No Electrical Power- Shorted part removed- Now what?

The Gribbler

Registered
I threw the bike back together after checking the valve clearances (all good:thumbsup:) and turned the key. Here is the order of what happened next-

1-Turned the key, back lights came on, gauges did their little dance, and the fuel pump did its thing.
2-Hit the stop/ run. Put it to run. Everything is still fine. Pulled the clutch in.
3-Hit the starter button. Lights turn off starter doesnt try to turn the motor. No power now, nothing.

-No fuses are popped
-I had continuity between the red battery cable (disconnected) and the frame.
-I hunted down what was grounding and it was the right hand switch cluster (run/ stop and starter switches). I disconnected it and now there is no continuity between the red cable and the frame.

I turn the key and there is still no power to the gauges or lights or anything.

What would make this happen without blowing a fuse? :banghead:
 
Did you check the main fuse at the starter relay?
 
They were all coming on before you messed with the switch on the right bar? Start there. When you get the lights, gauges and pump back, take the switch behind the clutch lever OFF and connect the two wires together. If the bike starts, your clutch switch needs to be replaced or do what I did and just conjoin the wires permanently (WARNING: DOING THIS WILL ALLOW YOUR BIKE TO START IN ANY GEAR! YOU MUST BE CAREFUL WHEN STARTING YOUR BIKE!). That stupid switch is a POS, I've changed 3 since I put my blade levers on and decided that I'd be better off doing what I did with a small red car fuse.

DO NOT DO THIS IF YOU NORMALLY START YOUR BIKE WHILE IN GEAR AND MIGHT FORGET THE CLUTCH!!
 
They were all coming on before you messed with the switch on the right bar? Start there. When you get the lights, gauges and pump back, take the switch behind the clutch lever OFF and connect the two wires together. If the bike starts, your clutch switch needs to be replaced or do what I did and just conjoin the wires permanently (WARNING: DOING THIS WILL ALLOW YOUR BIKE TO START IN ANY GEAR! YOU MUST BE CAREFUL WHEN STARTING YOUR BIKE!). That stupid switch is a POS, I've changed 3 since I put my blade levers on and decided that I'd be better off doing what I did with a small red car fuse.

DO NOT DO THIS IF YOU NORMALLY START YOUR BIKE WHILE IN GEAR AND MIGHT FORGET THE CLUTCH!!

Thanks man I will keep it in mind. I usually start it in neutral so it shouldnt be an issue.
 
Problem found!:thumbsup:

It was the ignition switch where the key goes. The only fuse before it is the main fuse which is 30 amp so I'm not too surprised that it didn't pop. Now I just gotta price one out. Hopefully its not integrated with the locking mechanism itself...

-First, I isolated the part itself by first removing the fan and fuel fuses, keeping power/ continuity away from the rest of the circuits. The battery side of both fuses still had continuity to ground. The component side did not.

-Second, I disconnected the ignition, turn signal, and headlight low fuses. I had continuity to ground on the switch side of the fuses. The component side did not.

-It is safe to say that the ground is the ignition/ key switch or at the very least is a grounded wire on that circuit.

Thanks guys for the suggestions!
 
I have a spare ignition switch (with key) if you want to borrow it so you can prove that's the issue. I had it in my box of Bash parts just in case someone lost their keys at the bash, we could have their weekend of riding by swapping out the ignition switch. Just hit me up and I will send it your way, just send it back when you verify that was the problem.
 
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