Nitrous pre requisites?

Discussion in 'Nitrous' started by Boss9oh4, Mar 23, 2015.

  1. Boss9oh4

    Boss9oh4 Registered

    Contests won:
    I opened and looked at a dozen threads today.... But I really didn't find any with all the info I wanted.

    I'm a first time nitrous user, prospectively anyway, and I am wondering what, if anything needs to be done before I purchase a kit.

    I've read a billion stories of random parts breaking, from Pistons melting To valve springs simply not taking it. I'm not a competitive racer by any means, and this will probably only be used once or twice a year when I do make runs to the strip with my friends, so I won't be going extreme.
    I'm thinking a small bump. 20 shot tops, maybe just 10-15...... I'm riding a 2014 busa, full ex, short stacks, filter, clutch mod, sprockets, and pcV..... What else would you veterans recommend to a novice like me in the art of spray?
  2. frisbee

    frisbee GODSPEED RACING Donating Member Registered

    Contests won:
    Tacoma ,Wa.
    I have an 04 that has a 30 shot. never had any problems only a few bottles though it. Now its bored and still a 30 shot with no problems. I had the NOS put on when the bike had 25k and now it has 55k probably used 10 bottles worth of NOS. Not a lot of chances . If you are going to drag you will need a air shifter so you don't spray while shifting manually. You will also need something like an MPS box to add fuel when shooting
  3. Tony Nitrous

    Tony Nitrous Registered

    Contests won:
    Brisbane Australia
    Why do you need a air shifter? I never have.
    Mount the micro switch on the throttle body's so the nitrous is only live on full throttle,
    that's when most folk will be using / wanting it.

    You don't leave a bike on full throttle for shifts normaly!
    This system works fine and is standard on some kits.
  4. Tony Nitrous

    Tony Nitrous Registered

    Contests won:
    Brisbane Australia
    Something I wrote a while back for a Guy with a 1200 Bandit with carbs using a wet system.....

    "Many folk mount the bottles wrong.
    Nitrous is stored as a liquid and if the bottle has an internal siphon tube
    or not, the pick up needs to be from the lowest most rear point, so it
    doesn't allow the liquid to "climb" the bottle and get away from the
    internal pick up point on acceleration.
    Normaly folk mount the bottles vertical then lean them foreword.
    most show bikes don't. Bottles lay flat or leaning backwards are wrong.

    With a "wet" system a good test is to turn everything on, arm the the
    system / make it live but leave the bottle OFF. Drive up the road and use it!
    It should choke the motor with too much fuel. This is a good test. Too much
    fuel just chokes the motor, nitrous and no fuel is real nasty and harmful.
    Doing this proves you have fuel at the foggers and its safe to gas it.

    The easiest way to explain nitrous is its liquid air !
    Anyone can put fuel in a motor, a 5 year old kid with a washing up bottle
    can squirt fuel in, the hard bit is getting the air in. That's what Turbo's,
    Superchargers, big cams and carbs try and do. Nitrous Carries a huge
    amount of oxygen so you can chuck in huge amounts of fuel and still burn it.

    Nitrous is bought and measured by weight. Traditionally Lb's and Oz.
    I have a flat set of kitchen scales that look like a small dinner plate.
    They will fit inside my jacket or in a rucksack if I need too.
    They also measure in both grams as well as pounds and ounces.
    Remember the weight of an empty bottle (most are marked) and when you
    get a refill you know what your getting. I've also used them to check bottles
    after a couple of runs at the drags or a run to the pub to see what I still have
    left in the bottle.

    Most engines can take a moderate hit, once you start to get keen,
    the first two things to watch are you'll want a good clutch, and its better
    to have forged pistons and not cast.

    Nitrous comes out REAL cold. The plastic lines that come with some kits
    work fine, but if your getting through a LOT of gas I've had them become
    brittle and crack. You can buy braided, I just used new ones the same.

    I like the simple NOS brand kits. You get a micro switch to fit to the carbs
    or throttle body's so it only comes in on full throttle. I wired mine into a
    flick switch on the bars that turned the horn button into the nitrous button.
    One I flicked the switch the nitrous came in / out only when I was on full
    throttle and only when I held the horn button in. That way I could launch
    Without it in 1st, but hit the horn button in 2nd or 3rd depending on how
    I'd geared the bike"
  5. Blackmax

    Blackmax Registered

    Contests won:
    Airmont NY
    I do , I keep the bike wide open and hit the shift button and it kills for 90milsec and comes back on wide open
  6. Gixx1300R

    Gixx1300R Registered

    Contests won:
    First thing you will need to to have the ECU reflashed for the injectors to spray 50/50 in order to use nitrous on a Gen 2.


Share This Page