5k intervals with the synthetic. I got home from work today and jumped on the bike to run errands and noticed my shifts were very clunky and the shifting into 1st from neautral was difficult again. When I got back home I checked the oil....dark black. That was at 6,600 miles. Seems strange to me, but I guess 3k it is, even with synthetic. I use mobil 1 and the bike is not a cruiser, I run her hard. How often do you guys running synthetic change your oil?
remember your motor is still breaking in it gets better with time
 

sixpack577

Top Gun
Registered
Busa is a clunky shiftin bastid anyway.
Aftermarket rearsets make shifts smoother too, as the shifter arm is bearing mounted instead of bushings.
Same thing for rear brake.
 

Stilslo

Registered
Busa is a clunky shiftin bastid anyway.
Aftermarket rearsets make shifts smoother too, as the shifter arm is bearing mounted instead of bushings.
Same thing for rear brake.
I noticed a lot of improvement in the shifting after the first couple oil changes. Weird that it got day 1 clunky again.
 

SKnight

Registered
And like Card said it's still breaking in too. And who knows, you could have had a bad shifting day where it just seemed clunky. I know I've done it.
 

tjdobb

Donating Member
Registered
Amzoil full syn once a year never a problem, and my 2011 shifted smooth right out of the door, I lucked out as my 2006 was a hard shifter!
 

BusaBret

Almost......
Donating Member
Registered
I am changing the oil in mine this weekend. I tried Mobile 1 4t my last change. I am going back to Amsoil. It shifted better and ran smoother with Amsoil. It may be in my head but that is my take.

From my dunce stool :cookoo:
 

card16969

Registered
give it some time, honestly i wont even switch to synthetic till 5k cause of break in and i dont know just my personal opinion regular oil seems to break things in better but like i said thats just my opinion
 

The Big Red One

Registered
You don't want to know but a whole lot further than 3600 miles. And on Mobil 1 Racing 4T. Never had that issue. Would be worth it to see how it does in another 4000 miles.
I also run Mobil 1 Racing 4T, and change it every 6-7000 miles depending with no issues :thumbsup:
 

1busa

Registered
I run mobile 1 synthetic as well and i change my oil every 2500 to 3000 miles. It mite seem a bit excessive, but so can rebuilding an engine :whistle:
as far as the clunky shifting goes thats a busa man :laugh: not the prettiest or the quietest but feared. Buy a Factory Pro Evo shift kit and that should smoothen her out a bit
 
I change my synthetic at 2000 miles!

Yes maybe synthetic oil doesnt break down as quick as non synthetics do.
All bikes breath air and in the air you have debri. I dont care how great your air filter is
or your oil filter debri gets into the engine and mixes with the oil. Also the clutch fibers will
also get in with the oil. Debri, clutch fiber dust will create engine resistance and enternal wear which acts
like sand paper putting small miscroscopic grooves on the enternal engine parts..
Even more so since our bikes have ram air tubes sucking air we will suck in more road debri
then a car or motorcycle with out ram air ducts.
Debri in your oil is what causes engine wear.

So with all that being said, I will change my synthetic oil at 2000 miles with fresh CLEAN gold colored oil nowing that I drained out the debri and clutch fiber particles....
 

SKnight

Registered
I also run Mobil 1 Racing 4T, and change it every 6-7000 miles depending with no issues :thumbsup:
Don't tell anyone but I changed mine at 10K miles. There's a local truck shop that has an oil analysis lab on site and even at 10K there wasn't significant change over data from 2K miles. I couldn't bring myself to go further than that though. I had the cam cover off at 38K (IIRC, it was somewhere around there.) to check the valves, it was clean as a whistle and all the valves were dead in the middle of spec except two exhaust valves that were .001" on the tight side of spec. No issues at 47K when she disappeared. Proper break in and really good oil is the key.
 




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