NEVER shift before redline for all out acceleratio

Even if you don't want to dyno your bike, the liklihood is that your shift points will be almost the same as a stock bike. Get someone to post their baseline dyno and it should be pretty quick to analyze...

Anyway, I made some pictures, so I'll try to explain this as clearly as possible. Vertical axis is ft-lbs of torque, Horizontal axis is engine RPM.

Lets say you have this stock curve (and I know this doesn't look like the busa's curve, we'll get there):


If we want to calculate the shift point for this curve for the 1 to 2 shift for the busa (1st gear is 2.615:1, second is 1.937:1), we need only stretch (compress) the picture by (ratio 2/ratio 1) vertically, and by (ratio 2/ratio 1) horizontally, and then overlay the pictures. Stretching horizontally means you're matching the RPM scales of the pictures to the speed that the bike is moving, while stretching vertically means you're matching the scales of the pictures to the torque that is being put out at the crank. After stretching, we get something like this:

Then we can simply overlay them and see where they intersect:


So if this was your torque curve, your optimal shift point would be a little between 8000 and 9000 RPM. The true optimal would be a little higher because the vehicle speed drops between shifts.


Now, with a curve that looks more like the busa (at least at the end of the curve, which is the important part here):

The torque peak is later and doesn't fall off as much. In this case, the stretched image (still for the busa's 1-2 shift) looks like:


Now when I overlay the images, you can see that the curves never cross. In this case you would want to shift as late as possible (redline) to accelerate the fastest. I would guess that if you analyzed the busa's torque curves you would find this to be the case.




It is also important to note that to perfectly calculate this, a dyno would need to be run in each gear, with the dyno's resistance equal to the force required to accelerate the bike itself. Changes in the speed of accereration offset the dyno results, because the engine is also accelerating its own reciprocating parts.
 
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(Mr Brown @ Nov. 05 2006,19:57) Preload the shifter. When you see the tach go thru 10,5, let off the throttle just a little, and it will go into 2nd. As soon as you lt off the throttle, hammer it again and reload the shifter. Repeat as needed. The front wheel doesn't need to be on the ground as long as you're going straight.........
So in layman's terms its at around 10k RPM for a stock busa?
 
*edited- to remove foot out of mouth on bitabur's post. it was miss interpereted.


usairhashmi, you will have to figure out at the track how many rpm you drop between shifts. if say you only drop 1k rpm between shifts, then I would shift right below redline after reviewing a stock hayabusa dyno the busa looks like it peaks around 9800 rpm, and is pretty flat before and after that, with a assumed rpm drop of 1k rpm I would shift the bike to 10.4 to 10.5 rpm, now I would also becareful with this as most stock tachs are not accurate and tend to be off by a couple hundred rpm, therefore I suggest installing a shift light and program it to that rpm.

hope this helps
 
You should try actually reading what I posted before saying some of it is incorrect. The info I posted doesn't have anything to do with HP, only torque curves.
 
woops, my bad bitabur! I apologize I saw two curves and assumed. my bust.

I do agree with you, if time and money permits, a dyno of each gear to find best shift rpm would be best.
 
Thank you
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(Mr. Anderson @ Nov. 05 2006,22:54) I suggest installing a shift light and program it to that rpm.
You want to program it to come on a couple of hundred rpm before, you need time to react to it.......
 
Given how close the gear ratios are and how flat that torque curve is, I suspect you'd be best off always shifting as late as possible.
 
sportrider.com has a nice dyno graphs section.
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I too, would ignore those saying the REV LIMITER is the location of peak HP. All the graphs, track riders and Suzuki Engineers [gotta love those guys] say otherwise
 
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When the valves float or you hit the limiter it's over ( meaning power not engine failure). Make sure you shift before either of those events. 10,4/5 sounds like it for stock bikes. Thanx all.  
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There are so many great threads on this board! I was just talking to my buddy about shifting at or before the redline. this came at a convenient time! I am sure that there will come a time when i will want to try to squeeze every ounce of juice from this bike, but for now i still get goosebumps getting to freeway speeds faster than... a speeding bullet!
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