No increase in voltage @5,000 + rpm; bad stator?

[Lucid]

It'll I think the reg/rec is working, it keeps it at a steady 12.9v no matter what rev. But at over 5k, aren't I supposed to be getting 13.6ish volts if the stator is working? Cus I'm steady at 12.9, then back on idle I'm at about 13.1-13.2.
13.0v with bike off.

Ballistic battery btw.

 

[dadofthree]

Is the ballistic battery a sealed lead acid battery ? If the battery is good, with the headlights set to high beam you should read somewhere close to 13.6 VDC @ 5K R/Min

I thought you had all this down.

 

[dadofthree]

Lithium Poly ?

 

[Lucid]

I know, I thought I had it too but the Ballistic is lithium ferrous which is throwing me off a bit. I still think the stator is bad, just don't want to admit it and hoping this is normal for this type of battery. :-/

 

[Lucid]

Now I'm thinking it's just something with the starting system, which is making the starter crank over and over, drawing down the battery each time until it kills it. Had the ballistic fully charged today and there was plenty of juice there to crank it, but it still cranked like 7-8 times, then I turned the key off and back on, and still took about 7-8 cranks and finally started. So I'm thinking I'll have to fix the starting system first, then the battery situation will be okay. Any ideas would be great on the starting system. 06 motor, new plugs. I'll pull the starter out and check the teeth today.

 

[RussellJ]

13.7 is where mine is at. The voltage will DECREASE when you rev the bike. Yes DECREASE. It's may go up .1 but it will not increase much above 13.7. The only increase when revving the bike will be the voltage on the stature output that you need to check per the manual. I believe its 50V at 5k rpm.

Sent from my HTC EVO 4G using Tapatalk.

 

[RussellJ]

Id check the stature output to start with then ohm out the rectifier

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[Lucid]

Finally checked stator, fine. Checked reg/rec, fine. Which means it's in the wiring. (brand new ballistic battery was fine)

Traced all wiring, checked continuity all around and everything checked out. Last idea was the + wire from the main fuse, which is directly linked with the reg/rec via harnesses. I remember I made a new main + wire when I put the battery in the tail section. The wire was one size smaller gauge than stock, but I figured "hell, I'm sure Suzuki made it a size bigger as overkill." Nope. Replaced that with a fatter gauge and all seems to be well now. Head and tail lights are steady now (no flicker), starts much faster (2-3 cranks), and it's much higher volts at the battery than before. (I'm at 13.3-4 now at 5k). Should be good to go now. Lesson: Don't skimp.